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Hi, Sebastian

As Tim Koyen mentioned here above, I wouldn’t be too concerned about 450 degrees, just like he said, brand new chassis right after they were built were powder coated next.

 

It is the 800 to  1000 degrees that would really be a concerned

I am powder coating my Son’s OTK, as soon as the season is over, it will look pretty again, not to mention it will cover most flat spots at the bottom. LOL

Just kidding, but it will cover quiet bit at the bottom for sure.

No worries about the handling man, we have never seen any changes in chassis behavior at all.

P.S. Some times people don’t remember how to put the kart back together, on the same settings, camber/caster pills, their toe changes, their ride highth changes and that throws  them off, or most of the time is just psychological.

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Paolo
Who hit it right in the nail?
Tim Koyen, or ME? Lol
No just kidding, he’s a good guy, and smart too. I just put in my 2 cents, it’s all good.

Good luck with your powder coating, man, and hopefully it’s a nice color
Post some pictures when you’re done…… Fast Freddy.

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My 2 cents
Buy my set of brand new MG Yellows, still in the wrappers
You’re gonna need them $190 shipped to your door at Nor Cal.

Oh, yeah, and a lot of padding on the seat and a good rib vest
Squeeze spring loaded hand grips, or a tennis ball, work out your upper body, twist, and abdominals.

Other than that you’ll get used to it, just don’t push too hard till you get very familiar with it.

Also, very important! DO NOT stay out longger than your 6 to 10 lap normal sessions, it will crack, fracture or bruice you ribs. Remember, you don’t have to break a track record, so take it easy, no need to prove a point yet.

My 2 cents, buddy……….. Fast Freddy.

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SOLD IT! Thank you, EKN!
Yup, Tim, I agree
I can’t believe how long those things lasted, and still going strong
We bought that thing, when my 17 year old kid was 4, and to this day we were still using it.

Best stand I ever had, and the funny thing is: In the beginning I didn’t care much for them. Lol. ( I WAS WRONG!!!!!! )

I remember like it was yesterday, and this was the start, before they came up with the electric powered ones, with the motor. Too Funny.

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Yeah! Mask all holes, where spindles go, rear axle cassettes holes, any chassis tuning holes, all holes.
Or leave them alone, and then scrape off the extra coating with a knife, or drill bitt.

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SOLD! Thank you EKN!

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I believe most guys sand blast the old paint off the frame, then re powder coat them.
Either way, I honestly don’t think there is any way around heating, as they bake them and put in the oven to finish the powder coating process.

So either way, it will get hot one way or another
I honestly rather removing the old paint with anything else other than heat.

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Bob
Where do you find these letters at?
And Are these casing numbers or stamps, by the builder?
If this is an “S” stamped between the cylinder and the head, then it was stamped by the builder referring to a standard piston size and cylinder jug.

The “SEC” part, I have no idea
The only other important casing numbers to look for are on the right side of the motor, above the bottom end, and at the bottom of the cylinder ( 787 )

I hope this helps, rather than creating more confusion, just my 2 cents. Fast Freddy.

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Something to really consider is overnight staying at hotels/motels and thieves

The other thing is weather conditions

I went to Button Willow for a practice day yesterday with my shifter kart, I thought it was very simple to just throw it on the back of my truck and just go ( since it wasn’t even a race day )

As soon as I got there it started raining hard, like pouring cats and dogs

My beautiful clean kart turned into a soaken wet madness

So I had to work a lot harder to take it back to the shop, dry it out, and making sure every nut and bolt, fasteners, chrome pieces were free of water, then sprayed the whole thing with WD40, and wiped it down with a towel.

 

All that could have been avoided if I had taken an enclosed trailer to the track

My 2 cents. Fast Freddy.

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Tyler Coffman has a nice one, with a neck spoiler and a Go Pro attachment, you’ll see it tomorrow at Button Willow.

Bring your gear with you, so you can drive my kart. Lol

I think the seat might be too big though, so bring extra clothing, jackets. Lol

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They’re really nice, other than they serve the same purpose as the standard ones

Last time I checked they did not want any carbon fiber, or fiber glass kart components

I’ve seen some guys running them, but I’m not sure if legal or not

Contact SKUSA for details. These are just my 2 cents, buy I could be wrong, unless this floor pan is not considered body work component, then I gess it’s ok, but I would totally ask them first.

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Hey, Sebastian

I may end up going to Button Willow tomorrow morning again, as it rained so hard today, as soon as I got to the track.

Steve and his family were there, and we decided to wrap it up and leave.

I’m gonna try to make it by 12pm, and if we meet there we’ll let you take the beast for a spin.

Also I have a brand set of MG Yellows, in the wrappers. Do you know of anyone that can use a set for cheap?

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Ken
I forgot to mention, we’ve had Hasse chassis in the part, and yes, they are very good chassis also
And back in the day, if I’m not mistaken they were built by Tony Kart, or at least by the Tony Kart importer? Or so I was told by a lady Kart Shop Owner in Orange co. CA.

And of course, all the components I had on My Hasse, such as Brake master cylinders, spindles, torsion bars, hubs, all looked exactly the same as Tony Kart

So, that would be another thing to consider.

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JT
I have a good runner KT100 motor with carb and cup
No clutch, mount or pipe, but I may have a can laying around
I bought it as a back up for $600 bucks, but never used it at all.

Will take $500 plus shipping

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Ken
We’ve had many different karts through the years, from cadet karts, to KT100’s, to clones, shifters, etc, All manufacturers, you name it.
I love Hasse, CRG, Arrow, Birel, Top Kart, etc. ( they all are great chassis )

But I recently put my Son on an OTK Formula Alonso (Fernando Alonso ) Same as Tony Kart, and Kosmic, just different color.

And he absolutely love it! I gave him the option to go back to Top Karts with a brand new chassis, and he said he won’t go back, as it is totally different feel.
Some of the top Tony kart drivers prefer OTK products because of the finess style of driving, and does not require of too much effort and fighting at the steering, when set up and tuned properly.

I’m warning you though, keep it away from crashes and pile ups, as they are extremely soft, and bend easily, when everything else seems to endure heavy wrecks, but OTK karts weren’t designed for wrecks, they were designed to be extremely flexible and tenable, and win races.

Anyhow, the way I look at it, You can either use a screwdriver or a power tool to do the job. One kart will make you work harder than the other to get the same result.

Good luck on your decision, and welcome to the family.

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Welcome to the sport, Matt.
The Tony Kart is a 2008 Tony Racer
And the other one I noticed it has Top Kart graphics, even though you mentioned it is a CRG. May be post a picture of the front part of the frame, where the steering column attaches to the floor pan? I wanna see the bracket from the frame to the steering column at the bottom.

But yeah, otherwise I think you did good
They’re both good options for the club level, or weekend warrior. Enjoy.

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I googled your track, and checked out some youtube videos on it. Looks pretty fun

You’re gonna need a new tire machine, trust me it will make it a lot easier, it will get the job done in 5 to 10 minutes.

 

You can install new tires in less than 5, and you can remove old ones and install new ones in about 10.

Look for a TDC tire machine, you’ll love it, best $250 bucks you’ll ever spend. and could be attached to your towing hitch.

http://www.empirekarts.com/tire-changing/

 

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Nate

Your set up seems to be pretty good, those tires did what they had to do and designed for.

2 race days, and 2 practice days is a lot, they lasted pretty good I should say. Lol. I can only use a new set of tires for a pipe race, then save them and use them at my next race, which it’s a CAN race ( a bit slower ), but some guys buy tires each race.

If you’re in a budget then buy a new set for one race, then flip them over for the next race, and just use whatever is left for practice till they’re done. All tires do develop most of tire wear on the inside ( both front and rear) that’s why you have to flip them over, so that you get more rubber on the inside again.

Is this a sprint track with a lot of tight corners, and a few fast sweepers?

And the most important question:

How did the kart behave, and how did you do in the race? Any fun at all? What place did you finish?

 

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Thanks, Sebastian!
I don’t know about fast ( the older I get, the slower I am )
I may be leading the championship at my club, but I’m not wining any races lately, that’s for sure. Lol. Too many chassis tuning complications lately.

I’m glad you worked something out with Steve, he is a super nice guy, and he’ll take good care of your needs.

And I’m also available for any questions, any time.
Enjoy your new kart. Fast Freddy.

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Hey

Sebastian, I saw Steve Coffman last Saturday at the local track

Did you end up buying one of his karts?

We were talking about going to button willow for some testing ( shifter karts, Tag kart, KT100)

You should come out and join us this Saturday. There’s a young man that came to our last race in Bakersfield from San Jose Ca. For the Super Sr KT100 class  ( Joshua Veloz? )

 

We’re having one more club race in Nov 9th, and shortly after that we’ll have our big year end shootout Pro Race  (Money Race ) Come out and race or check it out.

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Yeah!

Or Sebastian Vettel, Ricciardo, Or Nico

I’m sure I can pass with my accent, they won’t notice at customs. Lol

Man! I hate scammers! I get them all the time.

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Cool!

Ad up to the list a bottle of L&T clutch oil, or a bottle of Horstman Steel Nytro coolant clutch oil also, extra gaskets, TriFlow spray lubricant for your drum bushing, an can of Maxima Chain wax/lube, some extra Autolite Spark plugs, and hit the track.

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Well

I’m going to bed now, but honestly I think you may not be setting the snipes correctly, there’s no way you’re getting 10mm of neg camber. I would look like a major negative camber on an Indy Car, set up for a tight course, in fact it would be hard to ignore or pretend it isn’t there, as you can see the tire leaning inward on the top.

If the front tires look straight up, and you don’t have a problem with broken or worn out spindle bearings at the steering yoke, then your problem is most likely to be too much negative Toe.

 

How many sessions did you use those tires?

Do you flip them? We usually flip them after 1 race day, then use them for the next can race, after that they’re pretty much done (good for a couple of hard sessions of hard practice ) and ready for the trash.

Sorry about all the questions, but I need to know.

How old is the chassis? Where the tires new, and became this way immediately after 1st, 2nd or 3rd practice session? Or after a few days of practice?

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Nate

Show me another picture of the front of the kart, or rear to front, I wanna see what it looks like with the front tires on, I wanna eye ball it, so please make sure I can see the whole side of the tire walls.

 

I also wanna see another picture of your snipes mounted on the spindle, please. I’m just trying to help you. We’ll take care of it for sure. But I need your help.

 

FastFreddy

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Patrick
I agree, considering the fact that clutches are anywhere from $250 to $300 and up
Well said.

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