[Steen Carstensen]

WOW, this is going to be interesting.     :-))

[Steen Carstensen]

Don’t forget the fuel system. Drain the tank and fuel lines as well as the carb.

[Steen Carstensen]

Deleted

[Steen Carstensen]

<p>The cap will have a hole that matches the fitting on the throttle cable and a rubber boot that fit over the cap. Others, like the Dellorto carb, will have an adjustable threaded fitting that the end of the throttle cable slides into, and again a rubber boot to close it off.</p>

[Steen Carstensen]

I would simply thread the cap to fit which ever fitting you intend to screw in there; you may have to plug and re thread to make it all work. That said, lots of carb run without a threaded hole in the cap, so your choice.

[Steen Carstensen]

Maybe if you reformulated your question, you would get more responds. You are not making it clear what your problem really is, other than the fact that the cap it not threaded on ???

[Steen Carstensen]

http://www.sgm-velox-kart.com/gokart/index.php/en/

[Steen Carstensen]

No, look for a newer kart with a Honda engine.

[Steen Carstensen]

This should get you on the right track. http://www.superkart.org.au/Documents/rotaxmanual.pdf

[Steen Carstensen]

The replacement Pistons come in increments of 0.02m/m. A 54.02 m/m green piston will fit a 54.02 cylinder bore. If your bore size is 54.03, you will need the 54.02 red dot etc. etc. The clutches I can’t help you with.

[Steen Carstensen]

<p>Another vote for Motul 2 stroke oil. Please do NOT leave the fuel/oil mix in the tank on your kart. Only mix as much as you need for the day and drain it after the race weekend. Keep in proper gas can and shake it up good, before pouring it back in the tank for the next race day. Synthetic oils stay suspended in fuel a lot longer than castor oils do, but if you leave it in the tank for weeks, chances are, some of the oil will drop to the bottom resulting in poor running of the engine, you get the picture.</p>

[Steen Carstensen]

Like Dale, I use Motul products as well, best stuff IMHO. When you apply the lube, spray onto the inside/ bottom of the chain, not the outside as it will fling off easier. Do not use a lot, just enough to wet the chain, but do it after every race when the chain is still hot.

[Steen Carstensen]

You can run both, the deciding factor is which weight you run at. Most 30 mm chassis max out at around 390 lbs, after that you would want to use a 32 mm.

[Steen Carstensen]

The Maxima 927 is a good oil, but will gum up your engine. Do yourself a favour and buy Motul Gran Prix 2T, will keep your engine a whole lot cleaner.

[Steen Carstensen]

Here is a link to CRG’s manual, go the the “seat position” page and check those measurements against what you have on your kart.

http://www.kartcrg.com/pdf/crg_manual_en.pdf

[Steen Carstensen]

I am much the same size and fit perfectly well in the same kart. Are you sure the seat is in the right position. Go to CRG website and check out their set up guide, that will give you the measurements for seat install. Also the pedal can be moved forward on the chassis without the porch extension.

[Steen Carstensen]

You can look in the classified section on this forum, there are a few shifter karts for sale. If you are new to karting, I would recommend NOT starting in a shifter, most new drivers will be in over their head. Go to your local track and see what classes they race, talk to the drivers, and then make a decision from that.

[Steen Carstensen]

That is NOT a shifter kart, it’s a TAG kart, and in my mind way overpriced. You can do way better than that on a TAG. If you want to buy it, offer him $ 1500.

[Steen Carstensen]

Well, if it’s not the battery, it could be wiring. Make sure all your connections are clean and solid. This is a long shot, but I have seen the flywheel come lose on the crank shaft, so when you try to start, the flywheel spins, but does not spin the crank/engine.

[Steen Carstensen]

Your battery can show 12.8v but still be bad. Hook it up to a known GOOD battery, and see what happens. From your description of the engine starting to lose power and then die, I would bet you dime for $ that a new battery will fix your problem.

PS. The flywheel doesn’t engage, the starter motor does. That’s another sign of a poor battery, it has enough power the spin the starter, but not enough to throw the bendix  forward.

[Steen Carstensen]

It should be between 0.018″-0.025″. You will have to experiment what works best for your engine and the weather conditions for that particular day.

[Steen Carstensen]

Which type of ignition is on that engine. Is it Selettra or PVL ?
Go to their website, and you should be able to find the best way to wire up the kill switch. If you can’t find any info, contact Riley Will at BRC Engineering in Calgary Alberta, he knows more about those engines than anybody else.

[Steen Carstensen]

Moto or KZ ?  As far as I remember, there’s spare wire coming off the coil, you run a wire from that to a switch, and then from switch to ground. Get a push button switch that closes when pushed and open when released.

[Steen Carstensen]

I don’t know where you live, but that link is from a shop in Australia. Should be able to find a supplier closer to home.

[Steen Carstensen]

Check your needle valve. If you used carb cleaner with the needle valve in place, it will be ruined. ALWAYS remove the needle valve before using carb cleaner.

[Author]

Posts