[Steen Carstensen]

Do NOT localize the heat using a torch, you need to heat the whole case, it’s very easy to do, just don’t let your wife see you using her oven :-)) The other bearings will not be affected, just don’t go overboard with the heat. You may have a problem dropping the bearing in because the sleeve look to be out of round, so you may have to help it with light tapping of hammer and soft drift.

[Steen Carstensen]

What you have there is a separation between the steel sleeve and the aluminum case. If the sleeve hasn’t spun in the case, you should be OK. I would heat up the case in the oven to the point where the bearing drops into the pocket, then let it cool and check if the the gap has closed up. If all looks good with the bearing in place, you should be good to go. Always heat the case to remove or install the bearings, they should fall out or drop in. :-))

If the gap is still there, I would send the case to someone like Swedetech for a sleeve replacement.

[Steen Carstensen]

The only manual available to my knowledge, is the “Repair Manual” you can find it at this link.  http://www.srakarting.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/DD2_repair_manual_EN.pdf

Also check out this site, lots of good info.  http://www.rotax.com.au/technical.htm

[Steen Carstensen]

The rear rain tires are 6″ wide, so you will need narrower rims than for 7.1 slicks. You are correct with regards to the bolt pattern, fronts are different on the CRG karts, I bought a pair of 58 m/m b/p hubs for my rain tires, that way you can look for a cheap set of used aluminum rims.

[Steen Carstensen]

When you bleed the brakes, take the rod from the pedal off at the master cylinder lever and make sure the lever has returned ALL the way back against the MC, then go ahead and bleed the brakes, that should fix your problem.

[Steen Carstensen]

I normally follow Italian Motors maintenance schedule, you can find it here, http://italianmotors.com/collections/engines-complete-tm/products/tm-k9b-125cc
Look under the set up, and also note the torque specs.

[Steen Carstensen]

The CRG R/R is an excellent chassis and you should be able to tune it for your needs. Please give us some more info about your problems and how the chassis is set up.

[Steen Carstensen]

Get ready, kart in neutral, the starter puts one foot on rear bumper, and on your signal, gives a good strong push with foot, driver hits gear lever for second gear, engine starts, grab clutch and put in neutral, job done.

[Steen Carstensen]

Question # 1: Nylock flange nuts
Question # 2: Look at the manufactures recommended pressures and adjust for daly conditions. Check tires when hot coming off the track, you want all four the same pressure.

[Steen Carstensen]

Go to your local hardware store and get a 1/8NPTx1/4″push on brass fitting, then drill and tap matching thread in the intake.

[Steen Carstensen]

I would suggest that you search the net for “Rotax FR125 manual” and download it, then you will never be lost for information.

[Steen Carstensen]

Yes, you should definitely buy the RAV valve spring tool, and make sure you have a screwdriver small enough to remove the idle emulsion tube without doing damage to the threads. You need a few drills to set float height.

It sounds to me like you have done you homework, I recommend the jetting software you are thinking of buying. Then go out there and have Some fun.

[Steen Carstensen]

You didn’t say which event you are racing at, but if it is an international level Rotax event, you need yellow background with black numbers. Go to CIK-FIA and check out the tech regs 2.24. http://www.cikfia.com/fileadmin/content/REGULATIONS/Technical/Technical%20Regulations/Web_RT_FULL.pdf

[Steen Carstensen]

If you go to this link you should be able to find what you need.

GoRotax

[Steen Carstensen]

Only replace it if it is faulty. Take it out and have a good look at the needle under a magnifying glass, look for a ring around the rubber seal area or any other irregularity, also check the seat of cause. Make sure the small fibre washer is in place under the seat when you screw it back into the carb body.

[Steen Carstensen]

You are correct, the axle is fine, thats only 0.0032″ TIR which is very close to perfect.

[Steen Carstensen]

I have a question for you, did you clean the carburetor with carb cleaner without removing the needle valve, if you did, you ruined the seal on the tip of the needle and that would cause you having gas in the air box. Check that first and get back to us.

[Steen Carstensen]

If you run Rotax series you have to run their oil, if not you can run whatever you have.
If your engine is sealed, I would not run castor as you can not get in there and clean the ring and piston, just buy some Motul or XPS and you are good to go.

[Steen Carstensen]

Tom, you need to do some more traveling outside the US of A. I know everything is bigger and better in America, but one thing it is not, is bigger than Europe. Check the facts, and you will find that Europe is in fact bigger.
Just saying

[Steen Carstensen]

What make is your kart??? I would contact the nearest dealer and order what you need. Here is an example of what you need.

http://italianmotorsusa.com/collections/bearings/products/40mm-bearing.

[Steen Carstensen]

To the best of my knowledge the answer is NO. Each country is allotted a range of serial numbers, and your engine has to be within that range to be legal in Canada.

If you run club only, you can get away with it, but any RMC races will disallow the engine.

[Steen Carstensen]

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