[tony zambos]

I would have had no objection to a large production company with a half dozen pit reporters and a dozen camera crews covering the road races. But I survived with a combination of Race Monitor and posts from a few FB friends. Thank you to all of them. Hope there will be more posts from more people next year. Guess I’ll need more racing friends in the future. Never thought though of checking Speedhive during the weekend. The results are there now but have know idea of how soon after the race they were posted.

[tony zambos]

I’d run one on each side of the left axle bearing to hold the axle stationary. The axle moving could cause your brake rotor to drag and at best slow you down. Worst case is the rotor exploding.
And I’d put them inside the hubs to prevent the tire moving in and contacting body work or the chassis.

[tony zambos]

Tim,
Before you head to a track, check the track’s web site or, better yet, call the track. Your engine builder and the association that runs at the track are other resources. You should be able to learn at least a starting point for gearing. Bring a couple of extra rear gears to bracket the recommendation. Also ask here on the Forum.

[tony zambos]

Welcome to the Forum

[tony zambos]

It was recommended to me years ago to remove the spark plug, add a little Marvel’s Mystery oil into the cylinder, run the piston up and down a couple of times, then put the plug back in. Drain the fuel from the carb. Before next season, rebuild the carb.

[tony zambos]

IMO – Yes. For the simple reason that you want as little to fail in the future as possible. If there isn’t any end play in the bearings, keep them as spares. If it was me, I’d replace every bearing you could, i.e., steering shaft, tie-rod ends, spindle and king-pin. But it would be a good idea before you start the restoration, take the frame to a kart shop and insure the frame is straight first.

[tony zambos]

The rub is an ital kart feature. The rub will not be significant to impair steering or braking.

[tony zambos]

Gary,

Left you a PM

[tony zambos]

Gary,

Yes, it’s still available

[tony zambos]

Another questionable 2-cycle post under the “Mini Rok oil fuel ratio” thread.

[tony zambos]

David,
There is another strange post to the same thread. Maybe it was a White Sox’s fan.

[tony zambos]

Certainly take Walt’s advice. Try swapping the carbs between motors. And I’ve that engine builders are human. Work with him.

[tony zambos]

Rod,
The bottom line is that motor probaby needs to go into a shop. A worn ring, piston, cylinder or all of the above. Assuming you have the same type plug in each engine. You try a new plug, properly gapped, and see if that helps.

[tony zambos]

Curious why you want to run without the battery. Check your ground connections and ground wires plus the air gap on the coil.

[tony zambos]

PM me with your email address and I’ll send you the two pages out the manual that you’ll need. Somewhere I have a Rotax piston stop and the fixation tool for the older clutch drum with holes. Both have never been used if you’re interested. I was never in favor using the piston stop tool, as there is a better tool, but the manual does say to use one.
In addition, you’ll need a deep well socket to remove the nut that holds the gear on. Believe it’s an 1.5 inch and I got mine from Auto Zone. It will help if you have the face of the socket ground down flat to properly engage the nut. A long breaker bar and Loctite are the only other tools needed.

[tony zambos]

What’s your intensions for this engine/chassis package? A cracked head would be the tip of the iceberg. The engine will require a full rebuild because you have no idea how much wear there is to the crank, rod, piston, ring and cylinder. The carb will need to be cleaned in a sonic bath and rebuilt. Seals for the water pump will be bad. A Rotax is not the cheapest engine to repair and we haven’t begun speaking about making this engine legal to compete. If you’re going to race with it, check with the association you plan to compete with. The clutch will have to be upgraded. An upgrade to the latest spec EVO will be costly and will require replacing the top end of the motor, plus the electronics, plus the carb. Can you see the picture here? Call any Rotax repair center for an idea of the cost. Engine wise, I’d suggest a simpler engine to start out with, a Yamaha Kt100.
Have no knowledge about an Avanti chassis. Check for the availability of parts and that chassis is not bent or cracked.

[tony zambos]

Your kart maybe over stuck and dragging your rpm’s down or you’re using the wrong gear ratio. Other areas to look at is front and rear tire widths, tire pressures, caster, toe and weight placement. Sorry, nothing is easy.
Try calling Top kart in Indianapolis. And try asking your competitors. If you’re truly a newbie, you should get help. Most information will apply across many different types of chassis, but you seek out someone with another Top Kart.

[tony zambos]

Bob,
you should only have to lap the clutch once to insure the two tapered surfaces match. I’ve used a valve lapping compound from my local auto parts store.

[tony zambos]

Welcome to the forum and karting.
Look for an ID plate on the chassis tube running behind the seat, or any stampings on the kart. Your probably are going to have to submit photos with your post of the chassis. Under the Forum tab, see Forum Guidelines-FAQ to learn how to post a picture. If you get stuck, ask how on the Forum.

[tony zambos]

Look back at Walt’s post. 4 ounces of oil per 128 ounces is a ratio of 32:1. 30cc of oil per 1000cc of fuel is 33.3:1. You say that you’re new to karting. Go with the manual recommendation or maybe just a little more. Work on chassis setups and consistent lap times. Have fun.

[tony zambos]

Chalk this up to stuff happens at a race track. It seems that the massive Windows update had nothing to do with problem. The RS data base got clobbered for some reason. Removed all the test session and all the remaining data in the AIM DATA folder. Reloaded all the data and was good.

[tony zambos]

I never had much luck with the cheep batteries. They are fine as a backup battery in an emergency exit sign but not built for the abuse of a race track. Took most back to the store the first day after they were used at as track. Purchase batteries designed to run TAG. Recommend the 9ah over the 7.2.

A +1 to Jim’s suggestion to go with the Lithium

[tony zambos]

David,
I seem to be getting emails form all of the forums and posts that I’ve subscribed to. Thanks

[tony zambos]

No changes to my EKN account. And the funny thing is the only email notification that I haven’t received is your last post to this thread. David, I’m OK with the notifications working or not. Please don’t spend any time on this. Will let you know if anything changes. tony

[tony zambos]

Use the link below to download the jetting and power valve article by John Savage. John recommends a 3mm float height. That’s a good place to start. I used 4mm but I come from a road race background.
Note: you can download the article but you won’t be able to print it.

http://www.karting1.co.uk/jetting-karting.htm

[Author]

Posts