[tony zambos]

Welcome to the forum.
First, check your grounds. Then pull the carb and disassemble it. Take the needle valve out and clean the carb body thoroughly. Don’t get any cleaner on the needle valve. There is an internal fuel filter. Clean it out. Assemble the carb. Check for a float with fuel in it. Check the float heights. Last, be sure that the vent tube access the top of the carb has an opening in it.

[tony zambos]

Dave,
On the Wednesday before Memorial Day, I started to receive emails generated by new posts on the Forum. I know it would be useless to call Comcast to see if they’ve changed anything with my account. And you’re going to tell me that there haven’t been any changes to the site. That’s OK. I’ll caulk it up to either magic or sun spots and be happy. Cheers

[tony zambos]

Henry,
You could call TS Racing in Bushnell, Florida, since they are listed as a dealer for that clutch. They probably have the information you need.
If you’re not using this kart on a track, you can expect to generate more heat in the clutch because it’s spending more time slipping. Try lowering the engagement rpm to keep the clutch locked up more. Less slippage should lower the temp. How much? Couldn’t tell you. I’ve never checked the temperature of a clutch when it comes off the track. It’s hot and I respect that.
Good luck and enjoy the time with your kids.

[tony zambos]

I’ve never seen a kit for placing the radiator for a FR-125 on the left of the driver. For any racing organization running RMax rules, this would not be a legal configuration.

[tony zambos]

Bob,
First of all, glad your engine is running. But, you said the RPM wire was laying on the head. I’m assuming that’s the high voltage cable to the spark plug rather than the RPM sensor wire running to the tach. There shouldn’t be any leakage out of the cable.

[tony zambos]

Bob,
There are two lines to the carb, one is the fuel line and the second, which probably is a smaller diameter, is the pulse line running from the crankcase to the carb. Make sure it doesn’t have any cracks or breaks and is tie-wrapped at both ends. The pulse line operates the fuel pump in the carb by transmitting the changes in air pressure that occur in the crankcase.
If the plug was wet, you would expect that there wasn’t any spark. In your case, the plug is dry and I’m assuming you are not getting fuel into the cylinder. The best way to eliminate your carb is to borrow another one and try it on your engine. You also might want to remove one needle valve (H & L) and check if the tip of the valve has broken off. When was the last time you disassembled the carb and put a kit in it?

[tony zambos]

Take a look at the pulse line from the crankcase to the carb.

[tony zambos]

Bob,
One of your assumptions must be wrong. What happened between the last time it ran and now? First, double check to see if the needles are open on the carb, a quarter turn open for the high speed needle and 1 1/2 on the low. If the carb has been apart, make sure the diaphragms are in right and the metering needle is not stuck.
And is your starter turning the motor over at its normal speed?

[tony zambos]

adding to Gary’s post, Ital does has the bar and is listed in the parts manual as:

13 – ITL122 – 610mm REAR BUMPER ROD WITH GROOVES-ITALKART – $20.09

That covers the Supersonic V / Supersonic / Rapido, 100/125. Noticed the one from Comet is 550mm. The Ital is 610.

[tony zambos]

You could run without a tach or water temp, but. The timing goes away after a certain rpm but there is no limiter. Start with an axle gear that’s too small and add teeth rather than over gearing it and turn to too many rpm’s. An engine that’s too hot or cold is not going to make max horsepower.
If you feel comfortable without a tach and temp, go for it. How do you plan on jetting the carb?

P.S. There are going to be many used MyChron 4’s available.

[tony zambos]

Brian,
The normal failure would have been the braided wire braking off the motor brush and nothing happening. There would have been no sound, no smoke, no anything. So you’re going to have to look deeper. You didn’t if your motor was OK. Is it seized? After that, I’d first look for a Bendix that wouldn’t spin or the starter motor that wouldn’t turn. If you have a volt meter, check for resistance from the starter terminal to the case. I suppose there is a chance that the brush wire broke off and is touching the case. You’re going to have to open up the starter to find out.

[tony zambos]

Ric,
Sent you an email.

[tony zambos]

I kept the speed sensor after acquiring a GPS module with the thoughts I could see clutch slip and lost traction at the rear of the kart. But if there were any of those conditions, by the time I saw them late at night on a race day or the week after a race it was way too late. Will keep relying on the best sensor in the kart, the driver. Thanks for your comments.

P.S. and it will be one less thing to remove and put back on during an axle swap. :)

[tony zambos]

Photos of 74t Pfeifer Pulley

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/backlite/media/Pheifer%20Pulley/DSC_0458_zpslgwe64hn.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/backlite/Pheifer%20Pulley/DSC_0458_zpslgwe64hn.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/backlite/media/Pheifer%20Pulley/DSC_0461_zpssb6gcjee.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/backlite/Pheifer%20Pulley/DSC_0461_zpssb6gcjee.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/backlite/media/Pheifer%20Pulley/DSC_0463_zpsixwsdni5.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/backlite/Pheifer%20Pulley/DSC_0463_zpsixwsdni5.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/backlite/media/Pheifer%20Pulley/DSC_0464_zpsandr2tgk.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/backlite/Pheifer%20Pulley/DSC_0464_zpsandr2tgk.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/backlite/media/Pheifer%20Pulley/DSC_0467_zpsepnazeey.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/backlite/Pheifer%20Pulley/DSC_0467_zpsepnazeey.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[tony zambos]

EGT Photos

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/backlite/media/EGT%20SENSORS/DSC_0451_zpsv9a9ofph.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/backlite/EGT%20SENSORS/DSC_0451_zpsv9a9ofph.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/backlite/media/EGT%20SENSORS/DSC_0456_zpsdextaj3i.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/backlite/EGT%20SENSORS/DSC_0456_zpsdextaj3i.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/backlite/media/EGT%20SENSORS/DSC_0454_zps3etoczr4.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/backlite/EGT%20SENSORS/DSC_0454_zps3etoczr4.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[tony zambos]

The four EGT sensors are still available.

[tony zambos]

Jeff,
PM sent

[tony zambos]

Order one of each. Try them both on and return the one you don’t like. It will cost you a little extra but you’ll know which of the two fits you best.

[tony zambos]

There are many racers out there that don’t have a budget as large as the amount you say you’ve saved. We road raced a (that’s one) Rotax for several years without any failures. It always fired up and finished every race. Maintenance by a good shop probably helped. Can’t see why you claim they are so poorly made. We choose a Rotax because it was level playing field. Only had to buy one motor. It was more driver skill rather than who spent the most bucks on an engine. Had some very good racing and isn’t this why we race?

[tony zambos]

Certainly looks as if Ribtech did not renew its domain name. Call a large retailer like Comet Kart Sales (317-462-3413) for info on Ribtech info. My son tried a Tillett rib protector over the weekend. Worked good. https://www.tillett.co.uk/ribtec-rib-protectors.asp

[tony zambos]

+1 for Mike’s comment

[tony zambos]

Hi David,
I’m still no receiving email notifications for follow-up replies. If I’m the only one not getting them, that’s fine and I’m OK with that. But my paranoid side got to be wondering if my notifications were being redirected. There were no email notifications to my post today. I’ve double check my Comcast account and there are no restrictions on the mail I received, and the Junk & Spam folders are empty.
This just an FYI. I always have time to visit the EKN site at least once a day.

Take care,
tony z

[tony zambos]

Greg, David, Matt,

Thanks for the responses.

[tony zambos]

if that’s all it is, that’s great. Can’t see how an engine with a single piston ring wouldn’t leak and still run. Yes, we’ve melted a couple pistons so well into the bore that they probably had zero leak down.

Thanks Matt

[tony zambos]

Thanks Dave. That at least explains my visibility on the Forum. How if I could only find out why people want to drive over the front of my car as they change lanes.

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