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Nick, welcome.

It is less expensive to purchase a used kart, than building a new kart from scratch.

By the time you’re done adding all the components, brakes, hubs, axle, bearings, cassettes, wheels and tires, seat, steering wheel, hub, steering shaft, etc. You’ll be way over budget.

I highly recommend finding a good used full roller chassis, or a turn key ( complete kart) for a discounted price.

I don’t know how things are in Europe, but I imagine karts may be a lot cheaper and easier to buy than it is here in America?

Good luck and enjoy your new karting adventures. FastFreddy.

 

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Have you guys noticed this topic or question was posted Dec 26th 20014?

It may not even be important to the guy that initially asked the question, as he never even replied with any more feedback.

Just a thought.

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Don’t forget about tuning the carb

If you’re not changing anything when swapping from can to pipe, then it’s really hard to judge

How many turns are you running on the T handle needle for Can?

How many turns on the T handle for the Pipe?

You should have a noticeable amount of difference in performance, so much that if you had 2 karts identically set up, same kind of driver, the one withe the can would have a hard time catching up to the guy with the pipe. FastFreddy.

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Liam

Are you talking about the harbor freight predator engines?

If so, then all you gotta do is remove tank, throttle linkage and lever, side engine cover (be careful not to break off the gasket)

Remove the white plastic gear ( it will be a challenge removing the “C” clip retainer) bend the inside part of throttle linkage away from crank shaft, put everything back together, cut carburetor black plastic linkage holder ( you will need to order a new throttle linkage kit and throw away the original one.

Anyhow, hope this helps, I’ll try to post a video, if you can’t get it to work.

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Abraham

If your camber’s at 0.5 pos degrees

Where do you have your toe at?

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Andrew

I don’t know how it works in Canada, but here in the USA, I have shipped many karts using FASTENAL, GreyHound, Iship.com, Uship.com, etc.

Very simple, Just strap the kart to a 6×6 wooden pallet, then build a create around it so that it’s all protected. Then drop it off at the nearest terminal. I don’t know how the customs work for you, but if this shipping is locally in Canada, then it should be easier.

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Larry

We’re really looking forward to those 2 events

What’s the gear ratio for Laguna Seca, on a 99 stock Honda

And a good jetting set up so that we don’t seize a piston?

What type of pipe, silenser and air box, tires, fuel are we supposed to run?

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Nigel

Honestly it’s nearly impossible to quiet down a 2 stroke engine all the way, but there are a few aftermarket silencers you can buy that enables you to install more packing inside of them.

Another thing to consider is: If you’re running a K&N filter, then remove it and install an air box ( this will quiet it down a bit)

I understand that free is good, but I highly recommend a race track, that way you can have more fun, and open it up as much as you want to.

Of course if you have a track near you, but that’s just my 2 cents. Good luck and have fun, while keeping it safe. Fast Freddy.

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Blake and Jim, hey guys, that’s not his cell phone number, that could be a land line.

I text with him every day. Give me $20.00 bucks and I’ll share his cell number with you, Lol.

No, with all kidding aside, you guys should PM him or email him.

I will get a hold of him and have him call you both. Fast Freddy.

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Crank shaft may have become lose, or someone lost kart at a corner and spun backwards, and while going backwards kept pushing the throttle, instead of waiting till fully stopped.

Or someone simply just accidentally dropped the engine, and landed on the shaft bending it, knocked it out of trueness or round.

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TS Racing Or Comet Karts? If I’m not mistaken Victory kart and Eagle karts may be the same? Not sure, but you may wanna look into it 1st. But for brakes, this should be a good replacement deal.

http://www.tsracing.com/store/showprod.cfm?&DID=7&User_ID=4277089&st=3263&st2=-87019505&st3=86708864&CATID=13&ObjectGroup_ID=87

http://victorykarts.com/CONTACT.html

 

https://cometkartsales.com/MCP-Brake-Disc/

https://cometkartsales.com/MCP-Brakes-and-Parts/

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Nik

You don’t have to buy a brand new chassis for that 4 cycle class

A good used chassis will do, and will still be very competitive

There are tons of good used chassis here in Cali, and can be shipped for under $200 bucks or less. Just a thought.

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Adam

You may be right, it may be necessary to install a small 12v battery to complete the circuit, shortly after that you may wanna check for spark

Did you clean the carburetor?

Did the engine run before the last owner gave it to you?

If so, then install a new battery, prime the fuel to make sure there are no air pockets in the fuel line, pull the choke up and fire that puppy up, hook up a spark tester to make sure you’re getting spark, if not then start looking at your wiring harness and coil. That would be a good place to start.

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Don’t worry, it won’t be boring for you next time, I’ll give you some entertainment.

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Very nice video, Bryan. I like the music too.

Maybe on your next video you can play sad music, like blues, and get a nice view of my rear bumper on your go pro. Lol

When are you gonna have the other videos uploaded for heat #2 and the main

I wanna see, as Indy’s go pro went flying and the chip fell out.

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Hey, Mike

I was too busy repairing Dave’s kart and my own kart during the race, that I missed your kid’s race, and from what I understand he did a great job! Could you please send me some videos?

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Is the motor still fresh/ too tight? Try a new plug

Are you running the same rear sprocket and same clutch driver?

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Mike

Another thing to consider is:

If the driver is not setting up for the last corner before the straight away, and does not come out of the corner fast enough, it will never reach the desired RPM, there isn’t enough time, or enough track left.

Most of us struggle at the horse shoe, if we don’t set up for it we won’t come out of it fast and right, we cannot recover latter and we won’t get the speed or the RPM we want. Just a thought. Fast Freddy  ;)

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Greg

Remove front torsion bar, go 2-2 on the camber and toe, try hard axle, 2 seat struts on each side, and 54″ at rear track, move the seat about 2″ to  3″ forward and lean it back about 8.5  to 9.5″ from lip to axle.

I am not an expert, but with my fat ass, and my hight this seems the only thing that works for me.

I hope this helps, or at least give you a good starting point, and if he doesn’t like it, then you can put it back where it was and try something else.

And after that if he doesn’t like it, tell him “life is not for everyone” No, I’m just kidding, sorry. Lol

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Greg

How tall or short is the driver? What type of kart is he driving?

Can you install a flat bottom seat, and lower it all the way down?

Maybe slide the seat a little forward? anything that would create the kart to wanna pancake, maybe try a soft axle?

You mention he’s a the right legal weight, but do you have to ad weigh to the kart at all, or he needs no weight at all?

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Richard Gordon

I didn’t mean to offend you, I do have a weird sense of humor, I apologize if I offended you with my comment.

I am not the reason why this sport is the way it is, and I assure you I have taken my shirt off to help the needy racer, or the new karter, we also have several karts available to help people learn how to drive, educate them about the sport before they make a purchase.

There have been many times where guys use even our personal karts to test and get a clue of how it is, not to mention constantly giving people a wrenching hand when lost and confused at the track.

I am not gonna get into details with numbers, how many wins, how many championships I’ve won, because it will not be a fair statement.

I just simply made a statement about the reality, I am not responsible why top of the line karts are so expensive, and why the value and market for their product is so high, if OTK karts have a price tag and that is the value of their equipment then more power to them, I don’t have a major in economics or finances, but just by looking at their factory, equipment, facility, machinery, state of the are operation, etc I would probably do the same thing, as this is not a charity event, this is a business.

I am an old fashion kind of guy too, that would love the sport get better, and I totally have a passion for the sport and the people in it.

Driving any good old kart does it for me, and I am a believer that no matter how old or beat up your kart is you should be able to drive it like you stall it, and make it work for you, but at the end of the day I get my butt kicked by the newer technology, better quality, etc. I’ve had my share of frustration with low end karts, so I decided to work less and used better chassis.

It’s just like buying a socket from harbor freight tools, or a nicer better socket from Snap-On Tool ( which I have my share on those too) and it all boils down to frustration for me, don’t give me wrong they both get the job done, but 1 does it better, faster, and probably won’t hurt you.

Please understand that we’re just trying to answer your questions here in this forum, and I’d like to believe that we are a family of karters

I really wish OTK karts were cheaper (less expensive, I would really love that)

I hope we’re all cool with this.

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Life is not for everyone! LOL

I’m sorry I just couldn’t help it, I meant to say “karting/ or racing is not for everyone”

Tim Koyen hits it right in the nail, there is a reason why top quality karts run up front, and win races/championships, I don’t see cheap karts dominating at big events.

I also agree that there is a budget for everyone, I could personally buy a brand new economy kart and start racing with it, but I can also assure you I will get extremely frustrated from trying so hard to catch up with the faster guys ( I like to win ) I would take a long time for me to find the correct set up, axle stiffness, hubs, spindles, seat position, etc before I could start having fun. When I can just pull my OTK kart out of the box and start kicking butt.

It’s just like starting a race with cold tires, or starting the race on hot tires out of the tire warmers.

We’ve had so many different kart manufactures through the years, including top US brands, and let me tell you something My kid will never want to use anything else other than his Alonso kart (Blue Tony Kart/ OTK)

I encourage everyone to get back to the point ( Why are karts so expensive?)

I think we’ve already established that ( You wanna play, You gotta Pay )

Cheap and karting do not go together. If I can’t afford to buy a starter, a clutch or a good quality suit, maybe I shouldn’t be racing, I would wait till a season in time when it’s affordable. My 2 cents.

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How tall is the driver? How much does he weigh? What engine is he running?

Assuming he’s not heavier that 220 lbs and not taller than 6 feet

A good starting point would be 8.5″ to 9.5″ at rear of seat lip to axle

3″ to 4″ from bottom middle of seat lip (by your nuts) To steering uprights

put a couple of 2×4’s at the bottom of frame rails under seat.

If he fits just right, and reaches the pedals pretty comfortably, then I would say start drilling, fasten it up and test drive. If he likes it and it handles great, leave it alone. Lol. Fast Freddy.

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