lol, I like the ad. I guess British gray iron is better than Italian iron (which is also gray like all iron).
So how does that work, do these special pads absorb lots of heat so the light weight rotor doesn’t warp? That would explain why they glaze over and stop working in 12 laps.
Do they make 5″ tires? All I found was 6″ tires that needed chemicals and cooking to make them work. Also they are low rubber like a tire that’s been cut down.
Probably something slightly stronger than 6061-T6 like 2011-T8 or 2024-T4 for it’s free machining properties but, who knows? When in doubt I would use 7075-T651 because it’s zbest.
You don’t have to reverse bleed the brakes. Ven05 is the easiest brake system to bleed I’ve ever seen. Just make the bleed screw the highest point in the system and don’t let the MC reservoir empty out and suck air when you lift off the pedal. Fill it as you lift if you have to, lift off the pedal slowly, your MC seals are working in reverse you don’t want them leaking air, give the fluid time to get past the little holes. When you open the bleed screw and press the pedal, close the bleed screw before you run out of pedal travel. Use dot4 fluid. If you use the wrong fluid it will work at first then the seals will soften and cause problems. Did you remember the Oring between the caliper halves? That would explain why one side is moving more than the other.
Sorry you bought that seat, I almost quit karting because that style seat puts pressure on one particular spot. I still have scar tissue on my back bone because 2 of my ribs getting pounded from just driving smooth so take it serious. get rid of that seat and get a Deep Seat or a Rib Tech that fits properly.
