[tony zambos]

Mike,
I can post them on EKN, but it would be faster and easier if I sent them your email address or phone. PM me with either you email address or phone.

[tony zambos]

Mike,
The module was in working order at the end of our 2016 season and has spent the 2017 season in its original box. Sold my MyChron4 over the weekend, so I have no means of testing it now. The connecters are in excellent condition.
To save on shipping costs, can ship via USPS flat rate using the small box costing $7.99 if you don’t mind no having the original box. The next size up box costs $13.60 but it would hold the original box. Let me know if you need pictures.

[tony zambos]

Rod,

My Monday has become more hectic than normal .. BUT I call today. Maybe not until early evening, but I will call.

[tony zambos]

Frank,
If you’re still looking, I have a Mychron4-2T with the data key, RPM sensor, infrared lap sensor and a Y-cable for two sensors. Asking $225 + shipping. PayPal preferred.
Also have a GPSO5 GPS lap sensor, an AiM infrared beacon and an M4 eBox with an axle sensor. $320 + shipping for everything.

[tony zambos]

Make a significant change in your gear ratio to determine if the shutter occurs at the same speed or same RPM.
Check for worn gears, worn chain or too much slack in the chain.

[tony zambos]

Leave a post under the EKN FEEDBACK forum.

[tony zambos]

Talk to your engine builder for what’s best for him. My engines will normally go into the shop sometime in the winter and come out in the spring in time for our first race. Some engine builders are going to be busy between now and the end of December getting ready for Daytona. Other builders may have commitments for the early part of the year. Don’t wait until the last minute before your first race next year to bring your engine in for a rebuild.

[tony zambos]

We’ve had an OTK chassis for the last few years. Have noticed some reaction between the axle and its components. To prevent this, I pull the axle and coat it with WD40. As for the hubs, gear carrier and rotor, they get put into plastic freezer and left in the trailer.

[tony zambos]

Jason, found it impossible to PM you.
Keep me in mind if you don’t find the Kosmic steering wheel. We purchased a new Tony Kart wheel this year and have five race weekends on it. In good condition and can send pictures if desired.

[tony zambos]

Bob, my chassis have always spent the Chicago winter in an unheated garage. I pull the engine, put a couple drops of Marvel Mystery down the spark plug hole, throw the plug back in, wrap the engine in a plastic bag and hide in the basement. Although there were a couple of times the engine sat in the garage. Come next year, rebuild the carb. Word of advice, if you have a water cooled engine, drain ALL the water out of it. Drain the fuel tank. You might consider dis-mounting your tires. I’ve left them mounted up and found corrosion along the bead the next season.

[tony zambos]

Thanks for the update. We had gone for years without ever having a problem with a coil until this year. At the exit of a high speed turn, the engine had a hesitation. Turned out to be the coil.
Glad you sorted out your problem.

[tony zambos]

When you try to re-fire it and it doesn’t start, is the plug wet? Make sure there are no cracks in the pulse line. You’ll need more than two hands for the next check. While cranking the engine over, choke the carb. If it doesn’t start, there should be some gas dripping out the carb. When the engine doesn’t fire, can you get a spark grounding the plug to a fin? Pull the side cover off and check for a broken coil wire and for excessive up and down movement of the crank. If you have someone that can loan you a working coil, try it.
When you turn the motor by hand, does it seem to have its normal compression? If not, pull the head.
And don’t ignore the work you’ve already done. The new plug could be bad and the carb may not be assembled correctly.

Good Luck

[tony zambos]

Andrew, thanks for the follow up. You’ve had an adventure, learned a little and your wife’s kart is running better. You’ve come out ahead.

[tony zambos]

There is a steering shaft locking collar that’s available.
https://cometkartsales.com/I.-0115.00-Steering-Column-Locking-Collar.html

[tony zambos]

Let’s toss another variable into the equation. How’s the clutch on your wife’s kart? If the engagement point is too low, the engine is going to be slow to build rev’s and if it’s set too high you’re wasting power.

[tony zambos]

In theory, I suppose you could modify the YBX. But look at some other things first. Take one of your SSX engines and try it on her kart. It could be the kart or its setup or that engine needs a rebuild. You could also try just putting one of your SSX cans on her motor. And before you start drilling on the YBX, see if anyone local has a used SSX they’re willing to sell you. I’ve got at least one extra I could part with and I’m guessing there are some near you as well.

[tony zambos]

Have you read the FAQ’s?

[tony zambos]

We ran 219 chain with a Rotax. On certain tracks the chain would be completely dry at the end of the race. If we would have run another road race season, I think I’d have put one on.
Try contacting L.A.D. Specialties, 708-430-1588. They have made them for their karts. In the long run, believe that using an oiler will save you $$ by using chain saw oil as opposed to the expensive stuff in a spray can. The trick to using one is getting the flow rate right and on the chain. Also consult with the organizations and tracks you’re involved with to see if an oiler is allowed.

[tony zambos]

David’s suggestion would be the best solution. Your solution isn’t bad but double check the spec’s on the hoist for it to be able to lift the kart from the ground to both the trailer and kart stand, that you enough clearance between the hoist and kart.
Look at the long term, the hoist may work but consider being at the track. Every time you go to the grid, you’ll have to bring both the kart stand and the hoist, and again when you finish the track session.
Keep an eye on the Classifieds on EKN or on any local club for a used one. You might even want to post in the WTB section. Check any local kart shops if they might have one to sell or know of someone who does.

[tony zambos]

Chris,
I’m assuming that the rear door to your trailer hinges on the side rather than on the bottom. Years ago, someone posted a picture of his trailer that installed an I-Beam lengthwise in the trailer that would slid out past the rear of the trailer. On that beam he installed a pulled which would allow him to pick the his kart and slide it into the trailer. But that seemed to a bit over engineered.

Have you thought about anchoring the kart to a kart stand and with a set of ramps, roll everything into the trailer? After the stand is in the trailer, anchor in down to travel.

In our case, we put in a 4×8 shelf in the trailer. We left enough space under the shelf to fit the normal plastic crate. The shelf turned out to be almost the right height to roll the kart up on the stand and push the kart in. Have seen another version of this where short cabinets were installed on both sides of the trailer and the kart sat on top of the cabinets.

But none of those options address getting the kart on the ground. A one man lift would be an option with a shelf in the trailer. You then could go from the ground, onto the shelf, off of the shelf and back onto the ground. My question with that solution is how easy would it be to unhook and hook the kart to the stand on the shelf. I’d give Tim a call at KartLift about that, 877-777-8020.

One more option. Get a buddy the lives near you hooked on karting. :)

[tony zambos]

I’m guessing, but a big change for you is the lack of a rear differential. It’s just mere combination of caster, chassis stiffness and axle. :)
You may have not realized how critical seat placement is. Check you chassis manufacture’s web site for recommendations. If it’s near the recommendations, leave it for now, but keep that in mind if you’re struggling with handling issues.

[tony zambos]

Here is a link to a video on checking pop-off. It’s not for a Walbro but the idea is the same. http://kart360.com/features/tech-tips-presented-by-p1-engines

[tony zambos]

Your basic idea is OK for the starting positions of the jets. You’ll probably get down to an 1/8 on the HI end although leaving it a 1/4 is safe for starters. You may even get down to almost having the HI end closed. It will depend on the length on the straights. The LOW and HI end jets have different profiles. Leave the stock HI end in the carb and replace the LOW end needle valve with the flex-T. You’ll do most of your tuning with the low end. Never crank the needle valves into their seats. Turn them gently into their seats and never force them past that point.
You didn’t say whether you’re running a pipe or can muffler. Either way, suggest that you install an EGT probe in the exhaust. Don’t bother to trying to read the temps as you’re driving as it will be changing faster than you can keep track off. But after a few sessions, you’ll see in Race Studio what your highest temp is and then set an alarm light on your gauge to slightly above that. That will help avoiding a stuck piston, especial with a pipe. The EGT should rise as long as you accelerate. If it drops, you’re too lean. If it rises in corners, the kart is over stuck.
As for pop-off, some racers will say it’s important, others say you need some. 9.5 psi is a good place to start. Spray WD-40 on the needle valve when testing the pop-off. Use a paper towel over the open end of the carb so you don’t get soaked with WD-40. The fulcrum height should be .045″ below the carb body without the gasket.
TIP: Don’t plan on the engine to make you the fastest guy out there. Driving and chassis setup is where the performance is.

Good luck and have fun

[tony zambos]

A couple of suggestions.

1. Use the Forum’s WTB (Want to Buy) section. List the size and the manufacturer of the tires you would care to purchase. Include your city or zip code so the seller can give you an idea of shipping costs. The last time I shipped tires, the cost was about $40.

2. Ask the people at your track if they have used tires to sell. They would probably want to make a couple of dollars selling the tires to you instead to paying money to have them recycled.

3. If you plan on having your son race at some point, know what tires are required.

4. If you have a kart shop that visits your track, or there is a kart shop near you, give them a call.

5. You might just have to buy a new set. They’ll last longer for you. You are also going to need special tools the did-mount and mount the next set of tires. This is where friends at the track or a local kart shop would come in handy.

Good luck

[tony zambos]

As you probably suspect, this wear is not normal. They should be wearing evenly. Are these the pads that came with the kart and have you done anything to the brake system?
Because there is one piston per side, the pads should be pushed straight in. Replace the pads and the special bolt that goes through them. Look for any issues with the caliper during the replacement that would prevent the pads from moving in straight and that both pistons are functioning. Center the rotor between the pads when your done. Acquire a brake bleeder and brake fluid. Believe you have an EVK and that should have DOT 5 brake fluid in it. Unscrew the brake reservoir caps and if the fluid looks purple, it’s DOT5. Between three day race weekends, I bleed our brakes.
Now, watch the wear pattern.
FYI – Rebuilding the master cylinder and the caliper is fairly simple. Bleeding them can be a pain.

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