- This topic has 13 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 7 months ago by Dave Holstein.
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January 2, 2014 at 12:25 pm #18821tony zambosParticipant
Dave,
Brake cleaner will do that to paint. For stripping the chassis, use a chemical paint stripper designed to remove paint form aircraft. Years ago, it was available at Auto Zone. Don’t know about now.
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January 2, 2014 at 1:26 pm #18827Ted HamiltonParticipant
Be very careful with aircraft stripper. It works, but even doing it outside with good breeze, I inhaled some and burnt my lungs as well as experiencing rapid pulse and tunnel vision… USE A RESPIRATOR!! I’ve recovered for the most part, but don’t take chances — one mistake can end a life or permanently change it… I’ve since wire brushed ’em, used other strippers, sandblasted, and media blasted (walnuts/soda). Now it’s worth my time/money to let somebody else have the risk and hassle. Blast plus powedercoat is around $200 here. Good luck…
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January 10, 2014 at 3:24 pm #19375Chris ReinhardtParticipant
[quote quote=19370]Agreed, aircraft paint stripper would probably kill a regular guy. Should only be used by someone from Jersey. Although burning paint off would be my last resort, you won’t change anything about the metal with a hand held propane torch. Gif [/quote]
I bet to differ… A hand held propane torch can generate a flame of over 3000f, it takes about 1/2 that to completely anneal 4130.. The whole chassis is a spring, the last thing you want to do is change the spring rate, and especially not unevenly…
Look through your FAA books, I’m sure there’s an exact procedures for annealing 4130 when tig welded to prevent stress cracking…. And I’m sure the heat is hotter, but that’s to completely anneal the area, and I would be sure how change would happen with less heat, but I would want to find out….
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January 10, 2014 at 6:58 pm #19386Chris ReinhardtParticipant
[quote quote=19385]I don’t need any heat with this stuff, It will practically come off with nail polish remover. My question originally was somewhat pointless since it was really before I started and I really didn’t know just how easy this stuff comes off. It goes right down to the metal right now with brake carb / cleaner, you can almost hose it off after putting stripper on it.[/quote]
The problem with a chem strip, it neutralizing it….
Walt, I guess you’re talking *C? Because 4130 is fully anneal at 900*C, or cherry red. But who’s to say how a lessor temp would effect the spring rate…
BTW Thia was a “professional” chem strip job on an Anderson chassis..

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January 10, 2014 at 7:58 pm #19389Walt GiffordParticipant
Dang, I vote for Daves brake kleen method.
Gif
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January 11, 2014 at 4:04 am #19394Brian DegulisParticipant
Boy you guys like to make things complicated. Just get it blasted it takes about 10 minutes and it’s not expensive. You don’t need walnut shells or dried Italian grape fruit seeds just fine sand. It’s quick it’s easy and your paint or powder coat will adhere much better to a surface with a profile.
Brian
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January 11, 2014 at 5:02 am #19395Chris ReinhardtParticipant
[quote quote=19394]Boy you guys like to make things complicated. Just get it blasted it takes about 10 minutes and it’s not expensive. You don’t need walnut shells or dried Italian grape fruit seeds just fine sand. It’s quick it’s easy and your paint or powder coat will adhere much better to a surface with a profile.
Brian
[/quote]You’re a little late to the party :), that was post #3…. and I think he has it stripped already with brake clean….
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January 11, 2014 at 8:31 am #19403Dave HolsteinParticipant
Its almost completely stripped, I’m actually using stripper from the hardware store, areas around the breaks were baked on a little, then I’m going to wash it with soap and water, then off to powder coat I have decided. I wanted to get it to the point that it will take just a light blasting to clean it off completely without affecting the frame to much, it’s in real good shape.
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January 2, 2014 at 12:43 pm #18823John SavageParticipant
Grit blasting will do it
Or if you have the time and want to save some $, then a blow torch and a wire bush
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January 10, 2014 at 4:00 am #19334Chris ReinhardtParticipant
[quote quote=18823]Grit blasting will do it Or if you have the time and want to save some $, then a blow torch and a wire bush [/quote]
I wouldn’t suggest putting any kind of heat into the chassis, you might change some of the properties of the metals…. ie, anneal it….
CR
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January 10, 2014 at 12:28 pm #19370Walt GiffordParticipant
Agreed, aircraft paint stripper would probably kill a regular guy. Should only be used by someone from Jersey. Although burning paint off would be my last resort, you won’t change anything about the metal with a hand held propane torch.
Gif
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January 10, 2014 at 4:27 pm #19379Walt GiffordParticipant
Powder coat comes off between 250 – 350 degrees. To draw the temper from fully hardened 4130 you go to 600 degrees, up to that temp your frame is ok. To make it fully annealed you need to heat it red hot until it’s non-magnetic which is about 900 degrees.
It’s academic anyway, nobody can stand the smell of burning powder coat.
Gif
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January 10, 2014 at 6:25 pm #19385Dave HolsteinParticipant
I don’t need any heat with this stuff, It will practically come off with nail polish remover. My question originally was somewhat pointless since it was really before I started and I really didn’t know just how easy this stuff comes off. It goes right down to the metal right now with brake carb / cleaner, you can almost hose it off after putting stripper on it.
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