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Ted HamiltonParticipant
$200 shipped….
…otherwise I’ll sit on ’em. :)
Thanks for looking… ~Ted
Ted HamiltonParticipantOr shoot me a reasonable offer…
Ted HamiltonParticipantI thought Haddock was the “American” in I.A.M.E.? Arrangements change with the times, but it’s just good business and courtesy to notify long time business partners before yanking the carpet out from under them… I’m not impressed, and will have to seriously consider whether to use IAME products in the future.
Ted HamiltonParticipantWhere are you locatd? Parolin still available? Thanks… ~ted
February 26, 2014 at 9:56 pm in reply to: SOLD ** Righetti Ridolfi Extreme Chassis with KT-100 or Leopard #22805Ted HamiltonParticipantSale pending…
Ted HamiltonParticipantRobert — an additional market for this might be the upper end r/c pylon racers, etc. who would benefit by running right on the edge…And have no other way to change things “on the fly….” hehe
February 24, 2014 at 9:16 pm in reply to: SOLD ** Righetti Ridolfi Extreme Chassis with KT-100 or Leopard #22667Ted HamiltonParticipantCan deliver to Go Pro Motorplex or within Winston-Salem area… I’ll be racing whichever motor doesn’t sell — good pieces here!
Ted HamiltonParticipantCool. I agree that there’s a place for this. But for my money, I’d rather turn the existing gauge off and spend a couple practice days learning to tune by ear/feel….It’s very hard to top the human brain for signal processing and analysis.
Ted HamiltonParticipantI’ve also found that if you’re very careful, you can rethread the pinch bolts in from the back and tighten them down onto a washer slid into the groove and that levers the split open without dinging it with a screwdriver…. Be careful not to really crank down or bugger up the threads, though.
Ted HamiltonParticipantTed HamiltonParticipantI drop a line to Chris Reinhardt…
Ted HamiltonParticipantMake offer…
Ted HamiltonParticipant^^ do the metric to english conversion and go see what your local O’Reilly’s has….this worked for VEN99 because they’re cup seals…if you have the new square O ring seals, you’re probably boned. Sorry! I have since sold the kart these were on, so I have the calipers just sitting here. Plus about 12 brake pads, mostly new. Make offer if interested. They probably need a light touch with reamer from machine shop to restore round and smooth and then the cup seals should work again…
~ted
Ted HamiltonParticipantI just bought a kart with the same syndrome, only my previous owner used XL seat so it’s a little more understandable. Anyhow, I’ll be fabricating a replacement and having it welded to the stubs that remain (they’re about 1″ long, so enough to use.) Seems if the Italians have done the R&D to know where to place ’em, I’m not going to 2nd guess ’em. That said, I’m guessing that it would be hard to really tell the difference provided that same degree of flex and stability was attained with the new setup. Leverage point would be different, but it may be simpler to just leave the revised setup… Good luck either way! Mine’s an ’05 Extreme Chassis by Righetti Ridolfi and I’m hoping I can find pics of the right side strut so I can copy it. My guess is that it’s like the left strut, but we’ll see.
February 14, 2014 at 5:50 pm in reply to: What form of engine did you begin your karting career with? #22046Ted HamiltonParticipantMy first race vehicle was a Microd, like a full-bodied kart only with a wood frame. We used Tecumseh H35 engines, 3.5 hp with left rear driven only. That was in 1988. Switch to a 6hp 4 years later, and my final year was in what amounted to a quarter-midget with a 5hp Briggs similar to WKA specs.
Good training ground for being smooth and total momentum game.My first kart was practicing with a friends’ 28mm Swiss Hutless with a 100cc Formula A spec Parilla TT36 Revenge. Direct-drive with an IBEA slide carby and breadbox sides only. Violent acceleration in every direction. Everything since has been a letdown except my foray into club ICA with BeaverRun using a 100cc water-cooled Haase Titan engine. Of course running at 330# instead of the more bulky 375# required for TaG may have something to do with the lack of feel for TaG, and the clutch changes things too…
For a newb, any 4 cycle seems like a good choice. Except for maybe a Biland. :)
Ted HamiltonParticipantBrian — now that I’ve sold it, that would be the limiting factor. :) I’m going to be running TaG with a different powerplant and/or KT-100. GoPro Motorplex has a bunch of NASCAR drivers and/or their progeny and FWT racers and generally isn’t just a bunch of club racers having competitive fun. I was advised that the KT-100 class is more along those lines, though slower, of course. And I’m getting a push-button Leopard on an Extreme chassis for $700, so I’ll do TaG once that’s refreshed. Cheers,
~TedTed HamiltonParticipantSOLD. Thanks, Simon!
Ted HamiltonParticipantWith the kart on a stand I pull the fuel line from the carb while pinching it and let it self-siphon into a gas tank on the shelf on the kart stand… Usually drains to very little left in the tank…I usually don’t dump that, but it’s not hard to pull the tank and dump that residual amount out if needed.
Ted HamiltonParticipantIs the KT-100SEC legal to run in the WKA KT class?
Ted HamiltonParticipantSimon — sent you an email to the address you listed. Still available at the moment. Regards, ~Ted
Ted HamiltonParticipantWalt, I’m not saying it’s “ideal”, I was just curious… I race unlimited dirt oval, so you see all kinds of oddball combos…and modifications. This Rotax may become a mod for my dirt kart if I get good info here, or I’ll update it to current RMax specs. I was simply curious. :)
Ted HamiltonParticipantIf this is the SR-Y pipe, Ill take it…
Ted HamiltonParticipant



Ted HamiltonParticipantWhy not get the Burris 4-cycle jackshaft and run the sprocket outboard like the chassis expects? :) BMI and Buller also make other 2-cycle jackshafts that will work with the proper adapter plate for the engine….Also makes chain and 1 piece gear changes easier. Hope that helps… Regards,
Ted
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