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Walt GiffordParticipant
My god it’s all intestines.
Walt GiffordParticipantFord-O-matic 1951.
October 21, 2014 at 10:06 am in reply to: Opinion on kart scrapes. are they too deep?? Link to pics included #35682Walt GiffordParticipantThose scrapes are nothing, it barely took the paint off. If it’s a good deal don’t let that stop you.
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Walt GiffordParticipantSounds like they put a new ring in it?
Walt GiffordParticipantThe rings should go in without excessive filing for end gap of .012″. The side gap with the ring installed should be .001″ or less. Put an allen wrench in the starter nut and pull it through, it should fight you pretty good. If it pulls through kinda easy that might be it but, I suspect ignition.
Did you try a new plug? You could pull the flywheel and check for a sheared key. Are the ground connections clean? Try a different coil.
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Walt GiffordParticipantSome builders don’t hone the bore right. I’ve seen guys that just scratch it with a big spring loaded brake hone with no torque plates, don’t even measure and call it done. Loose as a goose because, as long as it doesn’t stick the piston they did a perfect job.
That being said, let us know what reading you get when you check it with open throttle.
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Walt GiffordParticipant10 psi and .050″ below the oem gasket.
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Walt GiffordParticipantIf you use ATF change it every track session and expect to blow up your clutch. At least use synthetic ATF. Type F is mineral oil made for old Fords.
Highly recommend Horstman steel nytro clutch coolant, works great in anything.
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Walt GiffordParticipantI guess they were hoping to fly under the radar.
Walt GiffordParticipantHey Scott right after you left they turned the track into Meischke’s Christmas Wonderland. I would of paid real money to see you dressed as Santa Claus.
http://www.nj.com/cumberland/index.ssf/2011/11/meischkes_christmas_wonderland_1.html
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Walt GiffordParticipantIt doesn’t matter what data you have if you don’t know what to do with it.
October 6, 2014 at 8:24 pm in reply to: Should the engine turn when spinning the rear wheel by hand? #34947Walt GiffordParticipantInstalling the clutch and installing the seat, the 2 biggest pains in karting.
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Walt GiffordParticipantDoes it feel like it has compression when you crank it? Sometimes rings have burrs on the edges but, I’d suspect a fuel flow problem. Trace the pulse passage. Did you get the cylinder base gasket on right? Maybe a crank seal popped out, it happens. Do you hear a good base pop when you crank it with the spark plug out?
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Walt GiffordParticipantSnap a couple of pics of that seat mounting system.
Walt GiffordParticipantThey don’t seem to have a good web presents. I googled and went to a few dealer pages and didn’t find out much. Anybody got a link?
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Walt GiffordParticipantSwap the tires left to right sometime during the day. Every other race day turn the tires around on the wheels. When you’re done for the day scrape all the clag off with a heat gun and putty knife then wash with Trac Tac Blue tire wash. Once dry, apply one coat of Trac Tac SST and you’re good to go for next week. For winter storage wrap with plastic wrap and shrink it with the heat gun.
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September 26, 2014 at 8:41 pm in reply to: Switching from Castor Blend to Redline Two Cycle Oil #34508Walt GiffordParticipantRed Line is a great choice. I’ve been using it for years and have never stuck an engine. 16:1 is the right ratio for your set up. I would dump the remaining fuel just to inspect the bottom of the tank plus you want to get your needle settings with a know mix.
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Walt GiffordParticipantyea Al, compression means nothing and you don’t need an air density gauge or EGT to tune a carb.
Walt GiffordParticipantIs your chain very loose? Should have only 1/2″ of play.
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Walt GiffordParticipantDirt chassis is usually left turn only (LTO) which means the rear axle bearings are offset to the right. If it’s a straight up chassis set up for oval you can run it on a sprint track by putting the same wheels and tires on both sides and centering everything up.
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Walt GiffordParticipant[URL=http://s889.photobucket.com/user/giffy6/media/racingline.jpg.html][IMG]http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/giffy6/racingline.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
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Walt GiffordParticipantYou make the turn onto the straight as wide as you can and end up on the right side of the track then over the length of the straight you slowly cross over to the left side so you’ll have the best angle on the kink.
Now if I can try to explain about S turns. When you are in the S turns, when you get to the apex of the turn you need to hug that side of the track a little longer to get a better angle on the next turn.
On the final series of S turns before the main straight you have a left turn, a right turn and another left turn onto the straight. I’ll call these turns 1,2 &3. When you get to the apex of turn one hug the left side of the track a long long time until you’re out in the marbles way out there where nobody goes then turn hard to the right so you go straight across the apex of turn 2. When you’re passing the apex of turn 2 this is the start of turn 3 which should be as big and wide as possible ending on the right side of the straight. So, what you’ve done is sacrifice turn one so you’ll have a wider and faster turn 3 which will increase your straight speed. then use the whole length of the straight to cross over to the left side.
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Walt GiffordParticipantI wish I could draw it for you but I don’t know how. Going CCW, at the end of the main straight I would be on the left side of the track.
Walt GiffordParticipantThat looks worse. If it’s any consolation that looks like a very technical track.
September 15, 2014 at 1:06 pm in reply to: Not new to karting but new to trying to purchase one. #33858Walt GiffordParticipantI have a race ready coyote SRR for sale. Send PM
[URL=http://s889.photobucket.com/user/giffy6/media/000_1014.jpg.html][IMG]http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/giffy6/000_1014.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
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