[Chris Reinhardt]

Yah, anything is fixable, that frame isn’t fixable….  The main front tube is not bent, it’s kinked, which means it has to be replaced, along with the front porch, and at least the right side bar.  It’s a bread box chassis, so it’s pretty old at this point.

And even if you did find somebody to spend the time to repair it,  the chassis would never handle the same, and I’m sure it wouldn’t be cheap….

I’m sure you have some money into it, sorry to say, your best bet is to write it off…..

One thing you could do is look for a Road Rebel with rear brakes only, the chassis are usually a lot cheaper, and swap your stuff over….

 

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

In Chris R’s hands, it ain’t bad either…..  All I need is an Ass Gas motor…. NOT!!!!!

I’m working on an EFI CRF450, should be ready for the 2014 season….

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

First off, there’s no reason to replate a cylinder unless there’s a score in it, or it’s out of spec, which is unlikely.  The reason they don’t allow replating in the stock Honda class, is that part of the replating process is to clean up the slag left behind from the plating operation.  The “clean up”  would be hard to regulate, and in the right hands, could be a big advantage…  And as stated above, you can get a new cylinder for about the price of a replate, so would you anyway?

Run a fine flex hone through it, wash with soap and water real good, put a fresh top end in, good to do….

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-4-Engine-Cylinder-FlexHone-Flex-Hone-320-grit-57mm-/370892008177?hash=item565ae2eaf1&vxp=mtr

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

My dad actually had a few setup and ran them at OVRP.  The ones he used were clone motors, based off a Honda XL200, I believe.  Electric start, they were cool, never caught on though….

It’s a great idea, but it’s difficult for anyone to invest in something that isn’t an actual series or class…  You saw that happen with the Rotax classes.  SSC threw a ton of money to create a series, now there’s how many different TAG classes?

My suggestion would be to get a couple of buddies to go in with you at your local track.  If get three people to start a class, you might have a chance at getting something going…

Go luck…

CR

 

[Chris Reinhardt]

^+1

Generally speaking, if you can “SEE” where it’s bent with your eye, it’s trash…

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

If the motor is using “room” air, which I would not suggest….  You would be surprised how quickly the room air will get contaminated with CO, and alter your results…  You really need fresh outside air for the motor to breath….

So in that scenario, it would be outside air temp….

CR

 

 

[Chris Reinhardt]

Post some pics so we can get a better idea of what you have.

The Heron chassis became the Road Rebel I believe…..  Most all that 40mm axle, 17mm front axle, 8mm king pin bolt should transfer to a newer CRG Road Rebel.   You might be better off finding an older Road Rebel chassis, and break your chassis down for spares….

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

I guess your best option would be too see if you can get your money back, short of that, this is all pretty easy to validate.

If you can get your hands on a manual, a voltmeter and a peak voltage tester start digging in.  The stator assembly needs to put out 100 volts peak and the trigger is about .7 volts peak.   All the way out to the coil connections is also 100 volts peak.  Check the coil for an open/short correct impedance.  Then check your wiring for shorts and opens…  All things are possible, but I have never seen a bad OEM Honda CDI box in my 30+ years of racing, it’s easy enough to swap it with a known good one…

Good luck….

[Chris Reinhardt]

Let me guess, they sold him a whole CDI and coil setup?  I smell something…..

Basically, if the stator will plug into the CDI it will work.  I’ve swapped around parts from about 1990 to 1996 or 97, they all work.  Coils, I’ve used just about any year with just about any ignition, they all work.

Clark’s suggestion is probably number 1 to check, bad coil or cap/wire number 2, open or shorted wire in the harness number 3, and bad stator :( number 4.

To date, I have never seen a bad CDI on a Honda….

[Chris Reinhardt]

MRP is the importer for Birel, I’m sure you could get OEM from them.  The OEM’s really aren’t fragile, they might be Magnesium, but I have seen them run without issues…  The OEM would probably be 2x the price of what you sourced in a Righetti or Wildkart part..

You’re on the right track, good luck…

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

The part you are referring to is called the cassette.  What I usually do with the adjustable ones is take them in my hand with the bearing and snug them.  You basically want all the play out, but you should be able to rotate the bearing about the cassette freely, but snug.  Too tight and the kart will hop through the corner loading and unloading with a jerking motion…

BTW I would either replace both outside cassettes with new ones, or just replace the one and put it in the middle position….

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

Yes and yes…

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

A set of these:

[Chris Reinhardt]

Andy, you’re welcome, hope that helps…

Hegar, why is it every time somebody talks about a crack pipe, you chime in? :)

Jimmy, I would be happy if they fixed the quote button/buttons!!!

 

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

Andy, that’s called “stop drill”, the first time I saw that was an aviation application where a crack in the plexiglass is drilled to keep the crack from propagating.  If it’s welded properly, it won’t propagate from that crack, ie, welded all the way through.  What will happen, is that it will crack near that area because the metal has been weakened from the welding heat.  You could also normalize the area after welding it, but that’s not a guaranty.

A repair for my own pipe I heat the area up with a torch to clean off the inside, let it cool down, run a back purge, set the heat a little hotter on the tig so the weld speed is faster, and zip it up quick….

Everybody has their way of doing things, a manufacturer, doesn’t want to see it come back again….

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

I’ve worked in manufacturing plants for more years than I like to share, generally speaking,  if it’s cracked and you weld , it will crack in the same spot or near it.  Putting heat into it from welding, weakens the material, Jimmy didn’t elaborate, but I would have to guess they welded the crack shut, THEN put a patch of metal on top to strengthen the area…  That IS how I would do it for a customer…..

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

At least it has a warranty……

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

Not that there’s anything wrong with the ‘s, there’s certainly more options, just that to get the same functionality of a 3 Gold in a 4, it will cost you more than $800….

[Chris Reinhardt]

Good thing SKUSA fixed that problem :)

 

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

I would think long and hard before you replace your 3 Gold, they are a great unit and I am sure it will not take much to get it repaired and then it should give you many more years of good service.

 

 

+1

Send it back to Mychron and have it repaired….

 

PS Is there anybody that can fix the quote button????  This is really annoying…

[Chris Reinhardt]

I built an upgrade kit for rear only CRG VEN04 brakes.  It uses two Brembo calipers, and the factory CRG masters….

Correction, they fit VEN04 brakes….

[Chris Reinhardt]

I pulled him around the first lap!!!

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

Thank god karts will never get 4 strokes :)

[Chris Reinhardt]

250 twin= two cylinders equaling 250cc not two 250 cylinders!!!  Somebody tried two CR125’s, if one misses a gear, it’s a nightmare….

CR

[Chris Reinhardt]

I wasn’t joking,  0.7 seconds difference in a sprint race is huge, I don’t think it’s that much for the top 5 in Stock Honda road race….

Maybe I’ll see you at Summit this weekend?  Oh that’s right Howie says I don’t race…. :)

CR

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