[tony zambos]

Max rear axle width is 55.125 inches. Add a couple inches on both sides to allow clearence for the side pods.

[tony zambos]

Marty,
How many hours since the last top-end on this motor? Wondering if the current problem is being caused by low compression.

[tony zambos]

Jim, charge it once a month during the off season. Take it out of the charger as soon as you can after it charges. Mine has lasted over ten years that way without a problem.

[tony zambos]

Follow Chad and James’ advice. Call AIM first before sending the gauge in. If you have a voltmeter, make sure the batteries you are using are good.

[tony zambos]

.

[tony zambos]

You are not going to have starter problems you had with a Leopard. Have a fully charged battery and a spare. Rotax engines do not recharge the battery. You will have to learn how to jet the carb and you are good to go.

[tony zambos]

+1 for Miles, but on the way to or from the track.

[tony zambos]

+1 to Tim’s post.  You could also check with L.A.D Specialties in Bridgeview, http://www.ladspec.com/

 

[tony zambos]

Tim,

call AIM first before sending in your gauge.  Turn around from AIM is very good.  You should have your gauge back in time for your race.

 

[tony zambos]

Marty,

+1 for the other two suggestions.  Did you do anything else besides working on the starter like pulling out the plug or removing the carb?  From where did you purchase the replacement battery?  I’ve bought some from battery stores  that were useless on a Leopard

[tony zambos]

In English please

 

[tony zambos]

Jaime,

In a word, NO.  A couple of causes, the axle shifted and the rotor was dragging on a pad, or the rotor hub had shifted.  The should be equal clearance on both sides of the rotor to the pads. If that’s not it, could you be resting your foot on the brake pedal?  And there is a chance that one of the brake pistons got stuck.  Let us know what you find.

Please that this problem seriously as you could run out of brakes or the rotor could fail sending chuncks of metal at your fellow karters.

 

[tony zambos]

Jeff,

that a boy!  I’ll buy you a drink for that.

 

 

[tony zambos]

I probably shouldn’t respond to this thread, but what the heck.  We started out at a small track with a Briggs and a 357 chassis.  The extent of my racing knowledge was zero.  For almost any question I had at the track, I could get several different answers and some whacky reasons why. Even when I went to talk to John at John’s Kart Shop in Chicago, for what I thought would be a simple answer, John could give a twenty minute dissertation. I’d have to stop John because he had over saturated me with knowledge.

For those starting today, there is vast knowledge base waiting on the internet.  One of the best sources is this forum.  It’s still not going to be easy getting started.  You will have to learn your craft.  If you have a local kaft shop, use those people.  I started out making dozens of different length valves for the Briggs and a box full of cam shafts. Just concentrated on trying to make the motor go faster.  That was a mistake.  Going fast is paying attention to everything, the kart, the motor and the driver.

Russ, I’m not picking on you.  But if you are traveling 2-3 hours to a track, have a plan.  If there is only a couple of people that show up, that’s great.  You can try different chassis set ups.  Finding the set ups that are junk is almost as valuable as the ones that work great.  Try different gearing.  Try different lines.  Most importantly, make notes after every track sessions.

The rewards will not be instantaneous in this sport.  But with patience and had work, they will come.  Enjoy the racing and the friends at the track.

 

[tony zambos]

Anthony, think it’s time to find a shop that specializes in frame straightening.  I don’t believe that having one bearing hanger toed out will cause your problem.  The axle will center itself between the two hangers.  Suspect that the hangers are not in line, either not is the same horizontal or vertical plane.  In other words, either one hanger leads or trails the other or possible one is higher than the other.

Call the shop first so the shop can explain what condition he’ll want you to bring the kart in.

[tony zambos]

How much is the difference in chain tension is there from when the chain is at its loosest point to the point where it’s the tightest? At its loosest, measure the amount the chain travels up and down at a point halfway between the gears. At the same position, measure the chain when it’s at its tightest. Does it go from 40 mm to 5 or does it go from 25 mm to 10?

You indicated that the problem occurs every rotation and a half. Of what, the axle or drive gear? But either way it doesn’t make sense. If the problem was the drive gear, with every rotation of if the chain should tighten. And rotating the drive gear would get you a half turn on the axle. Sorry, but you can only have one bend in the axle. Rotating the axle should get you over seven turns of the drive gear.

Think you’re at a point for some careful measuring. Check the axle for run out and then the gear carrier on the axle. With new gears, check their alignment. I’m guessing you’ll find the drive gear is either toed in or out. The wear pattern on the front sprockets should give you an indication.

Good luck.

[tony zambos]

Depends on the type of axle, thin wall or thick. For a thick walled axle, position the axle where you want it, remove the grub screws from the axle bearing on one side of the kart. My preference would be the brake side. Drill the axle through the grub screw holes and run a tap that is the same size as the grub screw, through the axle bearing and into the axle. Get longer grub screws and Loctite them in. On the other hand, for a thin walled axle, use a locking collar on both sides of one of the axle bearings.

 

[tony zambos]

Since there is no software option in the gauge to correct this, think your best option is to call AIM at 1.800.718.9090

[tony zambos]

Start with calling AIM in Roanoke for instructions on how to send your gauge in.

 

[tony zambos]

if you must have an external starter, there is one being sold on the formun.

https://new.ekartingnews.com/forums/topic/coleman-starter/

 

[tony zambos]

Eric,

Before you start digging around, swap the water sensors and leads to the gauges to see if the problem moves with the swap. Make note of the path the leads take to the gauge.  Next, swap gauges between karts.

[tony zambos]

At this point, what have you got to loose by removing and opening up the starter?  The armature could be bad, but most often it’s a broken brush.  If you have 12 volts at the starter when the button is pressed, you have an open circuit in the starter.  Can’t argue the point of an external starter.  You’ll never miss the start of a race with one. But having the on-board is nice if you ever spin.

 

[tony zambos]

Chad, thanks for the video.

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