[Steen Carstensen]

Make sure the arm on the master cylinder returns ALL the way back against the body. Best way is to disconnect the balance bar at the MC arm, then bleed the brakes. I use a “Mighty Vac” attached by a piece of fuel line to the bleeder nipple.

[Steen Carstensen]

Brian, we are not talking about the  spindles, if you read the post, you would see, that the questions were concerning the holes on the steering shaft spades. You are however right in that moving the tie rods to the inner holes on the spindle arms will increase ackerman, whereas the opposite is true with regards to the steering shaft spades.

[Steen Carstensen]

Cliff. I have had to file the holes in after market wheel slightly oval to the inside to fit my Tony//Kart. I am not sure if it was the wheel or if Tony//Kart uses a slightly smaller bolt circle. No big deal, just make sure they fit with no interference.

[Steen Carstensen]

Go to Italian Motors website, and look up the homologation papers for the K9B and K9C, it will tell you right there if there is any difference between the two.

[Steen Carstensen]

Glad you found the problem. Now buy 2 of each and keep the spares in your toolbox. :-))

[Steen Carstensen]

My guess is your exhaust is broken. There is a perforated pipe inside the muffler part of the exhaust, and they break in half and thereby block the flow. You will need new one and also new packing.

[Steen Carstensen]

CRG uses different front hub bolt circles. The most common is 58 m/m, CRG uses a 67 m/m.

[Steen Carstensen]

Make sure to remove the needle valve before you spray the carb with brake clean, or you WILL have to buy a new one.

[Steen Carstensen]

I have been using a Tillett rib vest for years now, also racing 125 shifters. Have  had no rib problems since I started using  it. Highly recommended.

[Steen Carstensen]

I will go out on a limb here and suggest that you have a vacuum leak, most likely the main seals. You can do a pressure test on the engine, but of cause that would assume you have the equipment to do that, or you could buy new seals and see if that makes a difference. Also check the intake rubber boot to see if there are any cracks.

[Steen Carstensen]

Yes it will build RPM (not rpm’s :-) ) faster with a smaller sprocket on the clutch. Do the math, 15 vs. 18 is a lower gearing.

[Steen Carstensen]

Good one, will try that the next time, a lot faster than removing seat struts.

 

[Steen Carstensen]

TJ.

Taking off the seat struts loosens up the rear, which helps prevent understeer.

If time allows, i.e. heavy rain all day, I do a complete front end rain setup, which includes max chassis height, full caster, max ackerman, more toe out and full width as well. Basically tighten up the front, loosen up the rear with soft axle, remove seat struts, short hubs and aluminum wheels with rain tires.

[Steen Carstensen]

Self adjustment is build into the system. The trick is to make sure the master cylinder lever/piston returns all the way back when the brake is released. If you preload the lever/piston by shortening the brake rod, you will defeat self adjustment.

[Steen Carstensen]

The way you set your chassis up for wet conditions, is pretty much the same for all brands. One off the best setup guides out there is the one from Arrow Karts http://www.racekarteng.com.

If you read that, you will have a much better understanding of what it takes to race in the rain. More often than not, you do not have the time to do all the changes, so what I do is widen the front, short hubs and narrow the rear, take off the seat struts, and I have a rubber mat about 1″ thick cut to fit the bottom of my seat which I sit on, that way I raise my centre of gravity.

[Steen Carstensen]

On a CRG 08 the brake is self adjusting. As Walt said make sure you have good brake pads with only slight clearance.

Next step is to bleed the brakes with fresh fluid. When you bleed the brakes, make sure the lever on the master cylinder is ALL the way back against the MC. I use a MightyVac attached to the bleed nipple with fuel line, and suck the fluid through the system, make sure the top is off the MC, and keep filling it as needed. When happy, put it all back together.

Now you want to adjust you brake pedal. Keep shortening/lengthening the brake rod until the pedal is in the right location for the driver, BUT the lever on the MC should ALWAYS be up against the MC when brake is at rest.

Now you are good to go.

[Steen Carstensen]

Moving the tie rods to the inside holes will reduce the amount of Ackerman.

[Steen Carstensen]

What you have, is a rod big end bearing failure. That causes all kinds of havoc including cutting up the thrust washers. Bearing failure can happen for Many different reasons, i.e. Detonation, lack of lubrication or poor installation. Etc etc…….

[Steen Carstensen]

Hi Steve. Please post a picture of your piston to give us a better chance at diagnose the problem.

[Steen Carstensen]

Are you sure the piston hit the head, or is it detonation. There are way too many unknown factors to make an educated guess, but one thing that sticks out already is your squish, at 0.030″ you are well below what these engines are commonly set at.

[Steen Carstensen]

Why not just take a nut the same size as the bolt you want to drill and drill a hole through that. Now you have your drill jig. Put the nut in the wise, screw the bolt in to the where you want to drill the hole and go for it, it’s really that easy.

[Steen Carstensen]

[quote quote=25859]Thanks John, I actually built a little microswitch that activates a LED, just so I can see it in actual driving circumstances.[/quote]

Please post pictures of  the microswitch and installation, sounds interesting.

[Steen Carstensen]

Thread inset or Helicoil would work very well. Install the stud with remove able Loctite  thread locker.

[Steen Carstensen]

Yes, please let us know what Swedetech comes up with.

[Steen Carstensen]

Those sleeves are installed at the factory so I very much doubt that case made it past QC at TM, also the OP said the engine is a Swedetech, so again it would not have past his QC either. My guess is that something went wrong when the bearing was knocked out without preheating the case, they are in there pretty tight. In a perfect world, yes I agree the sleeve need to come out and the bore should be checked for round and if need be, rebored with new sleeve installed, but I would try to install an old bearing and have a look see and check for gap between the sleeve/case and the bearing/sleeve and if no gap is present, the case can be used as is.   JMHO

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