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February 20, 2014 at 1:10 pm in reply to: OMG! 55Hp KZ motor with Fuel Injection and Fly by Wire! #22353Chris ReinhardtParticipant
[quote quote=22351]At the very tip of the best Mod motos of the day back in 00-02 I never really heard a true HP number but I bet it was around 45-48 max. Those motors where as open as you could get. [/quote]
And they were grenades!!!! That’s one reason I said that 50hp, would be a stretch with a KZ, and “IF” 55hp was possible in a KZ EFI, that would be huge at the beginning of this thread…
February 19, 2014 at 6:22 pm in reply to: OMG! 55Hp KZ motor with Fuel Injection and Fly by Wire! #22302Chris ReinhardtParticipantMike, the EFI motor also had programmable ignition as well as fuel management I would assume?
I personally think those KZ numbers are inflated just because of the flat ignition curves. You could tune the ignition for peak power, it would either grenade or be a toad under that….
55hp seems like a big number, unless your racing dynos….
CR
February 19, 2014 at 10:27 am in reply to: OMG! 55Hp KZ motor with Fuel Injection and Fly by Wire! #22269Chris ReinhardtParticipant[quote quote=22263]I read that. My point is valid [/quote]
Glad you think so….. :)
February 19, 2014 at 7:52 am in reply to: OMG! 55Hp KZ motor with Fuel Injection and Fly by Wire! #22260Chris ReinhardtParticipant[quote quote=22259]CR: #1 now contradicting yourself? earlier you said it was not possible and now it is and now your argument (for arguing’s sake) becomes ‘so why is it special’? Dude… <span style=”line-height: 1.5em;”>#2 I think that’s the key. Using a karting engine with stock exhaust which is designed for a broad and driveable powerband. Having that engine make 55hp (vs. close to 50 with carb) is an achievement. </span> [/quote]
” if 55hp 125 was the norm”
Put on your glasses and read it again… :)
February 18, 2014 at 7:01 pm in reply to: OMG! 55Hp KZ motor with Fuel Injection and Fly by Wire! #22249Chris ReinhardtParticipant#1 Howie, if 55hp 125 was the norm in GP racing, then an EFI KZ making that would be no big whoop…. What I have taken out of the original story is that the 55hp mark in a KZ is and would be huge.
#2 Running a narrow powerband 125 two wheeler around a track, although not easy, the poweband is less of an issue because with that type of bike you carry speed through the corners.
In a kart on a tight sprint track, it would be difficult to keep it in the powerband…CR
February 18, 2014 at 12:02 pm in reply to: OMG! 55Hp KZ motor with Fuel Injection and Fly by Wire! #22220Chris ReinhardtParticipant[quote quote=22203]Chris, Since that video I posted showing our EFI running, we have seen as much as 53HP. Modena’s claim of 55HP is entirely plausable. The interesting observation we are seeing is that even while making this much HP, the internals of the engine are actually showing less stress and evidence of superior lubrication. I can post a dyno curve if required, but from what we are seeing, EFI is great and looks to be possible in the very near future. [/quote]
I’ll have to agree to disagree with you about the numbers, but I do agree EFI is the way to go, my newest superkart is going to be an EFI….
February 18, 2014 at 9:05 am in reply to: OMG! 55Hp KZ motor with Fuel Injection and Fly by Wire! #22199Chris ReinhardtParticipantI don’t think anybody said it was a made up number…. And if they already had a 55hp KZ, why would EFI be such a big deal? The point is, for a person that builds motors and understands what it would take to get 55hp, and what you would end up with, it’s not realistic…
Google is a great tool, but you have to be able to decipher what’s real, and what’s not
February 18, 2014 at 3:55 am in reply to: OMG! 55Hp KZ motor with Fuel Injection and Fly by Wire! #22162Chris ReinhardtParticipant[quote quote=22154]Mike, you were watching the speed in mph not hp. I didn’t do a hp pull, was just showing it running and the rpm range. That package was running gas and a KF style of exhaust. Makes ~45 hp in that config.<br>
[/quote]Exactly, 45hp, not 55hp.
45hp for a 125, is pretty much maxed out. If and when you could get 1hp more over that, would be a quantum leap. To get 10hp more than that, would be monumental if at all possible. Couple that with drivability, and it may not even be justified if it were possible…But it makes for a good story…
CR
Chris ReinhardtParticipantSounds good Andy, look forward to seeing you at the track….
Chris ReinhardtParticipant[quote quote=21996]Great job Chris. Keep up the good work. Thanks Adam/Hoosier for the support.[/quote]
Does that mean you will show up this year???
I gotta get an “A” game going!!!!
Chris ReinhardtParticipantdupe
Chris ReinhardtParticipantLet Ian update you, but I remember him talking about the after market ignitions didn’t work well, I believe it was because the stator assemble had a wacky voltage…. Then they bolted on the earlier stator assembly, but the timing had to be offset because the stator plate was timed differently on the two motors. Then I believe he was swapping the guts from one and putting on the case reed stator plate, so the timing was all good. At some point he was using some sort of regulator/filter to tame the stator voltage, I’m not sure if that’s what he ended up with or not.
Bottom line, nobody makes a direct fit after market CDI box for the case reed, at least nothing that works…
BTW Ignition timing is probably why your hitting a wall.. Try retarding the ignition as far as it will go, and see if the top end improves…
CR
Chris ReinhardtParticipantThis year should be a real learning experience, but my Cobalt will have a CRF450 EFI on it. Once I get it dialed…….. It “should” adjust itself…….
Another thing you guys should be discussing is what carb, and what fuel system (pump, tank, pickup, return, etc), and if there’s a g load area, ie left or right sweeper that’s causing a fuel starve…. Study the pistons, lean 4 corner stick, cold seize, ignition deto seize, over heating, etc…
CR
Chris ReinhardtParticipantDustin, do a search through the classic forum, there’s tons of info. You’ll find if you ask 10 people what’s the best chain lube, you’ll get 10 answers…
CR
Chris ReinhardtParticipantBeen covered several times already….
http://eknclassic.com/viewtopic.php?p=674100&highlight=#674100
Not an easy task, but doable….
Let me re-phrase that…. The actual bolting on and adapting the parts so the injector squirts, is pretty easy. Making the injector squirt the right amount at any given load, throttle position, baro pressure, water temp and air temp, that’s the hard part….
CR
January 29, 2014 at 9:10 am in reply to: OMG! 55Hp KZ motor with Fuel Injection and Fly by Wire! #20584Chris ReinhardtParticipant[quote quote=20568]The key here is that is makes 55hp with a 38mm carb. The best KZ’s with normal 30mm carbs make close to 50hp so 10% gain by going to 38mm and EFI is not that much of a big step up[/quote]
Even “IF” a legal KZ made 50hp, which is a stretch, 10% above that would be huge… And even if they added nitro and had secret dyno room, 100ft below sea level to make 55hp, it would be a light switch power band….
January 28, 2014 at 6:12 am in reply to: OMG! 55Hp KZ motor with Fuel Injection and Fly by Wire! #20451Chris ReinhardtParticipant[quote quote=20374]So, is this new engine a 6 speed shifter in 125cc size?[/quote]
Bill by definition a “KZ” motor is a max 125cc, max 6 speed…
BTW, 56hp sounds like a pretty good stretch, maybe on the dyno for a few seconds before it goes BOOM!!!
CR
Chris ReinhardtParticipantThe purpose of having the stinger pointing down is for noise suppression. If you don’t have issue with the noise, take and chop the elbow off and be done with it…
Chris ReinhardtParticipantPush stick sounds like a good idea until it pops off and catches the driver in the back of the neck!!!!
A block of wood and strap always served me well in a 125….
Chris ReinhardtParticipantUpdate:
I just got word from Hoosier, they will be on board again for 2014.
The details are being worked out, I will update everybody as soon as I know.The rules will be the same as last year, the contingency might change, please look for further updates…
Chris ReinhardtParticipantI’m thinking of getting one of these:
M18™ 3/4” High-Torque Impact Wrench
Lug nuts off, und schnell!!!
CR
Chris ReinhardtParticipantThe 1/4″ has 450 in/lbs=37.5 ft/lbs, by the time you get a deep socket on there, your pretty close to what the torque spec is. It might be hard getting them off, especially with a battery that isn’t 100%. A better choice might be the 3/8″ drive @ 1000 in/lbs=83.3 ft/lbs….
CR
Chris ReinhardtParticipant[quote quote=19394]Boy you guys like to make things complicated. Just get it blasted it takes about 10 minutes and it’s not expensive. You don’t need walnut shells or dried Italian grape fruit seeds just fine sand. It’s quick it’s easy and your paint or powder coat will adhere much better to a surface with a profile.
Brian
[/quote]You’re a little late to the party :), that was post #3…. and I think he has it stripped already with brake clean….
Chris ReinhardtParticipant[quote quote=19385]I don’t need any heat with this stuff, It will practically come off with nail polish remover. My question originally was somewhat pointless since it was really before I started and I really didn’t know just how easy this stuff comes off. It goes right down to the metal right now with brake carb / cleaner, you can almost hose it off after putting stripper on it.[/quote]
The problem with a chem strip, it neutralizing it….
Walt, I guess you’re talking *C? Because 4130 is fully anneal at 900*C, or cherry red. But who’s to say how a lessor temp would effect the spring rate…
BTW Thia was a “professional” chem strip job on an Anderson chassis..
Chris ReinhardtParticipant[quote quote=19370]Agreed, aircraft paint stripper would probably kill a regular guy. Should only be used by someone from Jersey. Although burning paint off would be my last resort, you won’t change anything about the metal with a hand held propane torch. Gif [/quote]
I bet to differ… A hand held propane torch can generate a flame of over 3000f, it takes about 1/2 that to completely anneal 4130.. The whole chassis is a spring, the last thing you want to do is change the spring rate, and especially not unevenly…
Look through your FAA books, I’m sure there’s an exact procedures for annealing 4130 when tig welded to prevent stress cracking…. And I’m sure the heat is hotter, but that’s to completely anneal the area, and I would be sure how change would happen with less heat, but I would want to find out….
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