[tony zambos]

At this point in time, you need seat time. Strive for consistency and make small adjustments to see where they take you. Use your builder’s setup as a base and work from there.

[tony zambos]

When getting burnt was an issue, my driver used these Kevlar sleeves from Pegasus Racing, https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1184.
Pegasus also have Nomex suit repair material.

No ideas with the seat bolts. We don’t cover them and have no problems. Are you possibly moving around too much in the seat?

[tony zambos]

Posting an image is a little involved. You’ll need to have a web site to store your picture and use a link in your post back to the picture server. See the FAQ’s under the Forum tab.

[tony zambos]

Do what you have to do to make your engine/chassis combo work. Make the plate or investigate an alternative mount. Can the engine be moved forward or backwards to eliminate the interference?

[tony zambos]

Glad you made onto the track.

The two bolts that hold the engine plate to the base plate should be sufficient. Are you using the engine stop on the chassis and how much slack in the chain do you start out with? Pick a spot have way between your gears and measure the total deflection of the chain. About 20mm show be good. Also rotate the axle 90 degrees and check again. Keep checking for a full rotation of the axle gear. Could your rear gear be damaged or misaligned?
Try reaching out to Burris, either on FB or by phone, (714) 375-3500.

[tony zambos]

Did a little looking around found the tire sizes for LO206 are 4.60 and 6.00, both are on 5″ rims. So your rim sizes seem OK.

[tony zambos]

William,
The wheel sizes you mentioned seem a little off, but then I have no idea as to what size wheels are used on a 206. 5″ wheels are the most common. Only occasionally have I seen 6″ on endure karts. Look at the tire size on the tire. Example: a 7.10 x 5 would indicate a 5″ rim.
For the time being, if there is a shop or a kind fellow racer at the track, ask if they will mount up your tires. And watch closely. Mounting tires is not that hard if it’s warm out. But it does take some technique.

[tony zambos]

I’ve always used a cloth tire wrap, made by Exotic Toy Builder. It’s probably not available any more. The new ones all seem to be metal. You’ll see many people not used them. I would use one. You’ll need something to lub the tire and rim to bead up the tire. Dawn dish soap works. If you’ve seen the You Tube videos of guys mounting up tires with their bare hands, forget it, you won’t be able to. Get a tire Pryr kit.

[tony zambos]

A local gas station has been recycling my tires for years, but for a fee. Check with a local gas station or tire dealer.

[tony zambos]

We use a cheap 10×15 trap from Harbor Freight Tools because it fits under our shelter awning and partially under the trailer. You’ll have to pick the size you need. Depending on the surface you’re pitting on, you’ll need a method of keeping the tarp in place. By the end of three day weekend, pitted on gravel, the tarp gets tossed.
As for a fire extinguisher, any hardware store should have one. You shouldn’t need a large one. Check to see if you have to bring it along to the grid.

[tony zambos]

OK. I have to ask, have you modified some of the AIM connectors?

[tony zambos]

A couple of more thoughts. Your gauge should be at firmware level 31.59.32 and the GPS module at 35.45. Have you loaded a track map into the module or have you set the start/finish manually and had the module learn the track. How many tracks are stored on the module? If there are more tracks stored in the module than you need, clear them out.

[tony zambos]

Other than voltage and the number of satellites, there isn’t much else preventing the module from working. You might be at location that has poor satellite coverage. I’m assuming that the GPS module is located on the top of your fairing. Look at your data in Race Studio. Compare working and non-working sessions. Six satellites is a weak signal. Look for the number of satellites going to zero intermittently which should indicate a broken cable or connector.
Ask your competitors if they have the same issue.

[tony zambos]

Check the battery level and the number of satellites. If you are running off the battery in the M4, you’re gong to use a lot of 9 volt batteries. Replace when the voltage gets near 7v. Another option would be to run the power cables from the hub to the engine battery.

[tony zambos]

Take the spec you need for the head bolts and any other bolts you might want to torque (like maybe a spark plug), and search the internet. I use a 3/8’s drive one that was left over from work. It’s scale is in inch/pounds. Recommend the type that you set the torque value by turning the end of the handle and the head clicks when the value is reached. Wouldn’t go over $100. A $50 one should be just fine. I saw a range in prices from $19 to $400. You don’t need the $400 variety and I’d stay away from the cheap beam type that has a pointer and a scale to read the torque values off of.

[tony zambos]

Juan,

Will send you the pictures by this evening.  tony

 

[tony zambos]

Wondering if something is amiss with your engine if your gauge is functioning properly.  Assuming that you are running on a sprint track.  What was the ambient temperature and what was your max RPMs?  What plug are your running and how long has it been since the engine was serviced.  What did you have as a main jet and is this an EVO motor.

Road racing, we’d start off with a third of the radiator taped off and later with the flap down for a lap or two.  After that, it was tape off or flap open.  It’s as if your engine was not working hard enough, the plug was too cold or the carb was too rich.  Do you have the thermostat still in the head?

 

 

[tony zambos]

Yes. Warm your engine up on the stand before hitting the track. Are you running straight water?

[tony zambos]

When this issue is resolved, would you post the fix. Thanks

[tony zambos]

Since you’ve probably haven’t seen a firmware update, after you have connected the datakey to the M4 and turned it on, there maybe 10 to 15 seconds before you’ll see the lights on the M4 begin to flash.  The whole process my take over a minute.  There is also a short delay after beginning to download data from the gauge. During the data download, there is one line across the middle of the screen that reads “downloading”.

You’ve been to the track a couple of times.  Have you ever tried to import the data from the gauge into Race Studio 2?

[tony zambos]

To update the firmware for the M4, you must have a working datakey and seeing an error code is never a good sign.  I’d guess that your datakey has an issue with its cable or with the connection on the gauge.  You can inspect both connectors for debris or bent pins.  I wouldn’t suggest using a friends datakey as you might damage it.  Call AiM support.

There are many help videos on You Tube.  This first link below goes over the firmware update (which you have all ready figured out) and second goes over connecting the GPS05 module to an M4.

[tony zambos]

Assumimg that you do not have your pc and the gauge both connected to the datakey and your gauge reads that it has 7.5 volts.
My suggestion would be to call AIM support with the gauge, datakey and GPS module in hand. If your equipment has to go in for repair, AIM’s turn around is usually fairing quick.
Another thought. Are you using a two port hub to connect your GPS to the M4?

[tony zambos]

After the firmware downloaded on your pc, there should have been three options about how the datakey should update the gauge. Which option did you choose?

[tony zambos]

Read the firmware level off your gauge and confirm it is the latest version.  If your have an IR or magnetic lap sensor, disconnect it from the gauge.

[tony zambos]

Allen,

You may not have to correct tools.  I assume you have used the fixation tool for the starter gear to remove the nut that holds the clutch drum on.  Next, place the fixation tool for the sprocket in a vice or fasten it to a heavy work surface.  This where you might not have the correct tool.  The socket to remove the nut that holds the sprocket, believe it was an inch and a half, needs to be modified.  Because the nut is so thin, the rounded opening of the socket needs to be cut flat so it engages the nut completely.  Once you’ve done that and use a breaker bar, you should have no problem removing the nut without heat.

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