[tony zambos]

You’re good. A 2-cycle engine basically needs gas with oil, air, compression and a spark to run.

[tony zambos]

Robert,
Maybe I didn’t understand your post. Are you turning the gear on the clutch? Resistance on the compression stroke as the piston reaches the top of the cylinder would be normal. However, turning the clutch drum gear should not cause the crankshaft to turn.

[tony zambos]

Coat the needle bearings with lithium grease.

[tony zambos]

Josh,
as a reference, download the article by John Savage on Rotax carbs. It’s pre-EVO. Go to http://www.karting1.co.uk/jetting-karting.htm and at the bottom of the page, click on Rotax Jetting Secrets. The floats are opaque so you’ll see fuel in the one that’s leaking. Use caution in putting the floats back in the carb, ALTO = UP.
Non-EVO things to check:
* fuel line that’s been pinched or kinked.
* fuel & pulse lines firmly seated at all the connections.
* Clogged fuel filter, either an external or internal to the carb.
* With engine running on the stand, wiggle the wire harnesses & the plug wire.
* Possible bad clutch.
* The idle and air screws on the carb set the same on both carbs.
* Nothing left inside the air box.
Good Luck.

[tony zambos]

Go thru the carb for any obvious issues like floats at the wrong height or one filling with fuel. Next try swapping batteries between karts and the carbs second.
And call your engine guy.

[tony zambos]

Omar,
Was anything else done to the motor besides installing the clutch?
How did you hold the crankshaft stationary while tightening the starter nut on the clutch?

[tony zambos]

Russ,
The pulse line is not involved when you try blowing fuel from the tank into the carb. Sounds more like a restriction in the line. If you could blow fuel into the carb and the engine would not run, then you might have a reed problem.

[tony zambos]

+1 on Jay’s comment. Their customer service is great and if you have the opportunity to attend one of their seminars, go.

[tony zambos]

Russ,
You maybe connecting the fuel pump incorrectly. At the hose connection with the arrow pointing in, you should be able to blow air in. At hose connection with the arrow point out of the pump, you shouldn’t able to blow in.

Start with two turns out on the air screw.

[tony zambos]

Mark,
the readings from several runs ranged from the 870’s to the 980’s. In Race Studio, the egt traces look the same with a lazy change in temperature.

A Mychron4 was used, but not with the short Mychron sensor. The sensor used was longer and easily reaches the center of the tube between the flange and can. Have used this type of egt probe in the past, many years ago, on kt100 pipe engines.

It’s still early in the examination of the session. We weren’t trying to get everything out of the engine but expected to see greater and faster changes in temp.

[tony zambos]

Another vote for the M4 with a GPS module. The M4-2t will get you two temp sensors and that’s probably all you’ll ever need. Or a basic M4 and add an expansion box in the future for three extra temp sensor ports.
Here’s a link to AIM videos. Ignore the Race Studio 3 stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/user/aimdata

[tony zambos]

Hopefully Steen is right. Don’t believe that there is a good deal of pressure in a Rotax radiator, so 110 is beyond the boiling point of water. You could carefully dip your water sensor in boiling water and see what it reads.
Check the water level and make sure there isn’t an air bubble in the system.

[tony zambos]

General piston info: https://new.ekartingnews.com/forums/topic/pailla-leopard-questions/

[tony zambos]

Remove the air filter and fuel line from the carb. Place the palm of one hand over the inlet to the carb and with the other hand hit the starter for 3 or 4 seconds. You should feel some suction.

If the plug is at all wet, replace it or remove it until it’s dry.

Is the throttle plate moving when the gas pedal is depressed?

[tony zambos]

I’m still assuming that you have a Leopard engine. If so, nothing is going to up and down in the carb. A slide type carb, which you should not have on this motor does have a plate the moves up with depressing the gas pedal. Your carb has a round plate in it that rotates on a shaft when the gas pedal is pressed. The resting position of the throttle plate closes the large opening thru the center of the carb. When pressing your gas pedal, you see the linkage on the outside of the carb move.
For now, your best bet is to let some one help you that can see and touch the motor.

[tony zambos]

David,
Lets start with a little background. When you got the motor, did it have a key start or was that something you added? Did you do the engine work or was it done by a kart shop? I’ll assume that you have the Leopard Overhaul manual plus the Assembly Instructions and User Manual.

Check the needle valves in the carb are properly set and that the butterfly is completely closed.

If you serviced the card, here is a link to a video to compare with what you have done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpkK2v3jI74.

It’s not uncommon to have an ignition failure on a Leopard. As a new comer, it might be wise to have a kart shop diagnose and repair your engine. Could also be cheaper going that route and will be less frustrating.

[tony zambos]

David,
If you’ve had the carb off, you may have reinstalled the gasket between the engine and carb incorrectly. There is a small hole in the engine block beneath the gasket and there is a corresponding hole in the gasket. Make sure the holes line up. You will also see the same hole in the carb. That passage port, or hole, is the pulse line for the fuel pump in the carb.
Also, check the ground wires.

[tony zambos]

Welcome new karter,
60 pounds difference could mean that both of you won’t fit in the same seat properly. A properly fitting seat and set placement is important. Knew two guys that did the same thing that you are planning. What they did was to alternated driving duties between race weekends. With that method, between weekends you could swap in the proper seat for the driver of the next weekend.
Chassis adjustments are not hard. Know which one and how much will be the problem.
For a class, look for one that runs a Yamaha kt100 with a can muffler, a KVP or the LO206 Briggs 4-cycle.
Have fun.

[tony zambos]

Thanks David. Have noticed that the “Howdy” message is back. Saw the “My EKN Profile” on the right side of the page and that by clicking on my name it takes me to my PM’s and Notifications the same way clicking on the blue dot on the header bar which is also back.

[tony zambos]

Walt,
What might work is if you have any email notifications of a PM. The link in the notification will take you to all of your PM’s

[tony zambos]

Set the kart up on the stand. Then put it on a flat, level surface. Get a buddy roughly your own weight to sit in the kart and roll it back and forth. Measure the kart again. Now you’ll know about how much the kart changes from the stand to the ground. In the future, set the kart up on the stand and allow for the differences.

[tony zambos]

Larry,
Congratulations. Like Rob said, you’re not the first and you won’t be the last. We all been our worst enemies at times. :)

[tony zambos]

If you’re sure the motor is not stuck, pull the clutch drum and inspect the ring gear for damaged teeth. Also pull the cover off the bendix and check it out. To remove the clutch drum without loosening the motor, unbolt the axle gear from it’s carrier and take the chain off. The ring gear can get bent. Turn the motor over by hand to see if the gear is bent.

If your engine never needs repair and you never have to change axle gears, your perfectly aligned engine will never have to removed. Good luck with that. :)

Still sounds like a week battery. Get a heavy gauge wire and put a connecter on one end that matches the one that comes off the starter motor. Take the other end of the wire and touch it to the positive terminal of the battery. Should crank. Did you repair the starter motor brushes or replace them? You also could have a dead spot in the starter motor.

[tony zambos]

Larry, first lets get our terms straight. The Rotax carb does not have a choke as you have seen on a carbureted car engine. This carb has a separate cold start fuel circuit. When the lever is horizontal, the circuit is disabled. When the lever is vertical, it’s enabled. If you’re getting extra fuel when the lever is horizontal, there is a problem with the card.
Tom Barth’s Green Flag Racing has closed its doors, but Tom has been kind enough to leave his web site up. It has reference material on the Dellorto carb that can be downloaded. The carbs in the articles are not exactly the same as the Rotax carb but they function in the same manor. http://greenflag.net/

[tony zambos]

Use the choke for the first start of the day. I’ve drained the float bowl several times a day after the first start in the morning to change jets. Never have had to use the choke a second time in the day. Go over the things Rob mentioned. Check the electricals as there is a chance you’re not getting spark. Has anything been done to the motor since it last ran?

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