[Walt Gifford]

Mounting a Rotax is always a job but no reason it would be harder on a CRG.

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[Walt Gifford]

The inner holes are for a wide open track with no tight turns. If steering feels heavy try more caster.

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[Walt Gifford]

The brake rod adjustment will change where in the travel not how fast. Most use the top hole on the master cylinder arm but you might try the next hole down although I can’t believe this would be necessary. You might need new brake pads or shims for worn pads or it could be the wrong rotor assuming you have all the air bled out of the system.

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[Walt Gifford]

I remember my mom and dad debating about buying me a $15 metal tennis racket so I could be on the high school team as I kept breaking the $4 wooden ones I bought with my allowance. I felt no pressure to perform but was bumped off the team because I was beating the rich kids. After that I lettered in track. Nothing was said but I hope they didn’t feel the money was wasted. I still have that (Sears aluminum) racket.

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[Walt Gifford]

Maybe we need a race where you don’t sign a release form.

[Walt Gifford]

I think it’s great someone is thinking of this stuff but that bumper system will evaporate faster than spit on a griddle when it hits the USA. What ever happened to the system where the front bumper pops off when you hit too hard? People started safety wiring the clamps and then business as usual.

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[Walt Gifford]

Condition is everything could be between $800 and $2000.

[Walt Gifford]

Would you ship it to NJ (08302) for $500?

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[Walt Gifford]

[quote quote=27745]We have to be getting trolled.[/quote]

+1

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[Walt Gifford]

Still don’t know what “insert arc” means.

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[Walt Gifford]

If you clean it off then run it a little you might see where it’s coming from.

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[Walt Gifford]

I had one where the holes on the shoes got punched out and it broke one of the posts. Repaired the post and made bronze bushings and kept it going for a while longer.

Just take the drum off and have a look.

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[Walt Gifford]

Any of the major brands 2008 or newer. Just make sure it’s not too scraped off on the bottom and that you can get rebuild parts for the brakes. CRG Road Rebel is a good one.

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[Walt Gifford]

If it happens instantly as soon as you enter a turn I would think carb. It would take a while for air bubbles to get up the line. Still good to change that line every now and then.

[Walt Gifford]

Turn the tires around on the rims between races and switch them left to right during the race day.

If you want to “prep” a tire don’t mess around with a bunch of weird crap. Use Trac Tac blue tire wash to clean then Trac Tac SST to soften couple of days before the race.

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[Walt Gifford]

[quote quote=26170]I see a fairly small flatline around 8200 RPM before the RPMs start to go up.[/quote]

That there is yer stall speed. I would bump it up to 8500 then 8800 then 9100 and see if it has any effect on seat of the pants feel or lap times. If not back it off again and save some clutch lining.

RLV use to put out max rpm and clutch stall suggestions for their pipes. Might be worth a phone call.

I think 8800 is pretty much it for the new sportsman pipe then just concentrate on keeping the throttle open and the front wheels straight.

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[Walt Gifford]

I didn’t mention drill blocks because I don’t see the need but then I use to drill holes for a living. You should still file 2 flats and debur if you want the nylon to stay in the nut so I just drill on the flat. There are many ways to do the same thing.

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[Walt Gifford]

If you plot rpm vs time you’ll see the line go flat horizontal for a short time then go up, that’s your stall speed.

For where to set it you need to know the peak torque of your engine. Fortunately the KT100 has been around forever so we know it’s somewhere in the mid 8k area for the new sportsman pipe set up and low 10k range for full pipe (L2).

The thinking is to get the clutch locked up 200 rpm before max torque is applied to the drive system. This helps the clutch stay locked as maximum twisting force is applied to it. If the lock up is after peak torque the twisting force will make the clutch slip longer and build heat which is wasted energy.

You see all different numbers being discussed because the engine comes up to peak torque then there’s a slight drop off then it rises to another peak torque so some try to ride the second wave. IMO this pushes the limits of your clutch for no benefit however, if you have a track with no tight turns and you’re only on the slip very briefly you might consider it to keep the rpms ups. For most tracks the lower number is best for clutch life and good pulling power off the turns.

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[Walt Gifford]

My experience has been that a coil will cut out all together or work intermittently usually cutting out or breaking up when it gets hot after a few laps. I don’t know if it’s the best way but you could put on a new coil and see if it goes faster. Not sure about K80 but a KT100 is a 10:1 ratio primary to secondary coil on a resistance test.

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[Walt Gifford]

My experience is that if a bolt wants to seize, anti-seize doesn’t help much but most things these days are made well enough not to worry. If you think it’s going to lock up just put it in real slow so it doesn’t build up heat. I use anti-seize on engine studs to cut down on corrosion. Most aren’t in karting long enough to worry about that lol.

Something that makes wheel nuts and hub pinch bolts easier for me is a torque wrench.

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[Walt Gifford]

There are basically two kinds of karts, water cooled and air cooled. Water cooled is very expensive fast and punishing. The big money makers push this class on unsuspecting newbies so get ready for the hype.

Air cooled is less money, less power and much more enjoyable imho. Some of the best drivers I’ve ever raced with are in the lower powered classes. See if both tracks have an LO206, Yamaha KT100, clone, world formula, KPV or animal class. You could be on the track with good used equipment for under 2k.

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[Walt Gifford]

Then you will have to get a regular high tensile strength bolt and learn to drill a hole without breaking the drill bit, dress the threads so they don’t cut into the nylock and install a cotter pin so it doesn’t snag on anything.

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[Walt Gifford]

I like the idea of how fast can you adapt.

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[Walt Gifford]

I always replace the plastic tank with those aluminum ones from comet. The sight glass is tygon fuel tubing and doesn’t leak just leave it a little long if you replace it because they shrink up a tiny bit. Put the mounting bolts up from the bottom and double nut so you don’t crush the rubber grommets and you’ll have a nice shock mounted tank. I also get one of those fuel nipples with a flange and put it in the cap then a small fuel filter on top keeps fuel from splashing. You’ll need a long neck funnel to fill the tank on certain ones if the steering shaft is in the way.

Hope that helps,
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[Walt Gifford]

There haven’t been too many advancements in the last 25 years. For all the fancy looking stuff it’s still just a steel tube frame and 4 rubber tires. For $600 if it has good brakes buy it and put a new graphics kit on it.

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