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Viewing 25 posts - 701 through 725 (of 788 total)
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  • in reply to: 4mm difference in left & right camber #18549
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Did you try to see if the stub axle is bent? Did you mount both gauges on something to see if the gauge is off? When you tighten the king pins the tires should be on the floor with your foot on the belly pan or your alignment will go out first time you clip a curb.

    Gif

    in reply to: iKart: MADE IN USA! #18419
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Do they have an extended front porch option?

    Gif

    in reply to: HPV-KPV Engine Rules #18404
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Have you tried contacting your local race director?

    Gif

    in reply to: HELP – uneven brake pad wear – Shims?? #18388
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    [quote quote=18265]So Walt, should the grease be applied between the piston and the back of the pad?[/quote]

    No, you coat the inside of the cylinders with a thin film so the seals side easier.

    Gif

    in reply to: Best seat for bigger guys #18329
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    I would like to see who these seats do fit. Never found one that fit me everywhere.

    in reply to: Clone clutch ??? #18253
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Hilliard Flame is pretty much one of the best shoe/drum clutches. A disk clutch would run a little cooler and be less maint. Get a Horstman X5-D2 if you’ve got the bread. Although, are you sure about that rule book. I thought clones had to have drum clutches.

    Gif

    in reply to: HELP – uneven brake pad wear – Shims?? #18252
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    They have special brake grease you can get at most auto parts stores. If you take it apart to clean it use the grease and it will help.

    Gif

    in reply to: Kart Chassis Brand Selection-newbie #18251
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    I’ve cut and re-welded many right side seat struts to optimize the left right balance on the scales. It depends on the engine package, your body weight ect but, don’t be afraid to cut and move things around if necessary just keep your welds aircraft quality.

    Gif

    in reply to: New to Kid Karting – Comer 50 to LO206 Conversion Questions #18180
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    The mount tilts the engine up in the back for clearance on the axle bearings ect.

    The Comer is pretty much gas and go. No valves to adjust or oil to change. I’d at least wait to see what your club is doing next year before you jump into another engine package. I’ve got quite a few engines in my basement I can’t race anywhere and have almost no resale value.

    If you get the 4 stroke I’d check the torque on the rod bolts and get a good aftermarket side cover gasket before you run it.

    here’s a link you might like http://karting.4cycle.com/forumdisplay.php?9-Briggs-OHV

    Gif

    in reply to: New to Kid Karting – Comer 50 to LO206 Conversion Questions #18156
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    I hope it fits, you might need a fancy off set mount. You’re fighting the clutch V seat strut and blower housing V tire.

    You’ll have to get accessories that will add to the cost. 12 degree mount, maxotorque clutch, #35 chain and gears, throttle plate, fuel pump, floor mounted tank, header, filter cup, air filter, chain guard, cheater cam shaft. I’m sure I’m forgetting something. You’ll have to pull the axle off. Make sure you have a keyway for the left hand drive.

    If the kart’s in running condition I’d just run it like that until the class picks up.

    Gif

    in reply to: Question for December #18146
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    That’s it, it goes so long between maint they don’t want the carbon build up. You can run more oil if you want, I ran 32:1 for the short time I had mine.

    Gif

    in reply to: Best seat for bigger guys #18085
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Deepseat all the way.

    Gif

    in reply to: Jackshaft considerations for reeds #17987
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    What you do is gear down the jackshaft and run a 4 stroke type clutch mounted to the jack shaft. Get with the dirt dogs over at bob’s 4 cycle.

    Gif

    in reply to: KT100 SA Blueprint #17845
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Got enough gaskets to set the exhaust timing at 1.155″ with the WKA tool then checked the intake timing. Had to cut .065″ off the skirt to get .775″, again using the WKA tech tool. Here I’m cutting a .030″ chamfer at 45 degrees on the skirt with brass shims on the jaws to keep from scratching the piston.

    [URL=http://s889.photobucket.com/user/giffy6/media/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/pistonskirt.jpg.html][IMG]http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/giffy6/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/pistonskirt.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

    Putting the wrist pin clips in with my (Snap On) duck bill pliers. Here’s the grip you want so the clip doesn’t fold back. the open end goes at 12 O’clock.

    [URL=http://s889.photobucket.com/user/giffy6/media/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/clipgrip.jpg.html][IMG]http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/giffy6/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/clipgrip.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

    On the first clip don’t let the open end of the clip go past the groove when you first push it in. Hold the wrist pin in place from the other side.

    Next push the clip in the hole at a steep angle. Once it’s in bring the nose of the pliers as close to the piston as possible. Then put your left thumb nail hard on the clip as you release the pliers (not in pics, had to hold the camera).

    [URL=http://s889.photobucket.com/user/giffy6/media/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/clipinstall.jpg.html][IMG]http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/giffy6/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/clipinstall.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

    Before your thumbnail gives out push the bottom of the clip into the hole with the nose of the pliers. Then push the clip the rest of the way into the groove.

    [URL=http://s889.photobucket.com/user/giffy6/media/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/clipinstall2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/giffy6/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/clipinstall2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

    I inspect it with a strong light and 5x jewelers loupe.

    I usually use IAME clips because, they are slightly thicker than oem Yamaha. On this piston they wouldn’t fit because, the wrist pin was chamfered on the ends and fit so perfectly to the clips it came with there was no side to side movement after both clips were installed. Nice attention to detail from Burris.

    Gif

    in reply to: Any reviews on FRIXA Ven05 disc and pads ? #17788
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Why can’t you use the frixa rotor with crg pads?

    Gif

    in reply to: CRG – Adjusting Rear Ride Height #17633
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Sometimes the frame can be bowed in the middle. Should be flat across the bottom. The seat should have 1″ ground clearance min. If it’s scraping when you cut the corner they all do that.

    Gif

    in reply to: KT100 SA Blueprint #17618
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Got the crank and bottom end together. Pretty standard stuff really. One mod I do on all my engines is to cut the shoulder on the pto back .050″ to give room for the chain on a 10th 219 gear and also allows a nice thick spacer. From shoulder to end of pto is 2-1/8″ now.

    LOL, look at that big ‘ol piston.

    [URL=http://s889.photobucket.com/user/giffy6/media/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/ptomeasure.jpg.html][IMG]http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/giffy6/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/ptomeasure.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

    I left a little more end play on the rod and crank this time. .032 on the rod and .014″ on the crank.
    The main bearing pockets weren’t that deep on this one so, I had to use a few split line gaskets to get those numbers. If not the rod side play would be too tight to oil the big end. In fact, looking at the rod, I think that’s why this engine blew up.

    [URL=http://s889.photobucket.com/user/giffy6/media/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/bentrod.jpg.html][IMG]http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/giffy6/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/bentrod.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

    Checking the timing with a .010″ gasket the exhaust opens .035″ too late so I’ve got some head scratching to do but will probably just use 4 aluminum shims. Dang, this engine needs allot of gaskets.

    [URL=http://s889.photobucket.com/user/giffy6/media/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/timingcheck.jpg.html][IMG]http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/giffy6/KT100%20SA%20blueprint/timingcheck.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

    Gif

    in reply to: Custom Suits: K1 or ONE Race Gear? #17485
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    The question you have to ask yourself is which one would you rather go skidding down the track with.

    Gif

    in reply to: KT Sportsman – can 7548 vs. RLV 7448 pipe #16782
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    [quote quote=16766]pipe is 1 sec faster per 25 sec laps. Looks to be no comparison. Guess I’ll be buying a soup can. Drat. I prefer pipes. Oh well….now some else searching will know, I guess.[/quote]

    I don’t understand, you like pipes and they are faster but you’re buying a can?

    I like the can myself, less power = smooth ride, easy to mount and no hassle adjusting the chain. Engine tires clutch, everything last longer.

    Gif

    in reply to: What do you look for in a club event? #16717
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Low entry fee

    Tech inspections

    Open tire rules

    Strict discipline for rough driving

     

    Gif

    in reply to: Shameful price gouging by big shops at the Supernationals #16621
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Not saying this would justify anything but, I wonder what the vendors were being charged for selling there.

    Gif

    in reply to: So what are YOU doing to promote karting? #16571
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    Karting is an underground subculture that should not be promoted less it lose it’s charm.

    Gif

    in reply to: Comer 80 Torque Specs #16486
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    140 inch pounds.

    in reply to: Kart Chassis Brand Selection-newbie #16396
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    I have an excellent 2008 CRG Road Rebel I’ll sell you. It is tuned for a 200Lb man at NJMP It only has one season on it because I’ve been doing other hobbies. Originally I had a Rotax on it, right now it has a really good KT100 package on it but I’ll sell you just the rolling frame with new tires for $2500 firm. All hardware is cotter keyed, full length rear bumper, Ribtec carbon fiber seat too. Save you allot of head aches getting started and CRG is supported at that track although you won’t need it with this kart because I’m an aviation mechanic and I prep my karts like a fighter jet. PM me.

    Gif

    in reply to: TAG vs. Rotax Decison-Newbie #16011
    Walt Gifford
    Participant

    [quote quote=16001]Went to NJMP and asked a few individuals[/quote]

    Good luck with that capt’n.

     

    Gif

Viewing 25 posts - 701 through 725 (of 788 total)