[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

I understand from a business point of view that it is in their interest to “FOCUS” on the media and promoting the sport to encourage people to join our awesome sport, and I also understand about the clicks that are out there “FOCUSSED” on big money people only.

And I also understand how important it is to run a business, as I own 3 businesses

But it is extremely important to continue making sure your consumer/client to stay extremely happy and satisfied with you and your product, and your service.

Let’s say I introduce someone new to the sport, after months, days, hours, including trips to the track to use my own karts ( I have several ) All that investment, talking about how awesome racing is, and has been for so many years

Finally they are completely sold on the sport, then you introduce them to this awesome forum that I’ve known for so many years, for any questions they may have, right after I ran out of answers

So they become members of this forum, type in the 1st question in this super active forum

I can tell you that I can put up with a lot, but the new comer may get very discouraged after his questions get ignored for weeks, or months, he may find himself lost and confused with his new investment, and suddenly he goes WAIT A MINUTE, FREDDY! THIS IS NOT THE RACING FAMILY YOU TOLD ME SO MUCH ABOUT IT, What happened to all the fellow racers that would take their shirts off their backs for you, and to welcome you to the sport?

I thought you say “THE MORE THE MARRIER”

 

My point is:

I don’t care how you slice it! There has been a neglection here, and we all know it

Mr Dave Cole, You corrected me about posting my question about shifter kart gear ratio for Button willow and Willow Springs (Big tracks)

Saying that I should have placed them at Road Racing

I’m not an idiot, anybody in their right mind would know about any issues related with shifter karts, especially for a gear ratio at a certain track, for your info I actually placed them in shifter karts, and TECH TALK, I figured with 2 different sections I couldn’t go wrong

Please don’t treat me like I’m stupid, I have treated you with respect

You know that there is an issue here, and we are trying to help

How du you suggest we maintain the sport and the new racers?

Do you have any ideas, besides the media, and being focused on the important races?

Oh, And the typical “Welcome to the sport” greetings

 

 

Please understand That I was offended with your comments back to my post, I did not appreciate it at all.

It is extremely clear to know that people are reading and not posting, as you mentioned, and if people are reading, including myself. I know for sure that we are reading more than 1 section, Correct? So please DO NOT Make me feel like I posted in the wrong section, knowing that shifter kart racers are familiar with tuning at different tracks, including road race tracks. How can you go wrong with that? There is a big possibility that someone who does sprint track has also made a trip to Laguna Seca, Infinion, Sonoma, Willow Springs, Button Willow, etc.

I’m sure someone may know, or remember a good starting point for set up

And if fact, there was a nice guy here who finally was sympathetic enough and kind to give me some advise for one of the tracks I was asking for, and that was nice of him. (and he did not find me at the “ROAD RACE SECTION”

I hope we’re clear with this one.

And I simply wanted to overcome this issue we have as a family, and I thing both of us understand that if this industry is hurting it affects us both of us, and the rest of our guys here.

 

 

 

These are my 2 cents

I hope we have a smooth sailing now.

Freddy

 

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Aaron

Are you talking about the plastic drain plug, with the filler/dipstick type cap?

Or the one further down that looks like a 10MM hex socket, or bolt at the bottom of base?

I should ask. What are you trying to do? May be I can help.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Walter

I also agree with either premix will be fine

But please check with your club rules, as the previous owner may have not had a choice, since some spec classes will only let you use castor by Burris

I do like Red Line and Motul, but can’t use it at my club.

I honestly believe that any of those synthetic premix lubricants will help to prolong the life of the motor.

 

But if rules are not the issue here, I would highly recommend Motul or Red Line

Not to mention, it gets very cold where you live, and Castor will separate easier and faster

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Awesome! Jimmy!

Thanks for the reply

How would the 1.47 translate into front and rear sprockets?  Front 19 or 20, and Rear at 24 teeth?

 

Thank you again for the help.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Yup

Just like the Paul Tracy Kart ( CRG )

Fernando Alonso Kart (OTK, Tony Kart )

Alex Zanardi ( CRG )

Etc.

They are usually pretty closed to the production karts, with a few changes, but most of thr components will fit from one kart to another.

But yeah, for the most part exciting to see what it’s gonna look like

Probably blue and purple with all the infinity and red bull emblems/graphics?

Does anybody have a picture yet?

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

I would take care of the worn out components ( replaced what’s broken or bad first )

Then move on to the chain issue, you may have a bad engine sprocket and a bad rear sprocket as well.

Take a close look at your engine sprocket, and look for possible sharp edges, uneven teeth, etc ( a bad engine sprocket can ruin a new chain and rear sprocket at no time )

You may have to replace engine sprocket/driver, rear sprocket and chain altogether

 

Depending on the engine and clutch set up you’re running, some like it at 1/2 inch of play, some at 1 inch of play, etc. Too loose or too tight of a chain will kill the whole thing, including your engine driver.

Make sure you check your chain tension, lube your chain and driver inner bushing in every practice session.

 

Hope that helps, my 2 cents.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Hi, Cole

Jim and Brian hit it right in the nail

I have been a loyal forum participant/member since the year 2000, and I have noticed how we went from a pretty good economy to a real bad economy, which affected our sport and industry brutally

But I have also been around long enough to enjoy the good times, and funny moments with some of the members here, it has always been an awesome community, where everybody contributed for each other.

Jim mention in one of his concerns the word “activity”

Brian mentioned that some good questions have been answered in the old forum, and that is also accurate. But many new members still don’t know how to get there, or the surge bar can’t find the topic you’re talking about.

 

I miss some of the old members that we lost through the changes of a new forum, which I’ve gotten used to it btw, I do get around pretty good now.

I think we can agree that we might have lost about 50% of our guys here?

My question is: Have we done anything to reach out to them, and see how they’re doing?

Or What we can do to help them or accommodate their needs to be able to navigate this forum? I know that there has to be some kind of contact information such Email addresses, phone numbers?

There were a whole bunch of guys from shifter karts, and 2 strokes here, constantly chiming in and joking about an event that took place, or a repair/rebuild that went south, and turned into a humoring experience, etc.

I remember Michael Goebbel  posting all kinds of stuff, answering questions, or just about anybody talking about any topics

2 questions were posted by me, in 2 different sections, about what gear ratio would be a good start for a certain track? It’s been almost a month, several viewers but not one single reply. Please! at least someone give me a “BS” story, but please at least talk to me, and let me know I’m not alone, give me some hope! Lol.

I personally like to chime in and be involved with the community, answering any questions that are asked in almost any section of the forums to the best of my knowledge

Some people say thank you and some don’t, and some will take forever to reply, but that’s not my point.

I would like to have more cooperation and activity from all members

You can count on me for that, however I do need help from moderators and members to get the ball rolling and continue to post threads to encourage karters.

 

Please note that I am not been in any form of negative criticism, but constructive criticism instead.

I do appreciate all your efforts you and many others have made to maintain the forum alive, I probably couldn’t imagine what you go through, but thank you for all that you do.

 

Sincerely yours Freddy Sandoval (Fast Freddy )

 

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Jeff

I think you got everyone confused with the direction of your track drawings

One time you posted this:

oh and racing direction is this way

————–>

This is to me an indication that the track is ran clock wise  correct?

The other thing was when you asked Walt that if by going to the left side would mean being closer to the pitts? Is to me an indication that you’re running clock wise on the main straigthaway, correct?

You also posted another picture of the drawing with lots of arrows pointing the opposite direction (counter clock wise )

I can see where every body is trying to help you, and indeed they are very accurate, but I don’t know if they’re following your running direction.

 

Because if you’re going clockwise I would totally wanna go as close to the pit lane, to the left side and then cut it inside of turn 1.

 

Please correct me if I’m wrong, as I’m going by the arrow you posted, but then I got confused by your drawing with bunch of blue arrows going on the wrong direction from your other post.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Not sure about the specific code, but I believe it is called ” DAY GLOW ORANGE? “

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Eric

Those look like inserts/timeserts

They’re usually pressed in, as you can see most likely they were pressed in at the factory, at the desired hight.

I would totally cover the holes with masking tape, or find 2 bolts of the same pitch, screw them in, or better yet find a bolt with a wide head that will match the flat side of the thread flush, screw it in, tape the end that will stick out the other side and remove them when powder coating is finished, cut and trim with a brazor blade some of the burr, left over paint so that it won’t chip away, not to mention it will look neat.

Hope that helps.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Pictures please!

Most of the time you can get away by using masking tape in all holes before you send out your chassis.

But it would really make it a lot easier if you could post pictures of your stuff, to be able to help and advice you better.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Most people who carry TM, Rotax, Motori 7, Vortex, etc. Will probably be able to get all the parts you need

I had a blueprinted TM Moto, back in the day

And George Barks would carry most parts, or could find availability

Also Italian Motors should be able to help with that. http://www.italianmotors.com

Hope that helps.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Please describe the type of track you’re running at, for a better advise

How wide is the rear track when you measure from inside of axle, outside to outside of wheel?

How many spacers do you have on the front spindles?

Is this a real small sprint track, dirt track, or long track?

What year and model chassis is this?

Do you have front and rear torsion bar?

I really wanna help, but I need to know more info about it.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Your bolt is too short

This is very common when installing a new bracket for the new bumper style

You need to buy 2 new longer bolts of the same kind and go into town with it again

Unless otherwise as stated by Walt, there is a big possibility that the nut inside the mount fell off, and you will need to remove the rubber mount to get to it.

Easiest way to find out is to remove the bracket, and install the bolt by itself, and see if it starts going, and far enough to tighten up. If it does then determine the length needed to finalize the job, including the space needed for your bracket. Merry Christmas

Fast Freddy.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Dude

Try http://www.empirekarts.com

They are located in Redlands Ca, only 1.5 hours from your house

Most caliper seals you can buy at an auto parts store ( from a real wheel cylinder rebuild kit )

 

Hope this helps. Fast Freddy

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Blake

How much is this chassis, and How much would it be to ship to Cali 93308 ( commercial ) ?

Sorry, Tried to PM you, but will not go through.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Your caliper pistons and seals are most likely full of corrosion and build up.

 

look at the pistons closely before any amount of brake pedal is applied, look at the distance the caliper pistons are at.

Drive the kart and get it to act up, then look at the distance and see how much further the pistons are sticking out

I almost wanna put money down that your calipers and master cylinders are in need of rebuilding, or a good honing and cleaning.

Try duplicating the problem, as I suggested first, paying close attention to the calipers first, if you confirm that the pistons are not returning, then take the calipers apart, and master cylinder, and rebuild them, flush and bleed them, and good to go.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Matt, TJ, and Brian

Thank you for your help, you’re right, we’ll just have to test while running the race. We have 3 heat races to adjust, and the main event is the most important one.

I will definitely tell my son about keeping his arms straight and steer with minimal effort and with more gentleness.

Thank you all.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Thank you all for your input, we’ve been working on different driving styles, and are fully awared of sensitivity steering, and we also know that OTK’s are very soft and sensitive.

All of you guys are right, we’re trying all we can, including different driving lines and styles

The rear width was at 45″ we brought it out to 55″

Front had big fat spacer and 2 small spacers ( we removed fat spacer, and placed it outside)

Front torsion bar is the oval shape tubing kind, not blade type ( it is horizontal, flat against floor pan)

Please note that all the adjustments we’ve done, like retightening of front torsion bar, front nerf bar, rear track to 55″ all remains to be tested, I still don’t know what the result will be till this weekend ( race day ) Not much time to test. Lol. I just wanna be able to glide smoothly, with out bouncing/hopping so much.

Do these karts like high air pressures?

Thank you all, again for your help.

 

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

How much do you want for a 50MM Neutral OTK axle?

And Is it factory original OTK? or aftermarket for OTK karts?

Please PM me with answer, or email me some pictures to FASTRACERFREDDY@AOL.COM

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

I’m not sure, Allan

Last time they produced a track magic was around 06, if I remember correctly

Please post a picture of the brakes, and I’ll tell you rightaway, they are very unique

I still think you would be a whole lot better off with the CRG.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Just drive the darn thing! Lol

We experience 105 to 115 degrees here in Bakersfield California decert

And also at Button Willow Raceway, along with Willow Springs raceway, and some times is pretty humid.

Sorry, I’m just feeling smarty today, LOL

Bo is right, there are a few cooling shirts and underware to keep you cooler to some degree, and it does make a difference, by lowering the temps a bit

I would try that stuff before I spray anything on my clothes or flesh

The water system, of liquid cooling system seems a little complicated, and as mentioned previously, it’s just another thing to go wrong with. Fast Freddy.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Allan

The Track Magic was an awesome American made chassis in it’s time, along with the newer Margay chassis, in my opinion

But sadly went out of business, and support or replacement parts would be a bit of an issue, but not impossible, as there are lots of new and used parts available out there

The only issue I had with them was the primitive front and rear brake system, very old and outdated, I also noticed that Sodi Karts had the same brakes as the Track Magic

I would totally stick with the CRG, and if you want to go newer, then just buy a newer CRG, they are proven winners, and supported almost anywhere, and not to mention parts are readily available almost in any race shop or online store.

That’s just my 2 cents, hope that helps….. Fast Freddy.

 

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Dude!

You don’t need all those extra parts, with springs and pistons, just clean, hone and install new seals with assembly lube, or brake fluid.

You can find all those seals at FASTECH-RACING.COM

Just go on the menu for brake group

And select the desired diameter ( they all come in MM increments )

These guys are really good, and ship super fast.

Good luck

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

There was a guy selling one, here in the forum,  not too long ago ( 2 to 3 weeks? )

Go to the miss classifieds.

Good luck.

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