[Walt Gifford]

I feel you guys pain. I bought a legal Rotax back in 2009 because I wanted to become a Rotax service center. The deal fell through because of politics at F!NJ and glad it did from what I’ve read about how service center get hung out to dry. Anyway inside of a year the engine needed $900 in upgrades to be legal for RMC. Took me a while to sell it to a guy who runs auto cross but, so glad I got out from under Rota$, what a money pit.

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[Walt Gifford]

If your bearings have grit they always will until you take off the shields and completely clean them. Then they will be clean for about 3 track sessions.

Get new bearings with rubber seals and you’ll never have grit again. New bearings don’t need break in. The grease is all through the bearing making it stiff but the grease will move when the bearing gets warm and free up first time you’re on track. Using light oil will cause your bearing to chatter and bind so, get bearings with rubber seals, put them in as is.

If you just want the axle to spin forever on the kart stand clean out all the grease and spray with wd40 but, grease is faster on the track.

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[Walt Gifford]

I took the regular 8mm flange nuts and turned the diameter down on a lathe to fit my CRG wheels. You could use non flange nuts with very thick washers that won’t bend.

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[Walt Gifford]

From 72 to 32 is 40 degrees, from 72 to 372 is 300 degrees also the expansion of aluminum is much greater than the contraction of steel. Freezing the bearing will do almost nothing except create condensation, not recommended.

First thing is to clean the recessed area so the bearing can come out and remove the wheel studs. When you heat the hub, heat it quickly before the bearings absorb too much heat and expand. Pre heat the oven to 400 then put it in for 15 minutes, if it doesn’t go, put it back in for 10 min. It will get smokey from the bearing grease.

If it’s still difficult, move the spacer to one side then knock the bearing out by hitting the inner race with a drift punch or steel rod. Don’t let the bearing tilt too much. Once the first one is out the spacer will fall out to give you access to the other bearing. Work quickly as heat will be transferring to the bearings.

Pressing in the new bearings can be done cold. Press the bearing that sits flush first until it seats. Drop in and center the spacer. The second bearing is where the magic happens. The inner and outer races of both bearings have to be held in alignment. The proper pressing tool will center the spacer while pressing the inner and outer races evenly until it seats on the spacer. Now when you tighten your axle nut there is no pre-load on the bearings.

You can drop them in by heating the hub and maybe get lucky but if you tighten the axle nut and the hub binds up you’ll have to try again and heating the assembly to get the bearings out hurts the grease.

Hope that helps,
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[Walt Gifford]

If you’re going from bread box to unico I think all you have to do is cut the bottom “L” off the bracket and drill a couple of new holes.

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[Walt Gifford]

I would have to think it got recycled and given to someone else inside of 9 years. If it means that much why don’t you just have a trophy made. Maybe you can find some pics of what it might have looked like.

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[Walt Gifford]

Upgreads LOL almost missed that.

[Walt Gifford]

Couldn’t find any good pics, is it a secret what it looks like?

[Walt Gifford]

I always ran 4oz per gallon on a Rotax although I think the manual even recommends less.

You shouldn’t mix different synthetic oils with each other but you can mix castor with synthetic. The thing is you don’t know what is in the other fuel so don’t mix anything with it if it’s going to sit over night. Use the old stuff until your tank gets low then use the new stuff. You don’t have to purge your system or do anything special except check your jetting as mentioned above.

Keep one bottle marked “premix only” that way three weeks from now when you’re scratching your head wondering if there’s oil in that (clear looking) gas, you’ll know for sure by the bottle it’s in.

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[Walt Gifford]

http://www.coyotekarts.com/index.php/kart-chassis

There you go young man.

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[Walt Gifford]

They make small aluminum tanks you can bolt on the belly pan.

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[Walt Gifford]

Newton’s first law of motion is working against you.

[Walt Gifford]

Best dyno is use your DA at the track.

[Walt Gifford]

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[Walt Gifford]

I doubt it, they would be super light and cost twice as much. I had a set made by DAP kart you had to keep tires on them or they would float away.

If I remember, I knew a guy who powder coated some wheels and they became almost impossible to mount and bead tires on. If you do it, stop off the entire inside and outside rim of the wheel and also where the nuts seat down.

I’ve used the epoxy paint with good results. Surface prep is everything and use a mask made for organic vapors and try not to breath when you’re shooting it down wind while running backwards.

Enamel spray can from Walmart is $2 and looks good from 5′ away. Spray 3 very very light tack coats then build up enough coats to fill in the color. let it dry for a couple of weeks and it will be hard as nails.

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[Walt Gifford]

You should get into a shifter as soon as possible. At 16 you’re getting a late start on a Formula 1 career.

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[Walt Gifford]

It’s too expensive for the 10-20HP people and the big money people won’t buy it because it’s 100cc.

I like how they say it runs cooler because it has a compact combustion chamber lol.

A low compression air cooled piston port with a tilly carb, onboard starter and box muffler on pump gas with a bullet proof dry clutch for $1000 is the perfect kart engine you will never see anyone make.

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[Walt Gifford]

If they are pure magnesium (rare) I would paint them with klasskote two part epoxy paint. Mag alloy or anything else shoot it with a rattle can from walmart.

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[Walt Gifford]

I should be grandfathered in since I was around when retard was PC and the term PC wasn’t around. I think they’re called differently abled now? I’ve seen shows where he was doing mechanic stuff. Gear heads aren’t stupid because their clothes are dirty, machines are greasy.

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[Walt Gifford]

I think one race weekend is all you get.

[Walt Gifford]

Ha, you ask a question then suddenly you’re an expert. The only heat treating, if you can call it that, they do on kart frames is to draw the temper out of the welds by localized heating to 1100F. Normalization of 4130 tubing happens at around 1650F. 850F should not effect a kart frame at all although, I can imagine a painter selling you a line of BS about 850F then cranking up the heat to make it easy to peal.

Still the same old kart under the pretty paint. Did I spell everything rite?

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[Walt Gifford]

You can’t heat treat or un-heat treat chomalloy it’s not high carbon steel it’s alloy steel.

[Walt Gifford]

The reason they went to 50mm is to make a more flexible axle for heavy rubber on the euro tracks. If you don’t have that kind of traction happening at your track 40mm is an advantage in reduced bearing friction, less rotating mass and the availability of axle bearings with rubber seals.

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[Walt Gifford]

“A racetrack, presumably managed by racers would want to encourage racing and leave arrive and drive as a portal for newbies”.

I think you’re confused, the track is a play ground for the rich. They have the tennis courts, swimming pool, go kart rides, villas, security guards, fine dining and a place to drive your sports car.

There have been several grass root karting programs that have been priced right out of the park. The managers I knew that were racers have quit or been let go.

[Walt Gifford]

http://cdn.opentip.com/Tools-Home-Improvement/Prism-Enterprises-Mv-Stem-Compression-Tester-p-3616831.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjw8aeiBRCknPXk-u_V_4gBEiQAD2-mgQCAOx5XB1GibA2i6Pjk5mlnDDYzIjtqfRJElnFMbmEaAv3N8P8HAQ

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