[Chris Reinhardt]

A couple of more issues related also….

The gearbox having a vent tube is open to the atmosphere, and going from a hot state during running to a cold state, parked in the trailer or garage, the oil will collect condensation.  Also, the oil level plug being very unreliable,  I like to drain the oil and refill, so I know I have the proper amount.  And, and…  how much is a quart the best of the best tranny oil compared to the fuel bill  to get you to the track????

I know everybody is on a budget, but to me it’s like asking how often should I brush my teeth?  As often as you can….

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=7438]Chris Reinhardt, You have been bitching all this time in this thread and previous threads…you have all this to say about both motors, but have you EVER competed on a national or a competitive level? Certain things you say are just wtf…Google searches are great…but they are not better then experience!  [/quote]

The best quote I have ever heard in my life time, “If I read it on the internet, it must be true”  The reverse must also be true…  Don’t be lazy, ask around….

1999-2002 WKA Nation Road Race Series 125 Class.

2003-2005 WKA National Road Race Series Unlimted/Superkart

2013 East Coast Superkart Series

Here’s some play riding with my buddy Enzo…

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=7381]Chris, I didn’t write the post for you. Maybe you should stick to the Honda drivel.

<hr />

<div class=”bbp-reply-signature”>tdb/GFK</div>
[/quote]

Don’t worry Tom, spaghetti motors are not in my future…. I’ll stick to the Honda “drivel” way more fun….

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

You can’t shim it to 19mm, it will be a .5mm shim, about .020″, that’s too thin.  You have to bore it larger, press a heavier tube into it, then bore that to 3/4″

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

It seems that the “low information Honda wrenches” know more about crank building than the snooty spaghetti builders…  Which is odd, because you NEVER rebuild a CR125 crank, you just buy a new one….  Besides, your memory must be failing, we went through this already on EKN Ver 1.0…  and we established you know jack about building cranks….

You should just quit Tom, your digging yourself deeper…….

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=7305]Yes, I do believe my own B.S. and so do my customers. They keep coming back!

<hr />

<div class=”bbp-reply-signature”>tdb/GFK</div>
[/quote]

Alright Jim Jones, you got me….  I can’t argue with gullible customer’s……. Do you have vacation property in Guyana?

Note to self: Do not accept punch drink from Tom…..

 

[Chris Reinhardt]

Mark, a measuring device is your friend……  Last Anderson steering shaft I looked at was 3/4″, about 1 mm smaller than 20 mm.  If you have a clutch on the steering hub, Anderson used to bush the 20 mm hub and bore it to 3/4″.  I have a fixture to doing mine in the lathe.

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=7122]You guys are sandblasting frames? I was under the impression that is not a good idea due to ever so slightly changing the properties of the metal from the blasting process. I thought we could only dip them.

<hr />

<div class=”bbp-reply-signature”>ActionKartRacing.com
CKR – sg3, TM</div>
[/quote]

If you going to powder coat, it needs the sand blasting texture to adhere.  My new chassis get sand blasted…

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=7157]Chris, You’re totally out of sync. I’ve been trying to find a TM K engine for a week now. If you know of any TM KZ dust collectors, please contact me. Just got back from a friends kart shop in Bellville, MI. Someone just dumped a trailer load of ‘junk’ on him. Three shifter karts, 2 Yamahas and a Honda. You should bag your a** out there. He’d probably give you those junkers. How can you use a manual on a JC engine? Thank the Lord we don’t need a manual for the KZ. Just bolt it on and go racin’. P.S. I believe TM will build you any model you would want. How about Honda???

<hr />

<div class=”bbp-reply-signature”>tdb/GFK</div>
[/quote]

http://italianmotors.myshopify.com/products/tm-kz10

How many do you want?

Of course you don’t need a manual for a KZ, the motors never come apart, you just rebuild but not blue print, cranks for other peoples customers…

The sad part is, you believe your own BS……

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=7041]Chris said: On paper, the formula looks like all engines will be equal, but in reality, when they get race prepped, the outcome is very different… In all honesty, unless one motor is like 10hp more than another, the choice is pretty simple, buy a motor you can readily get parts for….. I get parts for various KZ engines with no problems. I went to a local Honda shop for a piston one day….shop had to order it from a warehouse in Iowa. Now with CR125 out of production parts will get even harder to get. I like to think of the CR125 as a ‘Johnny Cash’ engine ‘One Piece At a Time’.

<hr />

<div class=”bbp-reply-signature”>tdb/GFK</div>
[/quote]

 

I can get parts for various anything with no problem also, I can’t however walk into my local kart shop and order a KZ anything, I don’t have one, but I do have a local Honda shop that I can order parts from.

And for the millionth time, the 1999 CR125 kart engine is not out of production, it is very much alive and well, factory supported, has a factory contingency, a racer parts program, and the best part,   a FACTORY MANUAL!!!

The TM K”whatever” through K10a is out of production.  Plenty on the shelf though collecting dust….

Johnny Cash, really?

CR

 

[Chris Reinhardt]

Gerry, I wouldn’t put any extra heat in the frame, it is what it is.  If the frame is clapped out, then it’s time for a new one, you can’t turn back the clock.

Part of the process of refinishing the frame is the inspection portion.  After it’s sandblasted and stripped, that’s when you go over the frame and look for any cracks or broken welds/braze joints.  Especially look over and around the engine mounting tabs.

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

Hey Todd, yes I will be at Summit.  I looked around, I don’t believe I have any info left for the chassis, and honestly, I don’t think the factory had much more than seat location.

Scale the chassis, get your 60%/65% rear weight, 50% side to side, set the rear at 55″, and mess with the front width.  Also, there’s rear ride height on it, I used to run rear in the high position, meaning cassettes as low in the brackets, leave the front bolt loose.

I do have a brandy new steering shaft :) and I have left and right spindles, not sure if they are straight.

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=6732]On the current CIK Homologation list for KZ2 engines there is; Modena KK1 Vortex RVZ Parilla Screamer Parilla Drifter LKE R14 TM KZ10B Maxter MXS Derbi Exigo? How would I pick the best engine from the current CIK listing? Which one is the fastest? [/quote]

That’s Tom’s point Sam, they are all exactly the same, pick the one with the coolest name…. :)

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=6712]Modena looks good too, Sam The beauty of KZ is the homologation specs that control the design of these engines. Pick your favorite you can be competitive.

<hr />

<div class=”bbp-reply-signature”>tdb/GFK</div>
[/quote]  Tom, Wait a minute, let me get my boots back on!!!!

Another addition of Thomas in Wonderland….. :)

On paper, the formula looks like all engines will be equal, but in reality, when they get race prepped, the outcome is very different…

In all honesty, unless one motor is like 10hp more than another, the choice is pretty simple, buy a motor you can readily get parts for…..

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=5301]Guys, I have two karts. One is a GP10 and the other is a Hasse Blizzard. My father and I drive the two karts. The Hasse wore out a front tire on the inside edge at the last race. There were relatively few laps on the tires. The GP10 probably has 3x the number of laps on the same tires and they still look great. I’d like to check the alignment on the Haase. There are no kart shops anywhere close to me and I don’t own a sniper. Is there anyway to do it without spending a bunch of money.

<hr />

<div class=”bbp-reply-signature”>Hasse Blizzard
GP10
Stock Honda</div>
[/quote]

Todd, I’m the fellow… First thing is take those long hubs off the front of that Haase!!!!  That will exaggerate the negative camber.  You don’t have the pills, just the bushings top and bottom.   I always shot for dead zero on the toe, they say +1mm without driver.  The Blizzard always wore in the inside of the tires, you should be able to get a weekend out of a set, then dismount and flip them inside out…

Let me look, I remember having the seat location from Haase, I don’t think I had the setup guide.  You can also send an email to Jorn in Italy, his wife usually responds, tell them you know me, they are really nice people…

I use the exact toe also, best thing since sliced  bread!!!!

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

http://debeimotori.com/ENG/engines_exigo.php

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

Not so much for the ones that raced into it… :)

[Chris Reinhardt]

I wonder what computer designed the flat curve analog PVL ignition on the ICC’s?  :)

Hmmm, the 99 CR125 uses a digital ignition…..

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

Larry, I don’t think the ends of the tube are that critical, as long as they aren’t 45’s!!!!  The washer will bottom out on the case, if one gets there first, not a big deal, the rest of it will follow.

 

Broc, it’s easy to spell, it’s to the left of your pointless bantering…..  :)

[Chris Reinhardt]

It’s called “sperience”…. just another day in the office….

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

Bob, we used to slip cranks on the 1-2-5’s.  The basic concept is to put the crank in a lathe and spin it and use a piece of sanding cloth to trim it down.  Usually all you need is some racer’s tape to hold the rod in place and spin the crank fairly slow.

Ian’s method of trimming the bearing has become preferable,  probably more accurate, and can be done in a drill press that most all of us have, and if you change your mind or screw up, it’s cheaper to change.  :)

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=5814]Its ok you don’t understand Chris, maybe someone else will crasp the concept. Sit this one out.[/quote]

crasp:
not being able to grasp the crap someone is talking

I’m sorry, you’re right…..   I “crasp” every time Tom is saying something also….  :)

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=5808]For crying out load, I’m not talking about what was done or what can be done, whatever. If all costs where equal. If you bought the damn engine and over 3 years you put the same amount into each over those years whats your choice. Its not that hard to understand.[/quote]

 

But all costs are not equal, what’s the point?  Are we creating a fantasy league here?

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=5394]Darn it, here we go. Its really simple. ALL COSTS are EQUAL. What would you choose. Don’t make it more then it is. KZ engines are perfect out of the box. My first ICC was a CRS which was out of the box stock for the whole year I had it and I was faster then my mod honda straight away. The modification of engines is not the KZ or any engines fault. Does the honda need to be modified? I guess not, Stock Moto right! Same for KZ. I just won a race on a 2006 Maxter. There where 2002 Pavesi’s and TM k9s that where right there. Unless your top level the whole you need the latest is bunk and you know it. Nevermind this argument, its not going to work. I thought it might be fun Chris, I ran stock moto all of 2010. Good engine, ran great all year, power was good. I’ve owned many KZ, mod honda and stock honda engines so I need now history lesson. Also the parts engine you by from Skark Shifter and put it together is not the same as the national level engines by a builder. Close, sure but I bet there are at least 2-3 hp difference. You know that. [/quote]

 

Keith, you need to make up your mind!!!

[quote quote="Keith Bridgeman"]But Tom,  Tec-Sav and all the rest are tunners right?   Massive amounts of work are done to the KZ engines.  Porting, pollishing, huge changes in the intake,  polishing the transmission.  There are limits do many things but lots can and are done.  I have the bills to prove it.

Don’t get me wrong I prefer KZ by a long shot.[/quote]

[Chris Reinhardt]

[quote quote=5394]Darn it, here we go. Its really simple. ALL COSTS are EQUAL. What would you choose. Don’t make it more then it is. KZ engines are perfect out of the box. My first ICC was a CRS which was out of the box stock for the whole year I had it and I was faster then my mod honda straight away. The modification of engines is not the KZ or any engines fault. Does the honda need to be modified? I guess not, Stock Moto right! Same for KZ. I just won a race on a 2006 Maxter. There where 2002 Pavesi’s and TM k9s that where right there. Unless your top level the whole you need the latest is bunk and you know it. Nevermind this argument, its not going to work. I thought it might be fun Chris, I ran stock moto all of 2010. Good engine, ran great all year, power was good. I’ve owned many KZ, mod honda and stock honda engines so I need now history lesson. Also the parts engine you by from Skark Shifter and put it together is not the same as the national level engines by a builder. Close, sure but I bet there are at least 2-3 hp difference. You know that. [/quote]

 

You guys keep sticking your heads in the sand….  STOCK HONDA That means there’s no modifications allowed….  KZ are fast out of the box, but they can be modified within the rules.  Currently in the USA, there isn’t a pro level KZ series, and I don’t think there’s too many serious racers willing to get a KZ maxed out.  That’s why most of the people on here talking from “experience” say it’s not needed to build one up.

Ask McNeil what it cost to setup a pro level KZ, and what happen to the maintenance intervals, he ran them back when there was a pro level series here in the states for KZ,  There is however a pro level Stock Honda series, and plenty of valid info with regards to what a maxed out Stock Honda is.

http://www.tecsav-shop.com/  Plenty of good info here, oh yah, Tom gives away all there speed secrets for free!!!!

CR

 

[Author]

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