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Thanks, Brian
And yes, I do agree with second motor ( back up motors )
All of our karts at the shop have 2 motors for each kart
I currently have 2 newly rebuilt engines, sitting in my office, and that’s how I started testing all my engines, when I suspected I had no power,

And there you go, my engine had low compression, so I started comparing everything we’ve been getting built.

Thank you for all your help and advice, You’re awesome!

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Kris
First of all I just wanna say how sympathetic I am of you, I know the feeling when a piece of low life does that to hard working person, I am very familiar with that bad experience.

I will keep my eyes open for it.
What city or town is this? I can look as far as California and Nevada. You never know.

Once again, Sorry to hear the bad news, buddy.

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That’s awesome! Brian
Thank you.
When a decent full rebuild is done, Should I expect to see some 150 PSI? Or something like that? Right now I’m only getting 120 psi. It’s no wonder I can’t stay with the pack. Lol.

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Brian
Brand new chassis do sit on the shelf, or box for a long time, before sold, back in the late 90’s to mid 2000’s chassis were very durable

Now adays are manufactured to be a lot softer, and will perform very well, as they flex everywhere, I just don’t know how many years you can get out of new ones now, but my gess would be 5 to 6 years? (if you wanna stay on top with the major racers)
But for the club level racing shouldn’t be a problem at all.

If these chassis you’re talking about at your buddy’s garage are only 1 weekend old, I would say they are still pretty much new, except for the brake system.
What brand of manufacture are they? Tony Kart, CRG, Top Kart, Etc.

I would say if the deal is good JUMP ON IT! Taking in consideration you’ll need to re do all your seals, at least. But as far as fatigue on the frame goes no worries there. What year are they?

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Thank you, Brian
That is good info, and yes I only buy nothing but the best in tools
All Snap-On, Mac, and the best brands for precision tools, You’re right about that.

Now, I’m new at this 2 stroke engine rebuilding. How do I order the correct ring? And do people usually trim or grind the ends to fit the feeler gauge? Or Do you have to get the ring that fits the feeler gauge?

Thank you, so much.

I think from now on I’m just gonna send my cylinders to get trued correctly and I think I’ll do the rest, it can’t get any worse than the quality work I’ve been getting by having a builder do it all. Lol

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Sweet!

Are these the ones in Simi Valley? Or somewhere else?

I’ll take one of them for sure, Lol

Please send me the link, Thank you for keeping your eye open for me. Fast Freddy.

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Thank you, Mr Goebel, Your pipe is sooo cleannnn!!!!!!!!!!

How did you get it soooo cleannnn? Could this be Lime Avay? Lol.

You should really upload a video here on the general carting disc.

It’s been really boring lately, not to mention, we do have a lot of newbies that what some of your tips. ( Lime Away tips )

Thanks, mike. Have a nice day.

You should really come visit us in 3 weeks for our last race, or our yearend shootout, in Bakersfield. Ca.  http://www.bakersfieldkartraceway.com

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Will

We have a complete kid kart ( 2012  Top Kart ) Was purchased brand new, and only used 2 times.

Still looks new, and it does have the newer body works style.

It doesn’t have a Honda motor, but you could attach one to it, and save the Comer 50cc engine package for whenever the kid is ready to go faster?

We also have a 2010 Cadet kart with a blueprinted Yamaha KT100, very clean ( Top Kart also)

 

Let us know, we’re located in central California.

Freddy.

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Patrick

Check for fatigue cracks on the frame, all over, seat uprights, seat struts, frame rails, cassette brackets, spindle yokes, etc. Just to be safe.

A hairline crack under front frame rails could drive one crazy like this. Just a thought, please let us know. Fast Freddy.

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Tom

How old is the chassis? Are your king pins ok? Are your spindle bearings good, and with no play?

Any signs of wear at your tie rod ends’ himes joints?

Your chassis should normally see changes or increments of 2 at any direction

I would totally set it up at 4 and 4, and that should be pretty good.

 

Please explain how you’re setting it on the ground, or on a jig, or table,and taking measurements?

Where are you setting the kart on? Remember that it has to flex, and roll, so that it’s not on a bind, plus where is the driver siting on? Make sure your driver is sitting down correctly, with his/her legs fully extended.

If no matter what you do, you’re still getting 6mm in increments, then there is something seriously wrong with the chassis, or loose/worn out components.

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Delete

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Did you check your fuel pick up, inside of the tank for cracks?
Did you check for vacuum leaks at the intake rubber booty?
How is the tension on your throttle cable? Too tight? Give it some slack.

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Mike! So happy you’re back in here. We missed you

Say something funny! Lol

Where about do you live? I could use another shifter kart

Are you close to Santa Clarita/ Magic Mountain? If So, I live in Bakersfield. Could you please send me some pics? and is this moto package legal and ready to go?

FASTRACERFREDDY@AOL.COM

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Ted

I only brought that up, since it was mentioned by Greg, so that’s why I wondered if I really needed one or not, I thought pressure is pressure too, I just had to go in with an open mind, as I’m learning 2 cycles too.

 

Not trying to re invent the wheel, I just thought that there may be something different here.

But in all honestly, if you don’t think I need one, then I gess i’m fine.

Please check the previous comments, I’m just trying to get advice here, not trying to prove a point.

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We own an automotive repair facility, and I am a certified technician

We do have a fairly new compression gauge kit from Mac tools, and another one from Snap-on tools.

I just thought I needed a small engine compression gauge for these KT100 motors.

 

But yeah, I think from now on if I want something done right, I’ll do it myself, I just thought there was more science to keep those engines freshened up and legal.

What should be my ring gap, with a feeler gauge at the ends?

Thank you for all your advice

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I agree

This reminds me of a family fun center, chucky cheese, boomers

The real deal is at the real race tracks, with real race karts

Don’t give me wrong, it is an excellent way to get people started in the sport, but unfortunately there isn’t any seriousness or follow ups with that kind of racing.

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You may have an intake leak, could be carb intake booty, crankcase seal, etc.

Check your boot first, check your pick up fuel line inside the tank, sometimes they could be partially cracked.

Sounds like you may have a vacuum leak, and when it leans out engine revs.

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Ok, I won’t mess around, no more. I am taking in consideration what you’re saying, Jim. I do have my back up engine package to rely on, before I do my own inspection on this engine, and before I send the cylinder out.

Where can I order a good, accurate 2 cycle/small engine compression gauge kit?

Any suggestions or part numbers of the one I should get, and where to order it from?

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Walt and Jim

I think both of you guys are right, I was just wondering about that, and now it all makes cense. There is absolutely no way that this engine miraculous gained 20 more PSI, unless like Walt said “may be a new ring”? Slap it on and thank you very much?

Jim, I think you may be right also with the trueness of the cylinder walls as well, and the light test. It’s just like when you do a straight edge on a cylinder head on a car, shine a flash light and you can crawl underneath.

We do run a spec class that switches from pipe to 4 can every other race for the old farts, like me. With 390 lbs. Pipe. 410 lbs 4 hole can, and a 3 disk L&T Wet clutch

And a spec class for the young guns Sr Super Sportsman at 360 lbs pipe and a 3 hole can 2 disk dry clutch.

That being said, for a spec class (club level) KT100. What PSI is most common?

 

Thank you all. Fast Freddy.

 

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Brad

This is gonna sound silly, but I must ask

Do you wear a racing suit, or regular jeans?

I you do wear jeans, or your suit is too loose, or too wide at the bottom of your legs. It will push the throttle cable where exposed by the pedal and bracket area.

 

Tuck your jeans under your socks, so that there’s no left over hanging out jeans, or if the suit is to wide, put some zip ties around your leg sleve.

 

Try that and let us know what happen.

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Zach, Thank you!

That’s what I’m talking about!

Read this, Noah

I HATE BEING RIGHT!!! LOL.

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Thanks, Walt

Well, I finally got engine back, and was said that there was nothing wrong with it, no leaks at all, and it all looked good.

I followed your advice to test it out of curiosity at wide open throttle, and with the pulse fitting plugged.

I got 12o PSI, I also tested again with the carburetor closed, and same readings

I don’t get it

I dropped off an engine with confirmed and double checked compression reading at 93 to 95 psi

And I get it back with 120 psi?

 

Anyhow, Walt. There is your answer to your wandering for the new updated readings at WOT

What do you thing? Any thoughts and pointers are always appreciated. Thank you.

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Nick

That seat is not for you, I can see that you float in it, and the top is too tall for your thorso. You need the next size down.

Not to mention the top side wings are designed to hug you

And usually to get in and out of those seats you kind of have to go in sideways, and wedge your way inside.

I noticed your arms are up, lifted up.

What happens when arms are down and you get busy, negotiating corners? Yes you’re probably resting on top of the seat edges, while brutally bouncing around.

Get a new seat, it will be the next size down, it will be more fit, and will be a little shorter too.

That one is for taller drivers, like close to 6′ and a little over 6′

Get a new rib vest, or rib band/wrap at least, install some padding, and enjoy. Fast Freddy

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Curtis
You’re right, This kart package is set at a very good price, the price is right.
Honestly I can get an OTK full roller chassis with no motor at all
for about $2,200 to $2,800, from 2013 to 2014

So yeah, you’re right, looks like he would be getting the motor for almost free
The first statement I made was that the kart package was a good deal, but then I shared that the engine package is not my choice (personal opinion) No offense

And since Sebastian is new to the world of karting and unfamiliar with all the classes out there, I encouraged him to do some homework, to see if that engine is even currently running at his club, so that he won’t regret buying it.

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Sebastian

The kart package seems to be at a decent price

The flat spots on the bottom frame rails are pretty deep for an OTK kart ( soft chassis ) but may be ok as a club level for a season or 2

I’m honestly not a fan of Motori 7 ( my own personal opinion ) I would never buy one

I would buy a Rotax instead.

Find out if they even use those at the club you wanna race with, if not don’t even buy it.

But if all you want it for track time, practice days and the weekend warrior, they I gess it would be ok, hoping the engine will last and parts availability is in check.

 

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