[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

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[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

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[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Jeff

Removing your seat strut won’t be good, it will hop like crazy and get more 2 wheeling.

Move your seat 2 inches forward, keep the back seat lip to axle close to 9″ or 9.5, It was also suggested to move seat to the left a bit, and that’s true, but only make a few adjustments 1st, don’t make too many adjustments at once.

I would totally move the seat forward and add another seat strut. You’re on the right direction buddy.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

All the advice given above is correct, you may wanna check your clutch stall, if it’s too low it will stall ( goes into direct drive mode ) Should be around 8600.

What king of clutch are you running? 2 disc, 3 disc, wet or dry?

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How high off the ground is your seat? How tall are you?

How wide or narrow is your front track?

What air pressures are you running? And what kind of tires?

Are you running seat struts or not?

Look for cracks under the frame rails, it will cause that too.

Are you running front and rear torsion bars?

Let us know what chassis this is.

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Once you do all those repairs, and the kart still pulls to the left, there is hope

Send it in to be put in a table and they’ll fix it, this happens a lot even during major events some shops show up to the track with table straightening services, as karts do get bent just by going over cerves.

And yes, your king pins are the bolts that go through your spindles, pills and yoke.

Now this is gonna sound stupid but swap the 2 front tires just in case one is smaller than the other, but you should still check the geometry of your chassis.

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Jerry

Eric and Barry are both right, By just reading your post and noticed you crashed, or even before I read the part where you said you crashed, and mentioned you had a pull, I knew right away that you had something bent.

Check your spindles, your king pins, check your caster adjustment

A bad toe setting will not cause a pull, only negative caster or set back

loosen up your king pin bolts, spin the bolt from the top  (head), if the spindle changes direction as you turn it, then you have bent king pins, replace them and check again.

It is very important that you buy a set of snipe lazer tool, or borrow one, that way you can be sure where your camber and toe is.

What kind of kart is this?

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Yes, there are all kinds of aftermarket parts for those, but let’s find out how bad the wear is first. Try to hook up a snipe gauge and see how far the tow is

Place some pictures of the tires and let us see what’s going on.

Remember, tires wear out quiet bit at the inside showlder, a lot more than the outside ( that’s normal ) Most people flip the tires around to get another track day out of them.

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Valentin

Most karts develop inside tire wear, as the chassis flexes and develops negative camber through the corners, and the rear tires as well, since the axle flexes too.

Some tracks are harder on tires than others, depending on how aggressive and tight the corners are, and how small the track is. There’s also a possibility that your toe is way out ( it happens quiet bit) It is very important to snipe your front end before each race.

Please give us more description about your track, track condition, your alignment set up ( where your tow, camber and caster is ) Please let us know how many laps or sessions you do before this happens. If it happens in the first few laps etc. Or at the end of the day. We will help you get it narrowed down, and some other guys here will also give you good advice. Thanks, Fast Freddy.

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I have a friend with a complete, almost new set up off a Top Kart (they should fit, as they look SKM also.)

Hubs, spindles, rotors, etc. I think they were only used once if any

I can contact him, if interested?

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Mike, you’re kid is doing a lot better

Kids are very funny and if you share too much info with them it gets even funnier.

Make a few adjustments, just to test, but don’t tell him anything, just let him drive it, and see how he does. I was checking out the videos from this Saturday night race, and he looked really good, nice and smooth, and very consistent.

If you really wanna try 52″ at the rear, he may lose lift at the inside rear tire, at the pit turn, but considering how light he is it may work to his advantage. Try it first, and if you don’t like it you can always go back all the way or closer to 49″

Is he complaining of a handling  issue right now?

T

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Oh, Hay Mike!

I love to see some of my club guys in here

I’m really looking forward to this race, the weather should be nice and cooler, we’re gonna have some dogs and burgers, I’ll bring the drinks and potato salad. Bryan and Dave are gonna create some traffic while I go around and pass Todd for the lead. Lol

We’ll see you soon, buddy. FastFreddy.   ;)

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These……..http://www.fastech-racing.com/axle-bearing-40x80mm-kyk-made-in-japan.html

And These…….http://www.accelerationkarting.com/bulkaxlebearings.aspx

And These……….http://www.tsracing.com/store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&CATID=28&ObjectGroup_ID=113&OBS=11&Move=Prev&count=8&Pcount=35

And These………http://www.ebay.com/itm/GO-KART-AXLE-BEARING-RIGHETTI-RIDOLFI-K244-40MM-/161204287853?hash=item258886396d&vxp=mtr

There are many other options for higher quality and more expensive stuff, it all depends how far you wanna go with it, but those bearings are pretty decent and will do just well for a season or 2.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Would these work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Soft-Foam-Anti-Slip-Tape-Black-Rubberized-Boat-Shower-Step-Tape-6-X-7-Roll-/221091602486?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337a162036

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jumbo-Adhesive-Rubber-Foam-Roll-1-8-x6-x5Yds-Orthopedic-Medical-Grade-USA-NEW-/131269180982?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e9040be36

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mueller-Foam-Rubber-Adhesive-backed-open-cell-1-8-x-6-x-2-yd-roll-/161633998163?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25a2231553

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adhesive-Rubber-Foam-Roll-1-4-x6-x2Yds-Orthopedic-Medical-Grade-USA-Brand-New-/131452660536?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e9b306b38

 

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Yup, That’s how I set mine up too, even when you install a new set of chassis protectors, the hardware is designed for heads at bottom, washers and nuts on top.

Meat hooks, Lol. I like that. You’re funny Walt.

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No need for pictures. These are usually very sad stories, and too graphic

Just take our word for it, and believe us, even if it’s 6 inches long just be smart and protect it. It is not worth the risk, Just like Debbie said (never take chances on that)

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Walt

There have been horrible long hair accidents in the past, where women have lost all the flesh off their faces ( face off ) Tragically there have been a few cases about this issue, and sadly it was always a joy ride, a girl that was invited to try karting, and was never advised or encouraged about the danger of long hair.

David Cole is right, this should be posted in every track, every club, and every rule book, it’s only commune cense. I personally would encourage everyone with long hair, no matter how long it is, to put it on a pony tail, tuck it inside the suit and put on a head sock.

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Brian

Any karting shop in your area should be able to mount a seat, at the right angle and the ride height.

Not difficult to do at all, gotta find the seat he feels comfortable with, fits perfectly snugged ( not lose, not choking him to death ) Put all your weights towards the bottom, etc.

But if what you’re looking for is a service, then look them up around your town, there should be a few shops in New Jersey. Otherwise just ask how to do it with us guys here, just give us enough info on the kart size, kid size, height and weight, engine package you’re running, etc.

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David

Your issue may just be bad tires, swap the 2 front tires 1st, if no changes, then swap the back ones if it changes then that’s your problem. If not, then swap your 2 front hubs and bearings ( if it has front hubs )

Those old tires are really dry and probably shrunk one more than the other, just like Jim mention, if it was flat for a long time.

I personally never use a set of tires that are older than 1 or 2 months, if yours are older than a year, or 2, then toss them and install new ones, you’ll love your kart and now you’ll have a fresh starting point for set ups.

 

And yes, most chassis are repairable, unless the impact when wrecked was really hard. But I would try the things I suggested 1st, and then we’ll know what to do next. Please keep us posted and share with us what happened after your process of elimination. Good luck. Fast Freddy.   ;)

 

 

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

I agree with TJ, but another important thing to consider is: Is it a tire pull, or a geometry issue?

Best way to find out swap the 2  front tires around and drive it again, make sure your tire pressure is equal, if it pulls to the opposite side then it’s a tire, but if it continues to pull, then it’s mechanical.

Check your king pins, check your caster, I bet that kart was wrecked and the wheel is bent, the kart may pull if it has negative caster, or set back, and will vibrate if the wheel is slightly bent or the tire is out of balance.

Try swapping the front tires first and see what happens, if it still pulls, then give it more positive caster on the right side (if it’s adjustable) if not take it to someone who has knowledge of  alignments, installing pills, straightening chassis on a table, etc.

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There are a few things you can do, to set up a kart for him, but the big question is: How fast are his reflexes, reaction time, Is he pretty sharp and aware, quick to react? I know that his legs are not functional as you stated above, but it is extremely important to know his sharpness to be able to judge if he can drive or not.

It is a big deal and a safety issue, you really don’t want him getting hurt or others.

 

Now moving on to the options hoping that he is capable and able to control the kart and speeds.

There was a video posted here sometime last year, and I’m pretty sure it’s on youtube.com, in fact he posted a few videos, step by step, showing how to build all the linkages for hand controls, he also built a crane to help him pick himself up and drop back inside his kart. He had no use of his legs at all.

Please understand that I don’t have a lot of info about this kid, and I can only give you a few pointers, based on the info you gave us, but if everything looks good, and he can do it, then there are a few options and yes, it is very possible to get him to drive and have fun like a normal kid would.

Please give us more info. Here’s a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvXacOxt2fQ

Hope this helps.

 

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Try these, I wouldn’t mess around too much, your master cylinder most likely will be just as bad as your calipers, don’t cut corners with braking systems.

http://www.accelerationkarting.com/righettirearcaliper.aspx

http://www.accelerationkarting.com/rrmastercylinder.aspx

http://www.fastech-racing.com/righetti-ridolfi-rear-caliper-brake-pads-included.html

http://fastech-racing.com/master-cylinders/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/race-go-kart-shifter-tag-new-mba-rear-brake-caliper-with-hoses-rotax-honda-brigg-/251992649509?hash=item3aabeeaf25&vxp=mtr

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Todd

I have a complete KT100

Do you wanna trade? Or I can just buy the kart out right?

Please let me know, I’ll pay the shipping.

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John

Now that you posted pics of the caliper bore, I can see that those calipers are pretty much done.

Righetti Ridolfi makes some real nice ones, and are not too expensive

Try acceleration.com or Fastech-racing.com

Or ebay.

[FREDDY SANDOVAL]

Measure the seal’s outside diameter, and decide which one is closest to you, then order from Fastech-racing.com

Most likely it will be either 19MM or 21MM, and those calipers were made by SKM for Hasse, if I’m not mistaken. Here’s a link. Good luck. Fast Freddy.  ;)

http://www.fastech-racing.com/brake-seals/

 

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