[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Well, Thank you all for all your awesome imput

I decided to go with a MAC tools impact with a 1/2 inch drive, and an addaptor extenssion down to 3/8 to fit all my sockets, knowing that guns get weaker in time, I rather have a strongger gun

Not to mention I totally understand about the final torque by hand, but my concern is taking them off, it does get old when you do it a lot, so I just rather hit it with the gun and have them come right off.

 

Thank you all, FastFreddy.

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John

I was just about to post the same question, cool, you beat me to it

I wondered the same thing, and last week I had the Mac tools guy all excited to sell me a cordless impact 3/8 gun

So I took the first choice he had and stepped out of the truck to try it on 3 of my go karts ( front and rear tires) Now all the wheel nuts were done by me, by hand from the previous race we went to

Anyhow, to my surprise the gun could not undo the nuts, on any of the three karts, front or rear tires

So I came back into the Tool truck to pick up the 2nd option, which was a much more expensive, and more heavy duty, and of course could not take the nuts off!!!!!!

So I told the guy I can’t buy any of these guns, as they won’t do me any good at the pitts

Both impact guns I tried had fully charged batteries, and brand new, I am a regular customer from some of these Snap on, and Mac Tool truck, and I was fortunate to test them before purchasing, so I’m glad I did.

 

Can some body chime in here and let us know what kind of battery powered impact gun is the one to go with?

Thanks in advance, and thank you John for posting this

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Note;

Alden engine package Cr80cc is no longer available, sold today. Thank you EKN.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Patrick

I sent you a PM

Let me know

Here’s my cell number in case you need pictures, or any additional info

Thanks, Freddy (858) 717-2191

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Chance, I sent you an email

please let me know if you want some pics

I can text you a few from my cell phone, of everything I have

Sorry it took so long, I’m short handed at work today. Thanks, Freddy. (858) 717-2191

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Richard, I sent you an email with a few pics

Let me know, Freddy

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Thanks, Richard. I’ll be in the office Thursday, I can send you a few pics and info. I can take $3500 cash, for a quick sale.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

(858) 717-2191

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Bob, I wasn’t really planing to sell that engine, other than the whole complete turn key, kart and engine set up, but if you make me a decent offer I may consider?

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

You could just install a good old MAXTORQUE, or TORQUEMAX

They do hook up pretty good, and are durable, not to mention extremely low cost

Unless you wanna go high tech and spend a lot more money, then there are several options, but in my opinion, and having experience with the cheap clutch with the same application you’re describing works just fine, and had many hour of fun and trouble free

Those clutches hook up real good and when they’re on, they are pretty solid, not bad for cheap clutches.

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Hi, Ryan! Thank you for your interest

And yes, I would be more than happy to ship the kart to your location

You can have the Sodi Kart along with all the new parts for $1,800  (This would be the cheapest)

Or buy the Arrow for $3,800 OBO

I currently have an offer for the engine on the arrow, but I really don’t wanna separate, as this is a nice set up. Thanks, let me know ( have pictures upon request, through email or text )

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Harrison

Thanks for your interest

You can have the Sodi Kart along with all the new parts for $1,800

Or take the Arrow Kart with the stock Honda CR125 as a turn key ready for $3,800 OBO

And yes, I am willing to ship, strap it on a pallet and help with the rest.

PM me if you have any questions. Thanks, Freddy.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Pictures sent

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I have a complete engine package, just need to put new top end together, we sent the jug out to get redone, and have all new piston and gaskets ready to be installed

We have no use for this engine, or the whole kart (2002 Sodi Kart )

Make me an offer for the whole engine package, carb, pipe electronics, etc

Or the whole kart.

 

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Harold

Thank you for your interest

Are you looking for a complete turn key kart with the Cr 80cc shifter package?

Or just engine package?

I do have a couple of options that may be good for you, please PM me. Thank you.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Do you have any pictures?

We may be able to help

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Craig

The Intrepid chassis is an excellent choice, but so are many others.

Tony Kart is awesome, and the replacement parts are available anywhere for a decent price

Top kart is also real good and very responsive, will do very well as a front runner, and yes parts are available anywhere for cheap

Kosmic Karts ( OTK ) I noticed in a short period of time they will sag in the middle of frame

Arrow karts are also pretty good, Birel karts are good also, and many other Italian karts

CRG karts are really good, but I have noticed a negative issuethe braking system is extremely expensive ( $600 bucks per rotor? )Also they seem to fatigue at the bearing cassette brackets and crack, or brake off ( a few people re weld them )

The big question is: How much track support and local shops are around your area, and How many people are running them, and of course How much money are you willing to spend?Anyhow, I hope this helps.

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Kevin

Brian hits it right in the nail, couldn’t said it better myself. You will get frustrated from wrenching from one set up to another ( especially at the track ). You don’t really wanna do this at all, I can understand when people blow up a motor during a race day, or get a top end stuck, it is very doable to replace engines at the track, or repair a top end, as long as you are replacing exactly the same engine package and new parts, but a whole complete and different engine type and drive asy. NO WAY!!!!!!!  ( this is something you wanna do at home, before track day)

I am a certified technician (mechanic) by trade, and we have about 7 different karts we currently use, and I’m constantly working on them, and changing an axle to reposition bearing carriers to fit a 4 cycle engine, fitting the engine mount, and all components, etc is not something you wanna do in between practice sessions.

You really wanna spend more time driving, getting some seat time, and getting familiar with the way the chassis respond to any changes. ( no wrenching all day )

My best advise is: If you really have to have a new chassis with a Rotax ?, then just get it

But just know that old chassis win races too, You can show up at the track with an old chassis and kick everyone’s butt with the right driver

My other advise is: If you are like me ( always needing my fix NEED FOR SPEED ) You will always wanna switch from different types of power plats just for the thrill of it ( there is a reason why I have 7 karts, lol )

Then do your math correctly with your cash availability, and your budget, then you may just be able to buy 2 karts for a very good deal, use them for a season or so, get very familiar with the sport, and then graduate to a new chassis ( you really don’t wanna make costly mistakes with a brand new chassis, or go off road a lot with that beautiful set up )Not to mention you can total a brand new kart really quick by bending a spindle, or having contact. I doesn’t really take that much.

Most chassis out there are still pretty decent and also have the modern/new style body work, you can always install brand new body work or powder coat the chassis, and it will look brand new again.

 

My 2 cents

Hope it helps

FASTFREDDY.

 

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Looks like something old European from Pavesi, Parilla, May be Rotax?

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Mauricio

What kind of truck do you have (year and model, some specs would be good)

Short bed, long bed, 4×4 or lifted?

Can you post a picture?

 

There are a few options you can go with, such as:

1 Build some ramps on top of side rails

2 Build two bars accross the bed with a 90 degree bend on both sides ( this could be round exhaust tubing) weld a bracket at the bottom of both sides, drill some holes, bolt them down to the bed. Do that X2  ( 1 bar for the front and another bar for the rear )

The # 2 option will be the cheapest to build

Just buy the the exhaust piping at any local muffler shop and just have them bend each end 90 degrees

then do the rest at home, if you have a welder, but if you don’t, then bring everything with you to the muffler shop already cut and pre made, so that they can weld the brackets to the ends of the pipes for you, for an extra charge, or extra beer.

 

Just my 2 cents, we had this set up before, and it worked great.

Hope it helps.

 

 

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Hey, Dale! It’s good to hear from you. This is FastFreddy

My Son Indy and I will be there, but would really love to make it a 2 kart entry ( father and son) as that day will be my birth day ( may be really funny to get my butt kicked on my birth day, Lol)

I’m really hoping to sell some of my shifter karts, or a junior KT100  turn key kart that I have

So that I can have the funds to buy a complete kart I’m eyeballing somewhere.

 

Anyhow, I’m really looking forward to that event, what an awesome class that is

Any Idea about how many entries for the old fat guys like me yet?

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Kevin

PM me, or email me at FASTRACERFREDDY@AOL.COM

I can steer you in the right direction

Welcome to the world of Karting, and congratulations for the good choice. Freddy.

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