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Don’t even waste your time bleeding it, most likely it will have all kinds of rust inside the pistons and calipers.

Your best bet is to take all the hydraulics apart, hone your cylinders and replace all seals. You can find cylinder cups from an auto parts from a rear wheel cylinder rebuild kit that will fit that diameter, and for the master cylinder seals you will have to contact a kart parts supplier, they can still get those old kart seals, just ask them.

And for your bleeding procedure, just buy a turkey baster, remove the plunger and use it as a funnel screw the tip into the threads and fill it up, jack up the front end of the kart put a wooden block underneath and start gravity bleeding your rear calipers. Then lower the kart down again, and start doing the front calipers.

Here’s a store that has your seals, contact them, or if you already know your size then just order them from their website.

Good luck.     http://fastech-racing.com/brake-seals/

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Bryan

Are you gonna be in Santa Maria this weekend?

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Bryan

Do you still have this engine package? Sounds like a smoken’ deal

Does it come with everything I need to just bolt on and go? Or do I need to buy anything else to complete the project? Thanks.

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Yes, just start from scratch, that engine may be getting tired, besides it leaks oil, and it seems to have a few issues.

I have a brand new complete package, with everything you need to just bolt on and go, and with a mount that you can adjust however you want, Plus I will set up for the correct clutch driver gear, and rear sprocket. And carb/float adjustments.

I tell you, it is kind of nice to know you are the one guy that was doing the engine break-in process.

We are going to CalSpeed tomorrow. Interested?

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Clark, Very well said, and than you all for your valuable info

I totally agree, and yes from now on Amsoil is what I will continue to run, and yes you’re right I would only be saving a couple of bucks, and compared to some other expenses is not bad at all, besides I’m already saving a lot on tires.

Thank you guys.

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I highly doubt it, with the classes as big as they are, and people happy with that formula, I think it’s all rumors.

People been talking about low supply for almost a decade now, they were doing the same thing back whey the 99 engine was ran, and no changes.

Car. Where did you hear this at? Unless there is a headline news or announcement about it from Tom or a supplier I would have a hard time believing it. This formula is still very strong and still growing fast.

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Yeah, you can’t remove the cylinder or the piston out of it, you can only remove the head, and that won’t get you anywhere.

Maybe Marty doesn’t know that this engine is a spec/sealed motor and you cannot open it.

I was gonna suggest to loosen all the bolts on the side cover and crack it open so that William could clean up and squeeze some ultra grey sealant in there and then re tighten it, but you can’t even twist those bolts at all due to the cable on the engine spec seals.

 

Best thing to do is cut the factory seals off, refreshen the engine, re seal it and use it as a back up or practice motor. Then buy a new one, that way you won’t have any problems for at least 3 years, you may get 5 years if you take real good care of it.

I have a brand new package available, or just the motor long block by itself, if you’re interested William.

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You’re right, it will be hard for us to give you any advise with out any pictures

Is this an ad from Craigslist by any chance?

If so, you can just copy and paste the ad for us to look at it.

Welcome to the sport.

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Awesome!

Thank you.

Builders sometimes can get very emotional, and they get their feelings hurt when you ask questions Lol, they thing you may be questioning their ability to thing or how they perform.

Hitting the rev limiter at the end of the straight away is ok, but it is a lot better if you hit it a lot sooner, like at the start/finish line or a little bit passed that. And that will help you get off the corners faster, till you get smoother and faster.

Now keep in mind the fast guys may run a much taller gear, but they are very good drivers, smooth and do not make too many mistakes, plus their chassis is most likely very well tuned, so yeah that sprocket will work for them very well, but not for a newbie.

Are you gonna race this Sunday at Button Willow? This would be a good practice race, besides we’re racing in Bakersfield Saturday night, and head over to Button Willow in the morning if you wanna join us?

 

 

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From now on. Forget what your builder said. He’s not the one driving the kart

You’ll get good info here, and with the guys at the track.

Find out what the fast guys are running, take a good look at them and see how fat and short, or tall they are. You can learn a lot from the guys that are kicking your butt.

You still haven’t answer my previous questions I asked, about how heavy or tall you are, year and model kart, etc. This is really important if you want your questions answered, I really meant it.

And it will make it a lot easier to stay on one topic, just ad a new question, that way you’re not all over the place. Glad to help.

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55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61 and 62

We only run 16 tooth driver.

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William

We’re racing this Saturday night in Bakersfield, there is self contained/dry camping available, and the owner will give a discount to the out of town guys.

We’re planning to race here Saturday night, then me and a group of guys go Sunday morning and race at Button Willow with the Fresno guys that you raced with last.

Do you wanna go? You know you want more seat time. Lol.

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Yeah, It is very hard to pass, there is something about that track though

I have a love/hate relationship with it Lol.

But it can totally make a good driver out of you for sure.

Kevin Harvick used to race there as a young boy.

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Eric Would you take $200 cash for it?  ( old style manual stand )

I can pick it up Saturday at CalSpeed if you’re there for the PKC Skusa race.

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How tall and heavy are you? What is the measurement from axle to back of seat lip? How high is the seat from the bottom frame rails? How many spacer do you have on the front spindles? What air pressures are you running and How old are the tires? What year make and model is your kart?

I’m not joking, please answer all these questions and we’ll take it from there buddy.

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Yeah, looks like you’re gonna have to clean real good underneath, grind it down so that the sealant or JB weld you use will stick to it.

Good luck.

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Ok

One more thing, this is gonna sound stupid, but the only stupid question is the one that doesn’t get asked right?

How tight are both yellow oil filler caps? If not tight enough it will seep oil down the seam and gasket area.

How much oil did you put in the engine, when you filled up?

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