[tony zambos]

Bob,
to help with your battery research, this the link to the Coleman site. http://www.colemanstarters.com/.

The Coleman battery that is sitting on my bench that came out of a mini-starter measures 5 7/8 (w) x 3 5/16 (D) x 4 1/4 (H). Not sure if the older type starters took a larger battery.

[tony zambos]

Dave,
When I click on the link above to the EKN EVENT PAGE, it brings me back to the same thread.

[tony zambos]

As two famous radio show hosts would preface some of their answers by claiming the answer was arrived at without the encumbrance of the thought process, I too will apply that statement to my answer.

The short answer is no. The aerodynamics of an open wheel vehicle provides additional down force, trying to overcome the car’s forward inertia that is trying to keep the car going straight. The heavier a kart is, the more forward inertia it has as it tries to turn.

And don’t drive like my brother.

[tony zambos]

Bob,
I’d take a rag with WD40 and wipe down the chassis. If there is a gauge on the kart, bring just the display module indoors, along with the tires and rims if you have the space. Leave the brakes for the spring so long as the resevoir has fluid. Before you bleed them in the spring, you’ll need to find out which type of brake fluid your brake system takes plus purchasing a breeder tool which in no more the an elevated tank. Bleeding the brakes will no be a big deal, but if you’re buying a used kart and don’t have its history, consider a complete brake job. Pull the pads to check for uneven wear or excessive wear. Then think about removing the pistons from the caliper and master cylinder, checking the pistons and their bores for damage. And since you’ve gotten this far, replace all the seals. Stopping is more important than going.
As for the Yamaha, a few drops of Mystery Oil in the spark plug hole and put the plug back in. I bing my engines inside for the winter but that’s me. Your engine should fine in the garage.
Drain the fuel in the tank and put it in your weed wacker or snow blower.

[tony zambos]

Ed,
Contact Dave Larson. He can be reached at 847-395-1124, gempro001@aol.com or http://www.tagshippingsolutions.com.

[tony zambos]

Thank you Bill and Paolo

[tony zambos]

AJ,
That’s a shame.

[tony zambos]

Never changed one. Ran the same engines for many years. Use a TCI hold down to prevent the tabs on the TCI from breaking and to maintain a good good ground. Problem free.

[tony zambos]

Ric,
Contact the association that you race with and ask how they measure. I have two Leapard manuals, one shows the measurement from the gasket side of the flange and another showing the same measurement from the pipe side of the flange. And there are posts on EKN to support both sides of the argument.

[tony zambos]

Good news. Thanks for the update.

[tony zambos]

That’s not Jet Tech that I knew. It took them a few days to get the security code back me but I wasn’t pressed for time.

[tony zambos]

It’s the largest carb gasket I’ve ever seen, just can’t figure out which card.

[tony zambos]

If you have a source of compressed air, blow all the loose stuff off the kart. Stray it down with WD-40, then wiipe the kart down with 409, Simple Green or similar cleaner.

[tony zambos]

Mike,

What operating system are you running, is it up to date and what kind of error are you getting?

Jet Tech did have their email system hacked earlier this year. The web site has a Skype button to contact them. That would be an inexpensive way to contact them. And just a reminder that they are at least five hours ahead of us. Good luck.

[tony zambos]

Pip,
That piece of fuel line at the inlet of the throttle cable is nothing. If you want to replace it with the rubber boot that comes with a motor, go right ahead. It is not a source of an air leak. If your throttle cable is uncoiling or worn, replace it. But it too is not a source for an air leak or the cause of a bog, There should be some slack in the throttle cable.

You have a racing engine. It’s not going to idle. Never going to beat any one on the track by idling.

If you have an unsealed motor, no log book and know idea of how many hours its ran, send it to a shop for a full rebuild whether you’re just going to just practiceor race it. If it blows up, it’s going to be more expenssive than a rebuild. Keep track of run time when it gets back.

[tony zambos]

Pip,
Forgot to ask what weight floats you’re using as float weight makes a difference in jetting.

[tony zambos]

Pip,
You might want to listen to the Thai mechanics. That Rotax jetting chart will give you a jet that is very safe to use, but not very accurate for jetting a competitive engine. If you believe that your 158 jet is too lean, take the kart out to a track and after running a couple of laps, pull the choke lever up. If the engine runs better, you had too small of a jet in. If it gets worse, you were too rich to begin with and should go to smaller jet. You can also run the kart on the track and come into the pits running as close to full throttle as possible and shut the engine off. Check how wet the spark is and how dark the exhaust pipe is.

Your post seems to indicate your throttle is sticking open. Is slid not coming down when you take your foot of the accelerator? If the carb is not closing, that’s another problem that is a safety issue.

You mentioned that you clean the carb and that it has a 158 jet in it. Did you remove all the jets and atomizer tubes and inspect them for blockage? Besides the 158 main jet, what is the size of the other jets and atomizers and what are you float heights?

John Savage has an article on the Rotax carb and if you haven’t read it, do so. http://www.karting1.co.uk/new-ThePreparation&JettingoftheRotaxCarb.pdf

[tony zambos]

Robert,

Any update?

[tony zambos]

Tom,
I see no reason to ban it. It should be transparent to the driver and cause no driver distractions. If it’s a good idea, it will succeed. Popularity should drive down the price. If not, it will die away on its own. Personally, I can see much need for it. The best data collection device in a kart is the driver and you’ll have to wait until he/she hits the pits. About the only thing I can think that could be a benefit is the pc will know if you missed the gearing and the crew could have the new gear in hand when the kart comes off the track. But I’d rather be watching the race rather than farting around with a pc.

[tony zambos]

Robert,
If the piston is traveling up and down when you turn the rear wheels, you do have some sort of clutch failure or the clutch is out of adjustment. Before you do anything, do you have the L&T tools to remove and service the clutch? The starting point with clutch slip should be around 6k and adjust towards a higher engagement RPM. Never start at 11K and turn to work your way downwards. All you’ll have that way is smoke. You should end up between 7.2 and 8.5k.
For the clutch not turning freely, if this is a new clutch, there is the possibility that the adjustment screws are way off. If not a new clutch, disassemble the clutch and carefully measure everything as specified in the manual. Have found that the dog bones do wear and break. If you have a kart shop in your area, ask if they would help.
As for the starter nut, check how far in the clutch goes on the crank shaft with and without the key in the shaft. Your key could be too large and not allowing the clutch to fit tightly on the shaft.
Also, L&T has a phone and fax numbers plus email. I’d give them a call.
Good Luck

[tony zambos]

Joe,

you can’t say that you have the gears aligned if you alxe moves 0.125 inches. I’d would not have my gears any more than 0.050″ out of alignment. Not having a view of your gears and chain, maybe replacing the chain and gears plus the bearings is called for. You have at least damaged the rear gear and maybe the drive gear. The chain also can strech and your’s maybe have been stretched to one side as well. Start by removing the play in the axle and see what happens. You may wind up replacing the gears and chain after that.

[tony zambos]

Walt,
We did road race with DEM’s. We had 4.50×10’s on the front and 7.10×11’s on the rear. The fronts were good but the rears wore down fast. We were not the only kart this happened to. Back when there were DCM’s, they would last us for a three day weekend. We ate up a set of DEM’s in a day.
I have a set of unused DEM rears if you’re interested.

[tony zambos]

Joe,
I have not owned a CRG, but doubt that bearing cassettes, the aluminum blocks that hold the bearings in place, would be worn on a 2013 chassis. The bearing should fit tightly in the cassette. The bearing should not move in the cassette. The only side-to-side movement should be the inside race that goes around the axle. You might have to use a very fine sand paper to clean up the inside of the cassette before installing the new bearing. You should be able to replace the bearings many times without thinking about replacing the cassettes. Think I’ve put a dozen bearings into my current cassettes without a problem.

If the bearing does move within the cassette, there is a possibility that someone not knowing how a bearing goes into a cassette could have damaged it or you have the wrong size bearing.

[tony zambos]

Joe,
Replace both axle bearings. An eighth of an inch in play is about the thickness of a gear tooth. Never measured the play in a new bearing but assume it would be only a thousandth or two of an inch.

[tony zambos]

Scott,
I’ve never had a kid kart to work on kid kart, but with that said, you could be running too long of a chain. A shorter chain would move the engine back and the chain away from the chassis.
Also, is it possible the run a small gear on the engine? With the smaller gear on the engine, the rear gear could be reduced in size and move the chain away from the chassis, but you would still have to resize the chain as well.
Have seen nylon chain guides for a chain, but a quick look this morning did not result in finding any.

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