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The best one man kart stand I’ve owned was made by KartLift, and it was the none electric one, just leverage and shocks operated ( I loved it!!!! )

I bought it back in the day when my 18 year old was a baby, and it lasted me forever. The only issue is that back in those days rear plastic bumpers had not been invented yet, so the hooks were designed for a tube bumper.

But that’s not a problem, they do come with the new bumper style hooks now.

Look into it, you won’t regret it. Easy to operate, and very light, plus it folds into a little flat frame box.

In my opinion the big electric stands were a good idea, but being so big, bulky and heavy, not to mention slowwwwww, and it throws your back trying to lift it or moving it around, makes the initial thought of saving your back useless. Most guys at my track that have those things are always in the way, we all have to wait for them to finish unloading their karts before we can set our karts down, and trying to move them out of the way is a pain in the butt. Sorry if I offended any electric kart stand owners, that’s my opinion on those things, but what doesn’t work for me may work for somebody else.  Fast Freddy.  :)

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Just buy carpet padding, and patio carpet (grey or black boat carpet) from lowes or home depot, buy a tube of yellow  weather strip glue, buy a razor blade.

Cut to fit pieces to make your seat a 1/4 padded seat, glue foam padding to seat so that it will stay on the seat first while you work on wrapping the carpet around the padding and roll it over the inside lip of the seat edges, your carpet should be about 1 inch to 1 1/2 longger than the foam. Drill the holes through the carpet, the same place they were. Re install the seat after drying off glue, tighten all bolts. That puppy will look factory quality when done.

And live happily ever after.  FastFreddy.  ;)

 

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Bryan! just use bulldozer yellow tape, or caution tape, that way people will know when you’re coming to plow all the karts out off the track. Lol

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Lol. No worries, Mr Giff

I can forward the emails, and tell her to send you her pics instead, it’s never too late.

Dave, thank you for taking care of it.

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I use maxima chain wax, and it works ok, but it’s a pain in the but to clean up afterwards.

Motul and triflo make an awesome product that works very well

http://www.accelerationkarting.com/search.aspx?find=chain+lube

This little guy works wonders, and it’s guey http://www.tsracing.com/store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Product_ID=487&CATID=7

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I have at least 2 if not 3 of those Tony Kart Mgnesium mounts Cliff is talking about, that were specifically made for that chassis. You can probably drill some holes to make it a 4 cycle bolt pattern.

You can have them for $65 bucks, plus shipping, if you’d like.

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Brian, this is very simple, and Rob hit it right in the nail

Another thing to consider is that new sprockets aren’t very accurate, even the one piece types, what I found out most of the time is that they won’t even fit perfectly on the hub, so I always make an effort to shave off any imperfections from the machining on the inside with a rat file or an oval shape file, just go around the whole circle (inside of bothe halves) gentilly and evenly and will fit like a glove.

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John

This is extremely easy to do

Order a 15 degree engine mount from BMI karts, these are extremely adjustable, and will fit any European and American karts (universal)

You can adjust 2 to 3 notches on any direction, front back or side.

You may wanna give them a call 1st, as I don’t see any 15 degree mounts available, but they used to have them by the ton.

And yes, that chassis will do just fine with a 4 cycle engine, you may have to cut the rear crossmember or bend it a little, to clear the inboard rear sprocket.http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Degree-Angled-Motor-Mount-for-Honda-Briggs-Clone-Predator-Engines-Go-Kart-/221292508160

Here’s a link to that mount, hope this helps. Fast Freddy   :)

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Tory, welcome to the sport. There will be days when you show up to the track to play, and some others when you just have a hard time and just wrench

Don’t get discouraged, this happens to all of us, soon or later.

Please tell me how exactly you bleed the front brakes. Did you use the tool for gravity feed? If not then that could be a problem, you can’t really pump that system like a car.

Usually master cylinders should be rebuilt right about the same time.

 

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Listen to people’s advice here. It will be very beneficial to you

I honestly agree with buying a brand new starter, or a good used one. You will be very thankful in the long run

Not to mention Trying to set up your kart to direct drive will take you to a whole new level of steep learning experience, and may be too difficult for you to adjust, especially if you’re new.

$200.00 bucks is not too bad at all. You may be able to find an old one on ebay, and just install a new battery from the lawn and garden at walmart for less than that.

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Sean

My buddy has a complete set, except hoses or MC

I really do not know if they are for a Top Kart or OTK

You should call him (661) 805-7004 Orville

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Bryan, here’s a link      http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Helicopter-Tape-Save-Your-Kart-Graphics-12-Wide-any-Length-/111643496998?hash=item19fe789226&vxp=mtr

All you’ve gotta do is not get too closed to me, give me more room at the pit turn, horse shoe turn, and stay behind me the whole time

That way you wont have to worry about those cute graphics. Lol  Fast Frreddy.  :)

No, with all kidding aside, yeah I would use brake cleaner, carb cleaner or a rag with gasoline and rub on it a little bit, try not to over do it, just like TJ said, or else it will remove the clear coat and part of the color.

There is also a product out there designed to protect graphics, I think it’s called helicopter tape (clear tape ) Last time I checked on ebay, from a guy down in Orange county Cali. Hope that helps, buddy

P.S. The only graphics you’ll have to worry about with me is your front bumper ones, that’s of course if you get closed enough. Lol Sorry.  :) FastFreddy

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Mark

I used to have a really nice and clean CRG cadet shifter kart, a few years ago

I think I found it again, I really think this is the one, as it still has all my stickers. ( That’s too funny!!! )

Anyhow, please give this guy a call, just trying to help. Good luck, FastFreddy.  ;)

http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/snw/4957110866.html

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Sarah

I think I may know what you’re talking about, but Could you please upload some pictures, so that we can see what’s actually happening?

Thank you, Fast Freddy.  ;)

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Hope this helps, you can always install a new graphic set over the unwanted color. Fast Freddy.  ;)

http://www.empirekarts.com/bodywork/?sort=featured&page=4

http://fastech-racing.com/kg-unico-stilo/

http://www.accelerationkarting.com/unicobodyworkcompleteset.aspx

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It all depends on what your budget is, where you’re gonna race at, club level, regional, or National?

Another thing to consider is. How is the track you’re gonna be racing at?

Short, sprint and tight? Long straight aways, or short straight aways? Bumpy or smooth, slick or gripy?

You stated on your ad as What the best chassis would be?

That can open a can of worms, as people will actually recommend the highest level of competition chassis available, with out thinking about the price tag.

Anyhow, let us know, and welcome back to the sport. Fast Freddy.  ;)

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Hey, Wayne

Here’s the rest of the race schedule, for Bakersfield Kart Raceway. Please come and join us, and let us know when we can come down to Willow Springs, as a few guys wanna race out of town.

http://www.bakersfieldshootout.com/

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Brian

Your pictures are not uploading successfully here, you have to use a server like facebook, or photo bucket.

Just send me some pics to my email address, I’ll steer you in the right direction, buddy.

fastracerfreddy@aol.com

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Install spacers between the caliper halves, you should have more clearance than that, check all the hardware on the rotor and hub.

Go drive it, or try it on the stand. if it still drags, and the pads are not returning, then you have a hydraulic problem.

Either the calipers are sticking, or your master is.

Try that procedure, to narrow it down first. Please post pictures of what you’ve got, so we can help you better. FastFreddy.   ;)

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Sorry, Bill

I just sold it today

Let me check on Monday, and see if I may have another one.

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Is it Corsa? Or Corsair? If it’s Corsa then that’s not the make, that should be the model. Not sure if made by Sodi Kart, or Hasse?

Please post some pictures, we can tell you what kind it is. FastFreddy.  ;)

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Paul

Generally speaking most Euro karts are a bit lighter, depending on the tubing size and diameter, components can actually ad up a bit too.

I almost wanna say that OTK ( Tony Karts are very light )

Your hight and weight is not that far off from many guys I race with, honestly most guys are at 215, 225, and 230. Many, including myself try to shed 20 to 30 lbs from time to time, with some noticeable success.

Also at 6’2″ tall is not impossible to fit in most karts, I’ve seen bigger guys fitting in no problem, but Margay Brava Limo makes a very suitable kart for taller drivers, and CRG “Big Al ” Is also a very good option, some of the newer Tony Kart EVK are also pretty tall driver friendly.

 

As for your budget goes, you would have to determine What class and club you wanna race  at, and what the spec engine is to be able to race legally.

But if all you want is the good old weekend warrior, then any decent well maintained used kart/engine package will do.

Let us know what your budget is, and engine type to better help you, and steer you in the right direction. Hope this helps. FastFreddy.  ;)

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I do have a couple of good ones

Do you need a complete package with clutch, mount, pipe and all?

Or just the motor and carb alone?

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http://cometkartsales.com/0307.H0F-FA-Kart-Complete-Sticker-Kit-M4.html

 

 

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Robert

Is this a good option?

I know the guy real well, and can be shipped for less than $150 to your town

http://bakersfield.craigslist.org/mcy/4886211656.html

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