[Robert Lawson]

Chad,

check here: http://cometkartsales.com/Fuel-Tanks-c-969/

They have different size/shape/capacity aluminum tanks online.

With a phone call you may be able to have them make one to order for you as well.

Good Luck,

RPM

[Walt Gifford]

I always replace the plastic tank with those aluminum ones from comet. The sight glass is tygon fuel tubing and doesn’t leak just leave it a little long if you replace it because they shrink up a tiny bit. Put the mounting bolts up from the bottom and double nut so you don’t crush the rubber grommets and you’ll have a nice shock mounted tank. I also get one of those fuel nipples with a flange and put it in the cap then a small fuel filter on top keeps fuel from splashing. You’ll need a long neck funnel to fill the tank on certain ones if the steering shaft is in the way.

Hope that helps,
Gif

[Charles Kaneb]

What mounting scheme are you using for the tank? Is it wedged tightly over a large area into the chassis rails and secured by only one bolt? How’s it isolated from the chassis – exclusively pushing through rubber washers, or is it steel-to-steel-to-plastic? Is it on the floorpan, or vibrating next to it and hitting 10,000 times per lap? See if a couple pieces of Silly Putty between the tank sides and any metal it’s close to help.

What are you using for fuel/oil?  E10 street gas, 100 oxygenated unleaded race gas, 100LL avgas, 98 or 110 leaded race gas shouldn’t damage a tank. If you’re leaving methanol in it overnight it’ll rapidly age an HDPE/HDPP plastic  tank, same goes for copper-containing alloys of aluminum or magnesium. Hydrogen peroxide, nitromethane, and 1, 4 dioxin are hard on plastic containers and if you’re using any of them please stop before you poison someone or blast yourself to Jupiter the long way.

 

 

 

[lynn haddock]

I guess I better consider making my tanks from 1/2″– 4130……………

[Author]

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