[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Here’s your bleeding procedure

Go to the store and buy a turkey baster, remove the rubber squeeze ball on top and throw it away

Remove the top screw at rear master cylinder/pump, turn and screw in tip of turkey baster

Fill it up like a funnel, all the way to the top

Remove the top screws Walt said at the rear calipers, you can only bleed the top ones

Pick up the kart from the front and put a 4×4 under the frame to create higher level

Let the fluid run at the caliper top bolts and pay close attention to the turkey baster, not to run dry. I would run 2 cycles of the funnel to clean all that junk out, and to make sure no more air is in the system.

Put the screw back in at the top part whichever rear caliper you decided to bleed first

Repeat the same procedure at the other side caliper.

Seal the other side caliper bleed screw when done, please remember never to run the turkey baster funnel dry, in fact when you’re done, please make sure there’s a bit left inside of it, so that when you remove funnel it will drain out of it, rather than not having enough fluid and letting air into the master cylinder.

When turkey baster/funnel removed, please re install filler screw back to master cylinder, make sure no debris goes inside, and pay attention so that washer or seal is still in good shape

Rear brake system completed, Congratulations, now move on to front brake system:

 

Remove piece of 2×4 from front of kart

Remove front master cylinder filler screw, install that FAMOUS TURKEY BASTER

Remove 2 front caliper top allen head bolts, fill up turkey baster with brake fluid

This may be a bit harder to bleed, since level is about the same for gravity bleed

Blow with your mouth on top of that famous turkey baster to force fluid flow

Sometimes you gotta do that to get’em going

Same procedure, just do 2 cycles and seal it back up, and be done with it.

That’s my 2 cents, good luck!

If that doesn’t work, then by the look of your calipers on the outside, then you may have to take all the calipers apart, hone them and rebuild the seals, and master cylinder too

And when you’re done, go back to your new best friend

( THE TURKEY BASTER!!!!!!!!!! )

Fast Freddy.

 

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Yeah, I agree, Remove some caster too

And that would be a good starting point to start tuning the chassis

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Fix your rear track to 54.5

If you have a rear torsion bar, remove it and throw it in the trash can

Remove front torsion bar and save for other time

Remove another small spacer from front inside spindle, and put it outside

Try that and let us know what happened

This should be a good start. My 2 cents.

Fast Freddy.

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How wide is the rear track? From outside wheel lip to outside wheel lip?

What engine are you running?

Are you running seat struts?

Are you running front and rear torsion bars?

I can give you some advise, but I need those answers first. Fast Freddy.

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Amen to that!!!!!

That’s already a blessing in itself

That is priceless, keep doing what you’re doing, and if the boy keeps doing well, then that’s awesome.

And if he won once, he can do it again with your support and encouragement.

 

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James

If the kart still kicks butt just drive the darn thing, and let it enjoy life some more

And if the scaling is off, but not too bad, just try to compensate for it, and go kick some more butt

I absolutely enjoy seeing a low budget kart kicking butt.

In my book, if it’s not broken don’t fix it, if it works great, and handles awesome, and will do whatever you want it to do, then just drive it, don’t change anything.

 

Sometimes my Son has issues with his kart, and after we find something that he’s happy with, we stick with it. I ask him if it made any difference? And he sais I LOVE IT, PLEASE DON’T CHANGE ANYTHING.

So there you go. A kart could be out of whack and  maybe undriveable to me, but sometimes with his driving style he can make it drive like if that piece of junk is on traction control!!! Smooooth operator.

So if he likes it, and he does very well with it, and gets good results?

Then use it and abuse it till he’s ready for an upgrade. My 2 cents

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TJ

That’s what I was wondering, and I also think you’re right with the chassis not being accurate right out of the box.

They almost look like a good kart, but unfortunately the chassis is not designed to twist and flex like the Top Quality brand names.

Sorry, James, not trying to sound negative, but you may be fighting something that could be a bit frustrating

You could try to fix it and make it drivable and fun, who knows? it may be a good handling kart after all, but know that it may not last, and  TJ  is right, it was designed to be affordable for a low budget and an entry level chassis.

 

What engine package are you running, James?

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Isn’t a RoadRat Kart a Chinese manufactured chassis?

If that is the case, the metal structure may have been compromised and will bend back again, or crack due to fatigue

I could be wrong, but if this is the kart I am thinking of, they were selling by the truck load for cheap, and at some point there was some track support and promoting, but have not heard from them again.

 

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Sebastian

I’m located in Bakersfield Ca.

We had 3 shifter karts, just sold an Arrow Kart with a s tock Honda 125cc shifter package for dirt cheap, as we changed classes.

San Jose is not too far  from us, as we sometimes go to Infenion/ Sonoma/ Sears point

What are you looking for?

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We have 2 rear tires ( used/almost new)

I think they were only mounted and rolled on the track for 1 lap?

These are the same size as rear shifter kart

Will take $65 plus shipping.

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Thank you, Tony

I think I will, I was trying to give FASTENAL some business, but it looks like they don’t need it.

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JR

Sorry, I got confused as in your original post you stated WTB or WTT, and that indicated to me that you would do either way, but that’s cool, I would probably do the same thing first.

 

You may wanna try the auto cross/ solo section, you’d be surprised

Good luck man.

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I have no use for the tires and wheels, but I have about 3 different karts to choose from

What is your budget on a complete turn key kart ?

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*Top end………… Try to do it more often than every 25 Hrs, if you wanna stay competitive

*Bottom end……….. Seems about right, as you mentioned

*Brake fluid……………….Check it every time you get the kart ready for the track, but you’ll find out soon enough that it will require a flush a lot sooner than a year. Almost every 4 to 6 months. These brake systems work on some extreme temperatures and abuse.

*Transmission fluid…………… Every other track day, or every other race. ( NO MORE THAN 2 )

* Fuel filter………………….. Every 4 to 6 months

That should get you in pretty good shape, and be more reliable.

Hope this helps.

 

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James

Check your spindle king pins and bearings, we had the same issue a week ago with my Son’s kart

Even though everything was fine on the practice sessions when he did his first race, he came back to the pits with a horrible NEG camber, we patched up the best we could, by maximizing POS camber all the way out, just to compensate for that problem, and just to get him back in the race

But when we brought the kart back to the shop we replaced the spindle bearings and the king pin, sniped it and now it’s ready to go.

The problem you’re having is due to POSITIVE or NEGATIVE camber, depending on where the tire is wearing at ( INSIDE OR OUTSIDE ) Either way, you need to grab the tire while it is still attached to the kart and apply force to it up and down

If you have some amount of movement or significant amount of play, then replace the bearings inside the spindle where the king pin goes, and also replace the king pin, just to be safe. You’d be surprised, ours came out looking like a bottle opener. Lol.

Good luck, I hope this works for you.

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Hey, Guys

The track Bryan is referring to is an extremely tight, difficult, sprint track, with almost no room for relaxation, and the only straight away is not really straight

And to top it off there are a couple of very aggressive left handed corners followed by a big double sweeper, with some elevation and a hairpin that comes down the hill just like the Cork Screw ( very technical track )

I’ve had the pleasure of driving our shifter karts there in the past, and I tell you, what a work out it is.

We currently run there in a different class now, and if I can get 4 races out of a new tire set, I’d be very lucky ( MASSIVE TIRE WEAR ) Even if you had the perfect kart set up.

So, if some of you are getting 7 races per set, then that’s awesome! As I know it can get very expensive.

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Brandon

Have you ever driven any type of karts ( in doors, out doors ) ?

Or have any type of racing experience at all ?

If not, I recommend going to a place that has slower 4 cycle engine karts first, just to get an idea of the driving style, and cornering, braking, etc.

You’d be surprised in how skillful you can get by practicing, not to mention this could help you narrow down what kind of chassis you wanna get.

 

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Hi, Brandon

Welcome to the sport

I honestly think your best bet would be http://www.bakersfieldkartraceway.com

Check out their website, this is an awesome kart club, and it’s not too far from you

Adams kart track and Cal speedway could be a bit of a distance for you

Bakersfield is just down the grape vine from you, passed Frazier Park.

Do you have a kart yet? In the market for one? Decided which one to get yet?

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Hey, Bryan!

This is Fast Freddy

Just weld it and you’re good to go, no biggie at all

It probably cracked from going too fast, I noticed as I couldn’t catch you

Something had to give Lol. ( Man you were flying!!! )

Another thing to look for is your spindle bearings, they do brake, remove the tie rod ends from spindle and move the spindle side by side, also make the tire straight, grab it and try to move it up and down, if it has significant amount of play

Replace the spindle bearings and king pins.

Hope that helps?

Good race, last Saturday night, Buddy, good job.

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Hi, Adam

The installation is pretty easy, you can use the same bushings inside the frame

All you have to do is remove the old bumper by removing the big allen bolt,  install the new style bracket with the flat part towards the rear ( you may need to buy new longger bolts to reach all the way inside the frame rails

Once you determine the length then tighten the bolts but leave them lose enough so that you can turn the brackets to align with the brackets that attach to the plastic bumper

Once you know it’s gonna fit, the go into town and torque it for good

Slide the bumper brackets inside the bumper asy, then put the bolt and washers in the bumper to secure.

Install bumper to frame rail brackets, and leave them snug, NOT TIGHT AT ALL, you need play, it needs to be lose for flexibility.

You’re done, I hope this helps.

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Dylan

I don’t auto cross at all, but I have seen how it’s done.

Knowing what kind of regulations there are for clutches will determine to point you in the right direction

If there are no regulations, then disregard my comment, and find the most durable and tough clutch you can get

I personally do like the Steell Nytro 3 or 4 disc clutch, if I recall it correctly they were purple/burgundysh in color, with the black drum?

I absolutely loved them, as they were very durable and tough, but the class we currently run with uses a different spec clutch.

I think you should continue to use that old Horstman Steel Nytro clutch till it breaks, and then buy a brand new one with a 4 disk, and adjust your stall speed to your best liking. That’s just my opinion. Hope that helps.

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Justis

Welcome to the sport

The guys here are right, very often you will find good advise and help here, as it is a family oriented sport.

It is very important for you to figure out what class you wanna run, or the level of racing you wanna compete in.

If you just wanna be the weekend warrior, get some track time at the local track at a club level, then any decent, not too abused chassis will do.

But if you wanna stay competitive at the national level, then you will need a new chassis

It all depends on what you wanna do, and how much your budget is

The other big factor is: Have you ever driven a shifter kart before? or have any karting experience? They are very brutal to drive and unforgiving at times, some times you loose control and spin out before you even know it ( reaction times are really fast )

Please give us a little more info, so that we can help

I sent you a PM. Good luck, Freddy.

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Paul

If you don’t mind me asking you, taking in consideration that every case was different with your 5 karts

How much did you pay each time?

Thanks, Freddy.

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Thank you guys

These are all very good inputs, and good options

I’m gonna work on some palleting and creating for dimensions, for a better accurate deal.

I have heard of people getting them shipped anywhere from $250 to $500, so we’ll see. Thank you all. Freddy.

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Ray

If your seat feel pretty snugged and firmly tight it’s probably ok

Deep seats are designed to hug your rib cage and upper body, that’s why you have to enter them in an angle sideways, before you sit inside of them.

Anyhow, if you feel that you fit firmly tight, they you may be ok

As for your knee caps and legs hugging the fuel tank goes? Please buy a good set of heel stops, or a good set of foot rests, you’d be surprised on how much they can help knowing that your legs are firmly placed and supported, especially under braking and cornering.

Right now your upper body is doing all the work, and can’t really concentrate in driving.

 

Try that first. Good luck. Please let us know how it goes.

Freddy.

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