[Walt Gifford]

That tiny piece of metal is chrome plated European music wire.

Seriously you can drill a hole for a cotter pin where the slot for the clip is. Just file a flat so you can get the drill started and try to stay on center. Don’t drill too big.

Insane prices, welcome to karting.

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[Walt Gifford]

Allot of the hubs I’ve seen don’t have enough metal around the stud to make a repair like that viable. Also do you have the ability to get the stud repair perfectly square and on center or are you going to free hand it? Helicoils are not the best imho and I’ve seen allot of them done badly. I use solid inserts when there is enough metal to put them in. I’ve custom made double diameter studs in some cases but, you have to be careful, hubs get highly stressed. I moved away from magnesium parts early on when I saw many cracked components and striped out bolt holes on different karts. I would suggest buying 2 new aluminum hubs.

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[Walt Gifford]

If the exhaust hole in the engine has a recess it needs a gasket. If not the gasket is already in there. Sometimes the gasket gets smashed down and carboned up so much it looks like part of the cylinder.

The springs from header to pipe should go from top to bottom in a spiral. If they go straight across they can vibrate and fly off.

There should be some kind of pipe mounting stem coming off the left bearing area. You use this to mount a pipe cradle hopefully with some kind of flexible rubber grommets.

You can stretch the cradle springs by grabbing them with vise grips or they make special spring hooks with a handle.
Hope that helps,
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[Walt Gifford]

Just drive in first place and you won’t get all that sand.

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[Walt Gifford]

The best thing is to have a seat that conforms to your side. For me the typical euro seats put pressure in one small spot so, it doesn’t matter what kind of rib belt you use it’s gonna get through. The Ribtect seat/belt system is pretty much it. If there’s anything better it’s not going to be that much better but you’ve got to get the right size.

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[Walt Gifford]

[quote quote=25292]This stuff is awesome: http://www.kemmlerproducts.com/
[/quote]

Which shocktech gel do you use, what thickness? Can you glue that stuff to a seat?

Thanks,
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[Walt Gifford]

Ribtech and deepseat don’t hold you in for a flip. It depends on how you flip, you can stay in the seat even with a tillet.

[Walt Gifford]

When the carb is set to race on the track it won’t idle because it’s too rich. You need to start it then GO. If you want to run it on the stand you have to keep revving it.

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[Walt Gifford]

Do you have a cylinder hone, bore gauge, micrometer and know how to use them? Maybe you could just put a top ring in it and keep going.

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[Walt Gifford]

I had a tire that was way out one time so, I think it’s worth checking before you get all the way to the track.

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[Walt Gifford]

Slow down for the turns. Sounds dumb but allot of guys don’t know how to do this and end up wrecking. Start every race in the back and let the pack get a good gap going into turn one. Then after the first lap have fun racing the back markers. When the leaders come around to pass you don’t get out of their way just hold a steady line. Run your carb a little on the rich side so you don’t stick your piston. Write your blood type on the outside of your kart suit.

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[Walt Gifford]

Would you trade the pull starter for a crank half?

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[Walt Gifford]

The clutch chain and sprockets are something that has to be kept pretty fresh so buying small parts of the drive train is like buying one new tire at a time for your car, the others will wear it out faster. Get everything new and take care of it the best you can will save money in the long run. The clutch should only get burned once per track session coming off the grid so nail it and it will lock up quick then keep speed up above clutch stall while on the track.

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[Walt Gifford]

[quote quote=24794]much better than Walt has described…[/quote]

Just curious if you’ve ever raced in an arrive and drive league with 360 bumpers. Not show up and rent a track session but a league. Some of the hardest hits I’ve ever taken in karting.

There are 2 kinds of karts in LO206, gold cup (4 stroke) full bodywork with 50″ rear track and manufactures cup (2 stroke) with CIK bodywork and 55″ rear track. Some places allow both and some only allow CIK karts. If you get a CIK kart you can use it to race Yamaha or TAG at a later time. When you go to the kart shop don’t let them talk you into Rotax, you can thank me later.

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[Walt Gifford]

If you had a tall gear and drove it easy the clutch was slipping allot. You cooked it. btw parking lot is recipe for flat tire.

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[Walt Gifford]

You’ll get bang for your buck alright, they’ll bang the hell out of you. My advise get your own kart and race with pro drivers asap before those crappy arrive and drive into you league spoils your enthusiasm.

Check the local tracks and see if you can get into an LO206 program. Lots of good used karts out there.

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[Walt Gifford]

Let me get this straight, The package broke open (BS) and everything fell out except one brake rotor(BS) then all the stuff that fell out got lost(BS) and the post office found the broken box and it happened to be next to some stray electrical wiring that just happened to be laying around (total BS) so they packed it in there (more BS) and sent it to you? Excuse me, I don’t think so. If USPS has to fix or repack something there is a notice on the package somewhere. If you can, stop payment or, do a charge back asap.

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[Walt Gifford]

DO NOT spin a head in the drill press. There is a good chance it will come flying out. Those chucks are held in with a taper not good at taking side loads or vibrations of any kind.

You can scrape the carbon off with a small pen knife, just don’t dig in too hard or you’ll scratch the aluminum.

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[Walt Gifford]

[quote quote=24582]Walt, Can you please explain?[/quote]

I was jokin’ you can win with almost anything. You don’t need magic chromalloy. Get any kart and put in the seat time to tune yourself to it. Just don’t forget the fun factor.

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[Walt Gifford]

Ideally the chassis should be made no longer than 6 months before the race.

[Walt Gifford]

[quote quote=24494]If you have a friend with a clutched kart, you could always get them to give you a push[/quote]

ROFLMAO

Steve, you’re probably just flooding it, try cranking the low needle down to 1 turn for starting.

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[Walt Gifford]

[quote quote=24313]What you have there is a separation between the steel sleeve and the aluminum case.[/quote]

Now I’m seeing what you’re saying but I can’t imagine how that would happen unless that bearing pocket is severely warped or the hole it’s in was totally out of round.

Did something move while the pocket for the liner was being machined but they put the liner in anyway. If that’s the case then it’s been that way since day one. Or, wow does the engine hammer the aluminum that bad?

I would say it has to have the pocket machined out and on center for a slightly bigger liner that will have to be custom made.

Anyway Pete, if you heat the case your other little bearings might want to float off their seats and if you’re thinking on it, removing the steel liner in the main bearing pocket will be very hard with just heat.

You need one of two people Muller Machine or me and (lol) I’m busy.

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[Walt Gifford]

If it’s not deep you could ball grind the ends of the crack to help keep it from spreading. can you see it on the outside? hard to advise without seeing it.

[Walt Gifford]

Not sure I can see it in that pic. Looks like the case was re-pocketed, maybe that’s why. If it’s just a small crack in a thick part of the case and it doesn’t go through to cause a leak it will be ok for a while longer. If the crack is into the bearing pocket I would think it might spin the bearing when it gets hot.

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[Walt Gifford]

I actually have a set of these for sale if you want a spare.

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