[Walt Gifford]

Broken wrist pin? like it broke in half? That motor must have been a box full of twisted shrapnel.

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[Walt Gifford]

The L2 pipe is allot quieter than a 4 hole can, just sayin’.

http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=9700

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[Walt Gifford]

IDK do you think karts are getting a little over blown with $7,000 power plants @ 67HP?

Thanks for the info. I think I’ll just keep rockin’ my KT100.

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[Walt Gifford]

What’s the buy in to retro fit a gas kart with electric including charger, extra battery ect? has anyone put together a package?

Thanks,
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[Walt Gifford]

Ring gap can be .012″.

[Walt Gifford]

To be honest I know zip about electric karts. What kind of battery do they use and what does it cost? lithium-ion probably.

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[Walt Gifford]

[quote quote=71813] I know Comet Kart Sales charges $200 for labor. If the crank got knocked out of alignment it’d obviously be a little more.[/quote]

Talking about replacing the rod so the crank’s coming apart. Comet and others told me 300-350 labor for a full rebuild which seems to be par for the course. I’m not knockin’ anybody making a buck, I’m just asking.

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[Walt Gifford]

Yeah, I’ve been calling around and that’s about right. The amount of money businesses have to charge to keep the doors open these days is just crazy. I’ve been charging my buddies 450 total and to think kart shops get parts wholesale and I don’t. Glad I build my own, that labor charge is a big expense.

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[Walt Gifford]

Mixing gas, noise and smoke are the charm of kart racing.

Wait until you have a lippo explosion that burns someone in half.

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[Walt Gifford]

Use “AN” type washer (smaller OD) with a grade 8 rating and not “SAE” type washers. The thickness can be anything but try to use thicker washers so they don’t crumble.

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[Walt Gifford]

Maybe it’s just running real rich? What are your carb settings?

Could be the ignition is too far back.

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[Walt Gifford]

Where in the north east?

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[Walt Gifford]

If it won’t come apart tap it back together to line it up and try again.

When you put the new bearings in the hot case, use something to hold them down for a minute or they might squeeze back out a little.

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[Walt Gifford]

Getting the right seat is the biggest pain in karting. Go with loose bottom rather than loose top. You can always readjust your bottom on the straight but a loose top will hammer your ribs.

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[Walt Gifford]

[quote quote=50704]You don’t need to add grit then flush it out, just use this:

http://www.newmantools.com/lapping/time.htm

Just add it to the oil and then forget it. Innovation within the spirit of the rules, everyone is happy!

[/quote]

Well I’ll be dammed somebody else thought of it first.

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[Walt Gifford]

Stick on a fresh rebuild could be bad communication between engine builder and racer. Builder sets it up thinking it will get a long break in and the customer thinks it’s ready to race.

If I don’t know what’s going to happen to the engine after it leaves the shop I put in extra clearance.

Ignition could be set up with too much advance and too little rotor clearance. Might be a contributing factor.

Did you put oil in the gas?

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[Walt Gifford]

You need to get the clutch puller and holding wrench that was made for your clutch. After that it’s pretty easy.

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[Walt Gifford]

If he let a water cooled engine freeze there’s probably allot of other stuff wrong with it too.

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[Walt Gifford]

When you jam it into a tight turn your engine is going to slow down.

Slow down BEFORE you get to the turn then accelerate through it.

[Walt Gifford]

36 sounds like allot, I would try the blue loctite. Are you sure the nut’s not cracked?

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[Walt Gifford]

You can paint it with 2 part Klass kote no problem (definitely don’t breath that stuff) but I would just get a cheap enamel rattle can from Walmart. Spray very light coats and let it dry about a week.

When you get the seat be aware you will probably have to trim the sides (wings) back maybe an inch. You turn sideways and snap into it like a 9 volt battery.

One problem with the deep seat is it has 2 flat spots left and right where your hip bones touch the sides so it holds you up and out of the bottom of the seat. I though about smashing the sides out with a hammer and re-gluing or layering cloth on the outside and grinding the flats more concave. Tillet is actually more bulbous on the sides of the bottom.

The other problem is the hump in the crotch area is too far back. it’s better than Tillet but still not far enough forward. Haven’t figured a fix for that yet but it’s frustrating when you’re trying to get your butt down as far as you can and the seat won’t let you.

While I’m on a roll, 3rd problem is the seat is ungodly stiff. I don’t know who is working the chop gun but they have a heavy finger. let me know when the special order deep seat lite comes out and please leave the black pigment out of the resin so the sun doesn’t cook us.

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[Walt Gifford]

You can easily screw up the fit so, before you do anything test the fit, it might be ok. Put the clutch on with less than full torque and see if you can pull it off by hand with reasonable force. If not it’s a good fit. If you have to lap it don’t use anything course, you want 800 grit aluminum oxide or something similar. You want the taper to grip mostly on the big end so put a TINY bit of grit on the small end and work it in. Test often.

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[Walt Gifford]

Unless the left hand nut tightens down on the end of the shaft it’s not doing anything more than a regular right hand starter nut.

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[Walt Gifford]

I fix up project karts like that all the time and race them too. You can get a WKA rule book for abut $35 to give you the specs and you could race it in the gold cup div with that briggs flat head. You could do dirt oval with a BSP Clone motor or put a Briggs LO206 on it and race asphalt road course.

Just take it all apart, clean everything, weld any cracks and do mods to the frame, touch up the paint with a $2 rattle can from Walmart, replace any bearings or other components that are shot, new brake seals and braided steel brake lines, put it back together with new nuts and bolts, drill and cotter pin all bolts on steering and brake systems. Get a new set of body work and 4 Bridgestone YKC tires and drive it like you stole it.

You might get more help with ID over at http://karting.4cycle.com/forum.php

But most karts have generic parts that interchange anyway. Here’s a good site to buy parts http://www.out2win.com/catalog/ but buy your bearings somewhere else (long story).

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[Walt Gifford]

I was going to say Coyote but the spindles don’t look right. Also, don’t know why the brakes are on the right, can you move them to the left?

Briggs Raptor 4 stroke, might run on methanol if it was in sanctioned competition.

It’s a straight up Gold Cup kart (not Oval, not shifter) so you can run it on a road course or oval but you’re going to need a full width rear bumper. Measure your rear frame tubes, I’ll bet a Coyote bumper will fit.

What do you plan to do with it?

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