[tony zambos]

Welcome to the community.
Tell us where you’re at and what kind of karting you’re interested in.

[tony zambos]

You’re welcome.

A couple of tips. First, never let the battery voltage in your M4 drop below 7.0 volts.  To check, turn the gauge on and after the startup displays finish, press the ON button again.

Second, you’ll get good information from the Forum on Aim equipment, but better yet, use AIM’s support. Depending on how busy they are, it might take a couple of days for a response.  They are excellent.

http://aim-sportline.com/

 

[tony zambos]

For a Mychron4, it will be obvious if you have or haven’t GPS.  While the Mychron5 has built in GPS, the Mychron4 uses a separate, external module.  https://cometkartsales.com/Mychron-4-GPS-System.html

FYI – I’m not a driver, but do not believe you will have enough time to study your gauge on a sprint track.  Learn to use Race Studio’s split reports to see gains and losses through certain parts of the track.

There are two ways to get lap details.  One is with the use of a GPS module and the second is with the use of an e-Box. The e-Box has accelerometers that are used to plot a track map but the e-Box is the older method of track mapping.  The use of GPS is more common today.

If you haven’t watched the AIM videos, click here for the link.

I am just mentioning this. I have both an e-Box and GPS05 module with a hub.  PM me if you’re interested.

[tony zambos]

From a guy who’s never used this function:

Start with your GPS unit attached to the M4.  Then, to enable Predictive Lap select MENU > CONFIGURATION (Wrench symbol) > SYSTEM SETUP (M4 gauge symbol). You will have three options to toggle thru: disabled/Diff Mode/Absolute.

[tony zambos]

IMO – The most accurate sensor for recording lap times is your transponder.  You should be able to fit a magnetic or RF sensor to the M5 for lap times.  But the all the AiM lap time sensors have their faults. Use the GPS on the M5 and don’t be concerned about the other lap sensors.  I was a GPS skeptic, not any more.

 

[tony zambos]

If you don’t have the chassis manual, here is the link.

Adult Setup Guide

[tony zambos]

From Comet Kart Sales, https://cometkartsales.com/OTK-Front-Wheel-Hub/.

There’s two bearings and a sleeve between them.  Here’s a video from Compkart.  The issue with this video is he doesn’t show how he got the first bearing out.  http://kart360.com/features/pro-tip-front-bearing-assembly

 

[tony zambos]

Why do you believe that 160 is too high?  There maybe nothing wrong with your engine.  If there are other Leopards at your track, ask them. We didn’t run a probe in the head of a Leopard but did have one on a Rotax.  150 to the high 160’s were acceptable water temps.  Do not throwing parts at your engine until you’re sure there’s a problem.  A spare pump, belts and gears are good to have as spares.  Unless the gears are severely worn on their sides or the teeth are misshaped, there’s no reason to replace them.  If they are worn, replace them and the chain.  Another good spare for a Leopard would be clutch.

How are you purging the air from the cooling system?  Are you removing the temp sensor and spinning the rear wheels until water comes out?  We used to run the engine on the stand until it started to warm up.  Then would tip the left side of the kart up so the radiator was higher than the engine.  Make sure the pump was turning, set it back down and fill the rad up to the top.  No need to leave room for expansion. The radiator cap is suppose to hold pressure and allow some water to escape if the pressure builds to high. Have a catch can attached to cap.

If the rear width is not at the max allowable, move the hubs out a quarter inch to free the kart up.

See you PM.

[tony zambos]

As a reference, our pre-09 ran a 124F water temp on a 75 degree day during a road race.  But, we did not have a sensor in the head.  We had it in the hose from the head.  Would expect a sensor in the head to read higher. How much higher I don’t know.

Try putting the sensor in boiling water to test the gauge’s accuracy. Check the radiator cap to see if it’s holding pressure.  I an not fan of the type of pump belts you’re using and would try a conventional belt. If you do go that route, put on extra belts and tie wrap the spares to the center bearing support.  And I’m assuming you are purging the air out of the system before you hit the track.

Another cause could be your chassis set up.  If the chassis is too bound up, that will cause the engine to work harder, causing more heat.  Look at the gear alignment.

Let us know what kind of RPM’s you’re turning. There should be someone on the Forum that’s run with a head temp.  And it might be time to call your local kart shop.

[tony zambos]

I’ve got a 5 gallon tank from Sears that will hold 135 psi.  At a 110 psi, you should be able to mount a tire as long as it seals up against the rim the first try.

[tony zambos]

+ 1

 

[tony zambos]

working

 

[tony zambos]

David,
I’m on the road and had the problem was with the desktop back home. The hard drive in the laptop I brought with me has crashed as well as my Garmin. Hopefully my phone will hang in there til the of the trip.
Thanks for asking.

[tony zambos]

David,
It must be my clunky Windows pc. My phone works OK. thanks

[tony zambos]

Try YouTube. Some karters will include data overlays.

Example:

[tony zambos]

Mike,
You might be going about this all wrong. The seat location needs to be set first to give the kart the proper weight distribution, about 40/60. Check with your chassis manufacturer for recommended seat location.
Next, many chassis manufacturers offer different length as steering shafts. Perhaps a longer one would work for you. There are also wedges available that fit between the steering wheel and its hub. They’ll give you an additional 5,10 or 15 degrees downward tilt to the steering wheel.

[tony zambos]

Ask the seller to drive the kart with your go-pro to see if the issues were you or the kart.
Yes, you driving at partial throttle could be the cause. A list of possible causes would be: fuel pump, external fuel filter, fuel filter in the carb, carb floats, carb jetting, RAVE valve stuck open, low fuel level, poor fuel pick up, exhaust packing clogged, weak battery, fouled spark plug. That list is in no particular order of importance or likelihood.
There used to be a good bit of literature on the web on Rotax FR125 engines. Read as much as you can.

[tony zambos]

PM sent

[tony zambos]

I would be hesitant to buy any 2-cycle engine that may have been sprayed internal with brake cleaner. Bogging did occur with older motors if throttle was applied too quickly.
Guessing that it stopped either do to a weak battery or the fuel pump needs rebuilding. The rebuild kit is cheap.

If everyone near you are racing motors that have been upgraded to an EVO, you will be at a disadvantage. Check first. Also find out how long ago the motor has been serviced.

[tony zambos]

+1 on Freddy’s comment. The suit needs to be abrasion resistant. A neck brace, very good idea. Rib protection is a must a long with a properly fitting seat. After a trip to the track, think about knee pads. And don’t go super cheap on a helmet.

[tony zambos]

I’ve heard of people having good luck buying batteries from a battery store. I haven’t. Recommend purchasing from Comet.

[tony zambos]

To get started, basic hand tools, i.e. a socket set, screw drivers, pliers, dead blow hammer, crescent wrench, torque wrench, safety wire tool & wire, air pressure gauge, tape measure, tie-wraps, duct tape. For liquid products, 409, WD40, TriFlow and the oil of choice for your engine.

You’ll need the tire bead breaker and also tools to mount and unmount the tires from their rims plus a strap to go around the tire while during inflation.

An air compressor is good. How do yon intend to power it at the track? For many years I beaded tires up at a local gas station and brought a 5 gallon air tank with to the track.

You could use a piece of plywood, clamped to the chassis to mount a seat.

You’ll need alignment tools for the front end. Laser alignment tools would be preferred but you can make do with a couple of alignment plates that mount to the front hubs and a tape measure.

The engine and axle gears need to be aligned. Again, a laser tool is nice, but a steal ruler works.

If you’re using a clutch, tools to install, remove and service it.

That should get you through the first weekend. Oh! throw in paper towels/rags and hand cleaner.

[tony zambos]

Find a local kart shop that supports the club or series that you’re interested in. Then concentrate on driving skills, chassis setups and having fun.

[tony zambos]

updated information

[tony zambos]

It’s good that you’re asking around. The more you ask, the more questions you’ll have. Can’t comment on either shop, but have purchased parts from Fastech and they have been very good to me. But do go the shops and ask questions. Ask what tracks or series they support. Which ever shop you choose, buy you whole package from one shop. They’ll be much more inclined to offer support.

As for being a newbie, I can’t recommend the Rotax. It’s a good and reliable engine. Parts are on the expensive side. No matter what engine you pick, You will have routine maintenance. If you have a strong Yamaha class in the area, I’d suggest the Kt100. But there is a benefit of the Rotax as it does have an on board starter. I have a Rotax that was a perfectly fine motor until the EVO mods came out. Don’t think I’ll ever get rid of it. A Yamaha with a can is reliable and less expensive to maintain. There is a lot you’ll have to learn about chassis setups. Once you’ve learned to drive smoothly, with fast and consistent lap times, then upgrade you engine

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