[Walt Gifford]

If the brakes are ok when it’s cool the linkage is good. It sounds like you’ve still got air in the system or it’s leaking in during the track session.

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[Walt Gifford]

If they leak air when they retract the air gets heated and keeps pressure on the pads.

[Walt Gifford]

If you had a horstman wet clutch break inside it must have been in really poor condition to start with or you did something wrong with it. I’ve been using them forever and never had a problem when properly maintained. The 2 disk Steel Nytro (wet) is completely bullet proof for the 4 hole can or SRY pipe and I’ve been running one for years with no problems at all. People try to run cheap transmission fluid and go out several sessions without changing it then ignore the service intervals on key parts.

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[Walt Gifford]

Did you use brake lube when you assembled them? Try a bigger spring on the brake pedal.

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[Walt Gifford]

The brake problem is probably due to heat. Try adding a cooling vent. Also, you might try lifting off the brakes faster, the kart might corner faster than you think.

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[Walt Gifford]

You need to use bead loc screws, regular bolt will squeeze the Oring out.

Get it welded if you have the skills to re-drill it and surface the Oring seat.

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[Walt Gifford]

Knowledge is power, where’s the pay off?

I wrote up a thread about how to blueprint and modify a KT100, it got like 2 comments.

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[Walt Gifford]

I would sell that to someone interested in restoring vintage karts and buy a modern used kart that’s already running or very close to it. It’s way too big for a kid anyway.

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[Walt Gifford]

Could be a bad TCI or coil. Don’t bother going to the track without these spares. Also, clean your ground connections.

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[Walt Gifford]

if there is a bottom hole on the pedal it will give you more leverage. Does it look like your pads are wearing evenly? If not your caliper hanger might be welded out of square or bent. In that case new pads will make the problem worse. Is your disk the thin steel kind or vented? it might be getting over heated. That will give you brake fade after a few laps. brake fluid should be either mineral oil (dot3) or synthetic (dot5), make sure you know which before you melt your seals. Usually most take dot3. Bleed your brakes after every track day enough to get fresh fluid through the whole system.

Hope that helps,
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[Walt Gifford]

There comes a time in early training when confidence and speed will exceed skill level. This is when things can get dangerous as you try new things at high speed. A good teacher will know this.

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[Walt Gifford]

Vintage chassis is a very early kart from the 60’s – 70’s and some 80’s era they are not what you want to go racing with in todays modern era. A kart from the 90’s era can still be run in the very low powered classes such as stock clone. For HPV/KPV you want something from the last decade.

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[Walt Gifford]

Required watching for all newbies.

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[Walt Gifford]

I would have come over if I knew you were there. Was it a chirp or more like a splat might have been too rich. Did you change the clip or the jet, maybe you just didn’t jet big enough or could be a low float level. Did you try a new spark plug or clean your ground wire? It might be leaking air on one of the fuel hoses or your pump might need a rebuild or could be dirt in the carb did you check the screen, are the vents for the bowl open.

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[Walt Gifford]

You do realize there’s one major difference between cheerleading/gymnastics and karting right?

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[Walt Gifford]

There’s no significant change in performance. Just optimize the timing based on the WKA rule book.

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[Walt Gifford]

IMHO they shouldn’t let kids in karts until they’re 8 years old. Just another way for the kart shops to make money playing on dad’s pride.

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[Walt Gifford]

Slow down. I see it all the time, people dive into turns too fast and shallow then try to change direction all at once mid corner with lots of wheel sawing and skidding with tremendous physical effort. It’s such a dramatic event they think they’re really doing something as they skid to a stop.

If your driving skills are beyond reproach, heavy steering is usually a bad chassis set up. Get it on the scales, get the front end aligned, free the rear. You should be steering with the rear wheels not your forearms.

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[Walt Gifford]

I would run the 3 disk, who needs clutch maint hassles.

[Walt Gifford]

You’ll find the answer when you hit that sandy patch going into turn one at 90 mph.

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[Walt Gifford]

Actually I was speaking more to the OP.

[Walt Gifford]

Just put the wheels as wide as they will go, set all for 12 psi and try not to make any sudden moves your first track session. I’d suggest you run RedLine kart oil at 32:1 as you won’t have to worry about going through the tech tent for a while. Don’t know what gear you have on the front but an 85 rear gear would be a start. You sure jumped into the deep end with a Rotax as your first kart. Are you local to Millville? Sometimes I help people at the track, let me know when you’re going. Below are some vendors I have used for Rotax and general kart stuff.

Home

http://cometkartsales.com/home.php

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[Walt Gifford]

LOL Did you find that off a search for how to ship a tag kart?

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[Walt Gifford]

What’s your pop off pressure? Maybe drop it down to 8 psi or raise the arm a little. Have you cleaned the carb screen every track day. Throw in a new pumper.

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[Walt Gifford]

Best way to save money in karting is to buy everything new and take good care of it.

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