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These guys all build great engines

P1, Dough Flemmings, Woltjer, Hiper engines, MCR, Orville wright from PKS, Adkins, etc.

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I have 3 rollers

2—– 2014 Tony Kart EVK $1800 a piece

1—– 2015 Ricciardo kart $2000

Is this what you’re looking for? or Older and cheaper?

 

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Pete. Are we talking older as a vintage? 2002 to 2006?

Or only a couple/few years old

How old do you want it, What engine package do you wanna run with it?

And What is your budget you wanna spend on it?

Thanks. Freddy.

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Steve. This is an early Tony Kart model ( pre 08 or 09) Maybe even older, as the side pod nerf bars go towards the front rather than on the side, it also has a welded tab at the end of the inside  frame rail at the back.

Overall I think it may be a 2002 to 2008 Tony Kart Mitox, and somebody powder coated it blue, as there were no Alonso karts or Kosmic Karts back then.

Anyhow, I hope this helps, and good luck with your plans. FastFreddy.  .)

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Sold, Please Delete.

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Depending on the track, and how aggressive it is on tires, and if it’s mostly left hander, your right side tires are gonna wear out faster.

We have the same issue at our local club track, we call it the cheese shreader

You may wanna try swapping your tires around every heat race, that way they all wear out evenly.

That MG Yellow tire could be difficult to tune for, we ran the same tire at Cal State championship and we sucked big time. Some of the fastest guys were able to figure it out, and for the rest of us the kart just fell off as they got hotter, not to mention we were running a lower HP engine package, and it did not like it at all ( it became a tank )

After we finished the main event, the tires were so sticky that when we picked up the kart off the ground it got glued down on the floor.

P.S. You may wanna run higher PSI and see how it likes it

Depending on air density and track conditions I used to have the same issue, and was running real low psi, I was told to try 15 or 16 and I thought the guy was crazy, but I tried it anyway, and my kart really liked it, I gess some karts like higher psi? Anyhow, just my 2 cents. Hope this helps.

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Dan

I’m not an expert, as I do have my share of struggles with chassis set up and tuning.

But that lift looks pretty good to me, and that kind of lift is what gives you better engine speed, as you’re not binding the power when the kart is flat like a pancake.

I would try changing your line, and apply very minimum steering?

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Jim

It will work great! We have 2 of those, and we also have 2 OTK karts

The Tony karts are awesome too, there is something different about the Birels though. The back end flexes really nice, especially when you accidentally ride over the kerbs with your rear tires, it will absorbe the impact and not upset the kart nor will toss you across the other side of the track.

We also run Yamaha, and KPV. I think you’ll like it.

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Rod

I had the same issue, same kind of body also

I tried all the ones you mentioned, and an OTK #3 (too tight)

Then I took my chances and ordered an OTK #4 And my butt, hips and lower thorso fit very well, the only issue is that the upper part of my body will need lots of extra padding to hold me fit and in place.

I don’t think there are many options for my body shape, other than Ribtech Deep seat, but I don’t want one of those.

Anyhow, that’s what I did and it worked for me. Good luck. Freddy.

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Welcome to the sport

No worries, seat strut cracks do break from time to time, being the one closest to the engine most likely the seller did not notice, or it fail while driving

I’ve had a few cracked on me several times from fatigue. This doesn’t mean you got a bad chassis.

Very important to have the right angle and correct bend on the strut before installation, otherwise it will fail again, this means if it doesn’t touch the seat once you install it at the cassettes then it’s probably not at the right angle.

It needs to be flushed with the seat and have very minimum pressure to it, almost like spring loaded rod.

You may get away by re welding it and be ok for a long time, but may be a good idea to always have some spare ones ( you just never know when one of them is gonna fail during a race weekend)

I hope we’re talking about the chrome seat struts and not the actual chassis tabs? Good luck to you and have fun. Fast Freddy.

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Chad

That’s exactly what I was thinking L0206, that’s too funny, these were my first thoughts, I also thought it could be a 2004 model, but when I saw the side pod nerf bars location on the sides rather than towards the front, then I thought it would have to be newer, but I could be wrong.

Overall good chassis though.

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Marco

This seems to be a 2008 Paul Tracy Kart, made by CRG

It should be a good club level chassis for a season, if there’s a class for that engine at your club. Once you get better, and more competitive eventually you’re gonna wanna go faster and be able to compete in bigger events, which means newer kart, at least a year old kart.

Honestly all you need is a rear plastic bumper and mounting brackets, you can use the same hardware inside the frame rails, but will need longer bolts.

Welcome to the sport, here’s a link to your parts needed

http://www.fastech-racing.com/kg-rear-bumper-spoiler-cik14-adult.html

http://www.fastech-racing.com/kg-rear-bumper-mount-made-by-kg-cik-homologated.html

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Brian, Thank you for your input, and yes, I’m very familiar with the installation process, as we always install them on our OTK karts, but for what ever reason these don’t fit Ricciardo Karts, or Birel Karts (the tabs are different )

My question to you is: What brand protectors are you using?

Kart Lift, Kerb Rider, etc? I’m really interested to know which ones fits your Birels. Thank you.

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I have 2 used, in good shape 2 disc dry clutches, for Senior ( Horstman )

You can probably get 3 good races out of them before rebuilding

And I also have about 2 or 3 Wet clutches (L&T) In great shape.

P.M. Me if still interested.

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How old do you want them? Like 1 race old? Or Worn tires?

Do they only have to be Bridgestones YLC, or Can they be MG Yellows too?

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