[tony zambos]

Aaron,
Check out the FAQ’s for the forum for a how to post an image. You’ll need to place your photos on a server. I use Photobucket, it’s free, just slow. DC said that you can also use Facebook, but I’m a rank amateur on Facebook, so I can’t help you there.

With the image on Photobucket, select the image. The images I’ve put on PB all turn out to be too large when adding them to a post. In that case, select EDIT, RESIZE & SAVE. On the right side of the screen, click on the IMG sharing link which will copy the link. Paste that link into your forum post. This image was reduced to 340×560.
[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/backlite/media/9a126d9b-bf51-4b9c-ab35-bec78abf6c55_zps9t7e3luy.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/backlite/9a126d9b-bf51-4b9c-ab35-bec78abf6c55_zps9t7e3luy.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[tony zambos]

Link to a chain test tool:
http://www.performancekartsport.com/Panther%20Kart%20Chain/page86/index.html

Link to a reply posted by Tom Grisham on May 28, 2013
http://eknclassic.com/viewtopic.php?t=123466&highlight=

[tony zambos]

Kelby,
Set the brake bias to it center position and pull the brake pedal hard and hold it. If the both master cylinders compress the same amount and hold that position, you either have a contaminant on the braking surfaces or they’re glazed.
If one of the master cylinders compresses more (assuming it’s the front’s), there is either air still in the system or there is a faulty seal. Start with the master cylinder and work your way out.
Also, make sure you’re using the correct brake fluid.

[tony zambos]

+1 on Dan’s comments. Plus a shop is going to find any other problems with the engine and fix them. You don’t want to do a crank by yourself and have it blow up due to another problem or assembly error the first time you start it back up. As a reference, you can download manuals from this site. http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/?r=0

[tony zambos]

Erich,
Welcome to karting. First, out sport does not run in parking lots or on streets because it is not safe. Contact the Badger Kart club for a proper place to run your kart. http://www.badgerkartclub.com/
Second, I don’t recognized the clutch, but that remaining part seems to be past the taper on the shaft. If that part spins in the on crank shaft, carefully pry the woodruff key without damaging the shaft and try to pull it off by hand. At this point if you see any wobble in the crank, take it to a kart shop as you won’t have the tools to re-align or replace that side of the crank. It would be a good to take it to a shop any way as you probably don’t know how much time is on this motor.

[tony zambos]

The earlier version of the push button box did have a fuse that could be replaced. Later models were epoxy filled and there was no access to any of the electrical components within the box.

[tony zambos]

Does the engine seem to turn over as fast as it did originally did while cranking?

[tony zambos]

Think about this. Was the kart in gear?

[tony zambos]

A strap around the rear tire? Think about that. All you’re going to do is spin the clutch drum. It takes engine RPM to engage the clutch.

[tony zambos]

Larry,
Here’s a link to a CRG parts manual. Page 36 has a photo of a MC and shows the line Steen was referring to. If yours looks similar, fill to approximately where the line should be on yours.

[tony zambos]

Brian,
Check out section 4.4-GPS LAP TIMER of the GPS05 user manual. It reads “to get lap and split times w/o a beacon, all that’s needed is a firmware version of 31.57.06 or later.”

[tony zambos]

Mark, any luck?

[tony zambos]

Brian,
Guessing, since I’m no pro at GPS units, but maybe the release of microcode in your friends Mychron is out of date or different from yours.
When your friend downloaded his session with the GPS unit, did it have one lap time for the entire session or was there zero time for the whole session. If there was a total session time, that can be broken down into lap times. This link to the AMI Insert Lap Video might help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cTc-FumI2kQ

[tony zambos]

Mark,
have you tried removing the spark plug and clutch drum to check how easily the crank spins? Also look thru the plug hole and the exhaust port to see if there is any damage to the cylinder wall. I suppose you could have a partially stuck engine.
Take one of your starter motors apart. Check the brush leads. Take a volt meter and check the resistance between each one of the segments on the armature. The readings should all be close to each other. But I have doubts that both starters have the same problem.
I’d also check the connector to the starter for a pushed in pin. What made you think originally think that started was bad?
At this point it may not be a bad idea to take the engine into a shop.

[tony zambos]

thanks

[tony zambos]

Mark,
Hopefully the battery will fix your problem. Let us know the results. Picking up a used external starter wouldn’t be a bad idea. You could put a second battery on your to buy list as well. And also with any Leopard, spare starter motor brushes and a tube of silicon.

[tony zambos]

Mark,
If you can get your hands on an external starter, try that. Check the battery voltage. Check the ground wires, the one on the block and the one across the isolator for the coil. You mentioned that the stator was replaced. Was the rotor replaced also?

[tony zambos]

Look around to find an oval track in your area. And you could take pictures of the kart, upload them to a picture file server, PhotoBucket or Facebook, then link them to your posts. There is a how-to write up on the forum to do that. There should be someone on the forum that can help you.
A track is a great place to bring kids and friends, and a good place to make new friends. good luck

[tony zambos]

David, if you really want to do this, find two kart shops in the area and have a discussion with them. And find a track where you can watch. Most karters will be willing to talk at the track so long as they’re not thrashing a kart to ready it for their next track session. Besides finding a chassis, you’ll have to figure what class to run in and that will determine the type of engine to run. The minis, jr, cadet kart are all for those under 16.
My advice would be not to consider a shifter kart. They look cool but will be way over you ability to drive safely in competition. A Yamaha KT100 would be a good place to start. Your kart shop will know the class situation in the area and be able to make recommendations. Find a class that has good participation. That way you’ll have a wealth of knowledge and spare parts to draw from. If you can, buy a kart and engine package from the same shop. You’ll get more support from them that way.
You’ll find complete kart packages here in the classified section. I would prefer buying a kart that I could see and feel. Kart will bend, so you might have to have it straightened. Look for anything bent or excess wear on the bottom side of the frame rails. Your first kart may not be perfect, but the first kart will be a learning experience. Good luck.

[tony zambos]

Cisco,
You are not listening. No streets or parking lots, period.

[tony zambos]

Aaron,
Just because you’re using the jetting other people told you to use does not equate to having the proper jetting, unless you have the same weight floats, at the same height as the other people. Pull the plug and check its color and also check the color of the exhaust header. Also check the packing in the exhaust pipe.
With a Rotax, you can’t slam the gas pedal down coming out of a turn. Other causes could be the wrong gearing or maybe it’s time for a rebuild

[tony zambos]

Larry,
The oil was probably a kind gesture, but if it was an open bottle or if you’re not comfortable using it, don’t. I’ve only used Motul and RevClean and can’t remember either one of those smelling like rear end grease.
Check the rulebook for the association you’ll be racing with on the type of oil required and if there is a required amount. Five ounces of oil per gallon of gas is a good place to start.

[tony zambos]

The metal tanks with a valve at the bottom of the tank should have a baffle around the fuel pick up point. The plastic tanks that feed out the top have a weighted pickup tube and no need for a baffle. Just make sure the tubing for the pick up is pliable.

[tony zambos]

Josh,
Check with the organizations that you’ll be racing with. Looking at the USPKS 20015 rules, because I just downloaded them, reads that the Leatt-Brace Moto Kart and Moto GPX are legal for this series.

[tony zambos]

Jay,

thanks for the info and tips.

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