[Brian Degulis]

Go with the longest silencer you can fit. They have very strict noise restrictions down there an 8″ may get you black flaged. They very rarely go to full track. With the normal track configuration I don’t thing a longer silencer will be a problem.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

Lots of old guys on here and it makes me feel better. I started early 70’s with Mac’s. Went a couple of years and moved on to other things . Here I am 40 years  later back into it with my kids. We used to mount a starter on a hand truck and use a belt to the engine to start the Mac’s.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

I flush the fluid ever 3 months or so and only rebuild if somethings leaking. I found keeping the fluid clean prevents problems.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

Sometimes I think it’s a shame that out of the box thinking and inovation have such a small presence in karting. I get the cost drawback but the way we do it now leaves all the inovation to the manufatures and they aren’t real big on cost control.

 

Cool stuff Robert. I envy your club racing. We had something like that here but it got shut down because of insurance complications. Hopefully it will get worked out.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

Make sure the yoke  (part where snipers attach) is wide enough to mount the snipers some are not.

I like them I have them on top only and get more than enough range of adjustment.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

Ian I don’t think I need the power valve and I don’t have TPS. Do you have an opinion on power out put with the mods I did (RAD valve + PWK Carb) along with your ignition system?  Do you know what the HP is on the stock engine?

I sent you a PM for price and avaiability of your ignition system.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

If the bone stock 03 bike engine is 45HP Which seems to be what the bike guys are saying That’s with the OEM Honda pipe. I got my pipe from Mike at Shark Shifter (Knowledgeable helpful guy). Lets assume the kart pipe has no effect on HP. I ran the kart all stock before doing any mods and I don’t have any way of knowing for sure but I think the carb and RAD valve probably added a good 5HP the difference was dramatic. If that’s true then it’s putting out around 50 HP.

I should probably think about getting rid of the power valves and going with  Ian’s ignition system.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

It has more than the the CRF 250 That’s about the same as a stock honda (kart kit). I don’t know if the HP is acurate I’m going by what’s on the net.

http://www.dirtbikemagazine.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=Publishing&mod=Publications%3A%3AArticle&mid=8F3A7027421841978F18BE895F87F791&tier=4&id=B3CE309756F740A8B243F4F48F39FA16

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

Thanks Chris  I’ll give that a try

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

I’m not finding anything for upgraded ignition for a 2003 seems like the 2001 is readily available but not the 03.

Nigel it definetly had more power than a 125. The problem was that there was no top end. If you look at the power curve for an 03 it hits around 46 HP @ 8000 RPM after that it really falls off. I never messed with the OEM Mikuni carb so maybe it could have been dialed in and made better but the Air Striker was much better even before it was jetted. I ended up with a 180 main 55 pilot clip in mid position. Between that and the rad valve it really woke up the top end. Now it’s considerably faster than a 125 but not as fast as the CRF450.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

I just put together a 2003 CR250 sprint kart. I left the power valves operational. Stock it was a disapointment more than a 125 but not much more. I swapped the stock Mikuni carb for a PWK air striker and swapped the OEM reed for a Boysen RAD. That woke it up a lot.

So what would be the next logical step to wake it up some more.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

 

I bought a used kart from them. It arrived on time and the condition was better than they described. I’ve used them for parts frequently and always a good experience. I would not hesitate to use they’re services.

 

Brian

 

[Brian Degulis]

You can get 40 MM hubs for the front with the standard metric pattern and not bother with the special (more expensive) CRG wheels.  http://cometkartsales.com/WildKart-40mm-Lip-Style-Rear-Wheel-Hub.html

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

Try these guys with measurments   http://www.spikeradiators.com/

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

I think he means raising the linkage rod to a higher position on the pedal. That will get the pads to make contact sooner but there will be less pressure on the pads for any given amount of pedal pressure.

Some karts have a larger gap between the pads and rotor by design. If your satisfied that all the air has been bled out and the pads are not worn I would set the pedal back stop where you want it and adjust the linkage rod shorter. That will get rid of the excess pedal travel. There needs to be some free travel or the brakes will drag when they heat up.

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

DR uses a round arm       http://www.tsracing.com/store/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Product_ID=6092&CATID=43

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

A lot less shifting with a CRF250 but they aren’t as fast as a CR125. I think the HP is about the same but the CRF is heavier and it’s hard to get the kart balanced. The maintenance IMO is a tos up. The CRF is more complex to re build but they go longer than the CR’s and parts are everywhere.

The CRF 450 (around 12 lbs heavier than the CRF 250) will kill a 125 anything.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

Thanks  I still have it. Forever a work in progress.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

The engine kit new is $5500. Your talking the complete kart. IMO if it was a professional instalation and rebuild and assuming the kart’s in decent shape it sounds like a good deal.

It has some value because they’re arent many around. It looses some value because in most parts of the country there is no class to race them. If you look at EKN classic there is a thread on the CRF250.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

The new CRF250 engine kit from Honda HPD is $5500 for a new fuel injected engine. If it’s a professional instalation and everything is in good shape it’s a good deal. The CRFs are a cool ride. Lots of bottom end grunt and almost no power band to speak of if you mis a gear you can just power through. I started with the 250 then went to the 450 HANG ON!!!!!

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

I use a punch to pop a hole in the shield. I pump minerals spirts in the hole with a horse size hypodermic needle, clean them out then pump in some 90W gear oil. I only do that after they pick up dirt as long as they’re running smooth I leave them alone.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

Wait You’ll probably want to go 125.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

It’s probably a good deal. Paying a little more for something that’s in exceptionaly good condition is always a better deal than paying less for something that’s beat up.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

I have a PTK and it’s a decent chassis. The CR80 is a good ride but they aren’t very popular. Around here you wouldn’t be able to find a race but for track days no problem. The price seems a little high for a CR80 kart. My opinion is based on average condition with out front brakes. If it’s very clean and well maintained it’s probably a good deal. If it has front brakes better yet with them if you decide to go up to a 125 in the future you can with that chassis.

 

Brian

[Brian Degulis]

[quote quote=19600]thanks Peter, am I accurate in assuming that the majority of guys in S1 or S4 etc are running 32 chassis though? if so I am curious as to your thoughts on why they do? it would seem to me that peak cornerning forces are likely as higher or higher in the rotax TAG classes so I am curious why the 125 shifter guys run the stiffer/thicker chassis.[/quote]

 

The answer may be Torque. Rotax is 28 HP lets say for the sake of discussion a CR80 is close to the same. When you add a gearbox to the equation the torque your putting to the axle rockets up. Torque not only requires more grip it also requires a stiffer frame to minimise deflection.

 

Brian

[Author]

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