[Walt Gifford]

Those don’t come out.

[Walt Gifford]

Basically you’re making the common rookie mistake of driving straight from apex to apex, you need to use all of the track which means slowing down in certain spots so you can go much faster in others.

Ex: The last 3 turns coming onto the front straight are all wrong. You want to slow down in the first turn and hug the left side of the track to get an early apex for the next turn which you should try to drive straight across (your driving straight across it now but at the wrong angle). Then you’ll be in a position for a big sweeping turn onto the front straight. Also, swing it all the way to the right coming onto the straight.

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[Walt Gifford]

If you have a Can exhaust 93 pump gas is ok. If you have a pipe you better keep it pretty rich on 93 octane. A pipe likes Sunoco purple or VP C-12, VP MS98L is ok too. The problem with race gas is it goes south pretty quick so, you have to get it in 5 gal cans and decant to one gal cans to keep the air gap down. If you’re getting it from a large track tank, good luck.

Blendzall 460P Green Label Castor is still the best oil you can use in any kart engine but it’s more work to use it. Red Line Two Stroke Racing Oil is one of the top synthetics and it’s what I recommend.

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[Walt Gifford]

I can do it blind folded, do you have any mechanic skills? Kart brakes are very simple devices but you see guys on here all the time having tremendous difficulty. I’d suggest taking them apart for inspection before you buy parts. If the bores are badly pitted new seals won’t help.

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[Walt Gifford]

It’s my personal opinion that kids shouldn’t be allowed to race until they’re 8 years old. Before that age I consider it child endangerment. YMMV

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[Walt Gifford]

Depends on your level of prep and how you handle yourself on the track. If you run stuff till it breaks you’ll need just about everything you have at the shop. I take a fuel jug, chain oil, air bottle and a small tool box.

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[Walt Gifford]

Tire prep has come out of the dark ages. Just get trac tac blue tire wash to clean then after they dry, put several coats of trac tac SST on them a few days before you run. Follow the instructions on the can and you’ll have a good result and run those tires down to the chords.

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[Walt Gifford]

So what’s the answer we should all run Rotax? I was thinking more about the WKA. At one point you could go to a WKA track and know what classes and rules were there. Now you’ve got so many places doing their own thing it’s hard to feel a central pulse. When you see a newb post on here the advise is always go see what they run at your track. There really is no solution at this point just find your nitch and enjoy it. One word though, LO206.

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[Walt Gifford]

If we only had an organization that could govern a set of rules for all the tracks, some kind of world karting organization, we could use the same equipment everywhere.

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[Walt Gifford]

They can weld iron now? What kind of score and which port? Can’t you just hone it and keep going?

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[Walt Gifford]

I just tell them imagine going highway speeds in the walmart parking lot.

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[Walt Gifford]

delete

[Walt Gifford]

For karting in general. At a certain size and weight you can no longer get a front to rear weight balance that works and your vertical center of gravity is too high. This means your rear tires are stuck which requires too much steering input (toe out) which is like putting on the brakes in wide turns and you get a dramatic snap oversteer in tight turns which is hard to control. Also can’t run tires with grip because you’ll bicycle up on two wheels. If your frame is too light it will feel like a wet noodle jumping all over the place under heavy braking. Anything bigger than 1/4 mile track where you’re up over 50 mph for more than a few seconds and you have a big aero disadvantage. Kart racing is Napoleons revenge.

Don’t stress too much over what to buy, just get something in good shape with 32mm frame, med hard axle, MG reds and get out there.

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[Walt Gifford]

4 spring 3 disk DXL, Best clutch ever made.

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[Walt Gifford]

Pull the rubber piece out of the frame and fish out the nut that fell off.

[Walt Gifford]

Grand Products
2801 Bristol Pike,
Bensalem, PA 19020

(215) 244-1940

[Walt Gifford]

Get the big chassis. At 6′ 180 you’re at the max driver size and weight. Don’t listen to guys that think an extra 20 Lbs and a few inches of height don’t matter. Tell them to add 40 Lbs. to the top of their seat then you’ll be 20 lbs. heavier and more top heavy than me and let race again. Even then you still have more aero drag.

If you want a fun chassis that will last forever go back to 2000 before they started making flimsy frames that get punched out in one season. I hear the big teams change frames every 3-5 races and they straighten them on special jigs at the track.

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[Walt Gifford]

If they come up with a new tech rule they should allow any surface finish so Joe plumber can do it with a file for free.

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[Walt Gifford]

I’ve never know an EGT probe to be illegal that would be antiNunlyism.

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[Walt Gifford]

Take it apart. If you can get the seals for it rebuild it. If it’s corroded inside replace it.

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[Walt Gifford]

Pay low entry fee and not get nickel and dimed with allot of hidden fees.

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[Walt Gifford]

How do you know it’s being done then?

[Walt Gifford]

It’s just hot air from people that don’t understand engines.

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[Walt Gifford]

What was in the kit? Did you reset the lifters and set the ignition timing?

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[Walt Gifford]

Chris, before you buy junk come look at my 2008 CRG Road Rebel. It has very little track time. I got it to run Rotax but got out of rotax and into 4 stroke the same year and I’ll give you a fair price. It has a good KT100 on it or you can buy the roller. It’s ready to gas and go with new tires from a karter with over 40 years in the game, come check it out.

[URL=http://s889.photobucket.com/user/giffy6/media/RotaxCRG2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/giffy6/RotaxCRG2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

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