[tony zambos]

Batteries can seem good and not be. If you have a battery store near you, find out if they can load test your battery. Another tet would be to charge the battery, remove the charger and check the voltage. Wait a day or two and check the voltage again. Should be at least 12.5v.
Check the teeth on the ring gear. Pull the bendix off and check that it’s not gummy or binding up in any way.

[tony zambos]

Paul,
Your post ought to be the best way to find out about swap meets in your area. Hopefully someone will post up if they know of one. Checking the SERIES/CLUB/EVENT form, or doing a search on the forum using a key word of SWAP or MEET are other ways. If you knew an organization that did swap meets, see if they have a facebook posting.
I’m near Chicago. Went to springfield last weekend and headed to Milwaukee this weekend. Swap meets near Chicago have dried up.

[tony zambos]

thanks Bill

[tony zambos]

A. Recommend MS 93.
B. Contact Nick Weil, located in Orlando
C. http://eknclassic.com/viewtopic.php?t=117487&highlight=octane

[tony zambos]

Mark,
Can’t help you with your specific situation, but a couple of suggestions.
* Be sure the chassis is not tweaked before you do anything.
* Check the scales read the same with a given weight.
* Insure that your tires have the same diameter from side to side.
* Lock down the steering shaft and adjust the toe in/out to zero. Leave the shaft locked down during the entire test.
* Make sure the king-pins are not bent.
* The surface for the scales has to be flat and level.
*Contact the club or the track promoter and ask if they can put you in touch with someone that has experience in your class.

Always weigh in at a track sometime during practice. It’s common that scales will vary from track to track and sometimes from weekend to weekend.

Hopefully a knowable person can give you some better advice.

[tony zambos]

When you need to. I know that’s vague but no one out here can really tell you. But here is a starting point. First, check for pad wear. If the pads are worn too much or worn unevenly, replace them. Uneven wear indicates a problem between the caliper and pads. Then squeeze the brake pedal against the front nerf bar. The pedal should not touch the nerf and should not creep forward as you maintain pressure. Now bleed the brakes and test the pedal travel again. Use ONLY the brake fluid approved for your brake system. When the pedal starts to travel more or the pedal does not seen as firm, bleed again.
We come from road racing a Sn Rotax and I bleed ours before every race weekend and checked the pedal travel several times during the weekend.
Be safe and have fun.

[tony zambos]

Theses two posts from the EKN Classic site might help.

http://eknclassic.com/viewtopic.php?t=78266&highlight=neutral

http://eknclassic.com/viewtopic.php?t=76265&highlight=neutral

[tony zambos]

Mark,
adjust the pedal stop to where your driver is comforable with it fully depressed and adjust the throttle cable until the carb is completely open. To be honest, I’ve never measured the amount of travel. Many pedals have a couple of positions for the cable and you can used them to tune the rate the carb opens. When there is no pressure on the pedal, there should some slack in the cable. Be more concerned about the brake pedal than the gas. Your driver will find a way to get the gas pedal all the way down. Be sure the driver can stop the kart. Use a return spring on the gas pedal.

[tony zambos]

+1 for an air leak

[tony zambos]

Len,
With a small needle nose pliers, grab the ring, twist and pull the clip out. To remove the pin without damaging the rod, you might need a puller similar to the one by LAD Specialities, http://www.ladspecialties.com/zoom/100-00034.html.

[tony zambos]

Tyler,
Start with a clean slate with fresh gas and oil, new fuel filter and rebuilding the carb. P1 has a good video on the carb, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpkK2v3jI74. Take note not to block the carb pulse port between the crankcase and carb by installing the carb gasket upside down.
P1 also has a video on a starter rebuild, http://kart360.com/features/kart-360-tech-tip-presented-by-p1-engines. This is something that you’ll have to do on a routine basis. Learn how and keep a spare set of brushes with you.

[tony zambos]

I wouldn’t with a folding stand. Too many points of failure, the kart coming losse from the stand or the stand coming loose from the trailer.

[tony zambos]

Vince,
Use four tie-downs, pictured below, one in front and one behind each rear tire with a ratching strap over the tires

http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/backlite/D-RingTie-down_zps9f4aedfd.jpg

[tony zambos]

Matt,

Check with UPS first. If this is a sissor type stand, secure it in the folded position with tie wraps and cover it with shrink wrap.

[tony zambos]

Len,
What are you trying to accomplish? If you just wanted to removed the piston from the rod, splitting the case wasn’t neccassary. Pull the clips that hold the wrist pin in and push out the pin. If you’re replacing the rod, the crank has to come apart. For help on line, GIF is going to be your best resource. If you need a shop to help you out, LAD Specialties is not that far of a drive.

[tony zambos]

Try Dave Larson of TAG Shipping Solutions.
Phone: 847-395-1124
Email: gempro001@aol.com
Web site: http://www.tagshippingsolutions.com

[tony zambos]

Danny,
I looked up the m2 pc loader cable and it appears that it transmits via an infrared signal. Don’t think you’re going to find many pc’s with an infrared port, but good luck finding the cable. You might want to try the obvious and contact AIM. Their service is always great. Consider looking for a newer used gauge, an M3 or M4. Don’t think that AIM’s Race Studio supports an M2 and you’ll really want to have and use Race Studio, whiich is free.

[tony zambos]

If you’re going to box and ship your engines, the whole country is available to you. Contact LAD Specialties for a builder in the Midwest. You might have to wait until after Daytona for a response.

L.A.D. Specialties Inc.
9010 South Beloit, Unit F
Bridgeview, IL 60455
708-430-1588.
http://www.ladspec.com/

[tony zambos]

Jim,
+1 for the k-racer site working. Try a Google search and clic on the link.

[tony zambos]

Just have the sticky say “Ask TJ”

[tony zambos]

Matt,
I’m assuming that you have tried and the rubber insert does not move.
If it doesn’t, try finding a toggle bolt that will fit thru hole left by the bolt. Possibility a 1/8″ and a bolt long enough to get the toggle past the rubber insert. Put a fender washer on the bolt, push the toggle all the way past rubber, then tighten the bolt to pull the rubber. A little WD40 to start with, probably would help.

[tony zambos]

Sebastian,
The someone else is right. The GPS05 module connects to a powered data hub that is sold with the GPS module. The data hub then connects to the M4.
http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/backlite/media/schema_di_collegamento_mychron4_zps47522373.gif.html
http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n546/backlite/schema_di_collegamento_mychron4_zps47522373.gif
Not quite sure what you’re looking for here. The M3/Gold does have a lateral accelerometer. To get a lateral accelerometer on an M4 you would need to purchase an E-Box. IMO, if you’re getting the GPS module, getting an E-Box to go with it is not necessary. You should more than enough data from the GPS.

When viewing your M3/Gold in Race Studio, enable LatAcc under MEASURES table on the Measures Graph. With a GPS module, enable the GPS_LatAcc measurement.

Hope this helps a bit

[tony zambos]

Matt,
that hose is a breather/overflow for the bowl or the carb. Pull the carb apart and clean it as best as you possible can. If you acces to a sonic clean, tht would be your best solution for cleaning the carb. Do not get cleaner on the neddle jet. Pull it out before you start cleaning. The neddle valve could be sticking on its seat or one of the floats has failed and fuel is leaking into it. Or it could be that it’s time for a new neddle jet.
Where did you move from and how big of a main jet to you have in?

[tony zambos]

Nick,
To be safe, drain out what you have in the tank and replace with your new mixture. What you drain out will run in your lawn mower. More than likely the different oils will mix properly, but I wouldn’t tell you to do that. What will be affected is the jetting if the two fuels have different gas and oil ratios. If you add your new mixture to the remaining fuel and then pour that mixture into a partially filled tank, the oil/gas ratio is going to be constantly changing. It’s not going to be a large change, but still a change. You’ll want to keep your jetting changes based on just the temperature and barometric changes during the day.

[tony zambos]

Well this is probably a stupid idea. Loosen the curled not on the end, then unscrew the barrel. Guessing that there is something similar to a collet, similar to ones used on old Dremel tools, inside the barrel and once the tension is released, the cable should come out.

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