[Steen Carstensen]

First off, top RPM for those engines when racing is in the low 14000, they fall off pretty quickly after that.

Unscrew the top of the carb, pull the spring out of the slide, then unhook the throttle cable, you see a brass fitting, unscrew that and the needle will come out, do watch out for the small washer on top or underneath the clip, that’s for 1/2 needle clip adjustments.

[Steen Carstensen]

Make sure you are not “riding” the brakes, which will overheat them. It’s a very common mistake and can be fixed by adjusting the brake pedal so it’s a little further away from your foot.

[Steen Carstensen]

Go to Dellorto’s website and look up the vhsh 30, there is a ton of tuning info for these engines/carb’s out there.

[Steen Carstensen]

It could be a lot of different courses, but I would check if your water temp lead and RPM wire are running too close together. I had a problem like that, were my water temp was all over the place, after separating the wires, problem gone.

[Steen Carstensen]

Samir, I had to correct my post with regards to the 10 and 12 degrees spindles, less angle,  i.e. 10 vs 12 will give more negative camber.

[Steen Carstensen]

The 10 or 12 degree is the angle between the kingpin/bolt and the spindle i.e. a 10 degree will give you 2 degrees more negative camber.

The 25mm spindle is of cause stiffer than the 17mm, but is also supported by a 10mm kingpin, as compare to 8mm for the 17mm.

Hope this helps.

[Steen Carstensen]

ANDY

I thought the power valve on the EVO engine/upgrade kit was electronically operated, is there still a need for exhaust pressure for it to work???

[Steen Carstensen]

A lathe and a boring bar.

[Steen Carstensen]

Someone told me long time ago to look inside the tire, you will see an area where the inner carcass overlaps, try to mount the tire so that area is opposite to the valve stem. You can also balance the tire/wheel on the front spindles using stick on weights.

[Steen Carstensen]

You have to be more specific about which MC you have, if its a resent model, there will be a “FILL LINE” inside the reservoir, fill to that.

[Steen Carstensen]

The fins should always point towards the back. The air moves from the center toward the outside as the rotor is spinning. Same principle as any pump.

[Steen Carstensen]

http://www.kartservice.nl/pdf/DOC_Handbuch_Dellorto.pdf

This is not for the Rotax Dellorto carb, but the principle is the same.

[Steen Carstensen]

Go to http://www.italianmotors.com and look up under engine parts. They have all the schematics of the different TM engines.

[Steen Carstensen]

First off, you do NOT shim these brake calibers, they are self adjusting

From your video, that doesn’t really look that bad.

First, take off the top cover plate and the rubber insert on the MC, and check that the MC is not overfilled, there is a fill line in the MC reservoir. While that is off, push the rotor against the brake pads, so to move them just a very small amount, do both sides, check fluid level again and adjust if too high. Put it back together and pump the brake a few times using the pedal, make sure the MC lever returns all the way each time. If that doesn’t work, check for run out on the brake carrier.

 

[Steen Carstensen]

I take the carb off and turn it upside down, let it drain into a container through the vent tubes. I blow the fuel in the fuel line back into the tank, then empty the tank. You can crank the engine after you replace the carb to get any fuel still stuck in the jets and tubes.

[Steen Carstensen]

Yes, I always drain the carb after a race or practice weekend, even if it will only sit until next weekend.

[Steen Carstensen]

You have to work the brake a bit when you are certain the MC lever return all the way.

[Steen Carstensen]

First thing I would do is to check that the lever on the master cylinders go all the way back against the body, when the brake is at rest. Take the rubber cover off and disconnect the brake rod/cable at the lever and adjust the rod if necessary.

[Steen Carstensen]

Good point, but dont forget that not all countries in Europe are on the euro currency. Look to your dealers to drop the prices when they buy new stock, until then good luck with cheaper karts and parts.

[Steen Carstensen]

12 and 13 are the most common drive sprockets, and 84-87 are normal rear sprockets. Again it very much depends on the layout of the track, how slow is the slowest corner, and how long/fast is the longest straight.

[Steen Carstensen]

Way too many variables to answer that question. Go to the track where you will be racing and ask around, that will get you in the ball park. Racers are normally very good at helping out newcomers.

[Steen Carstensen]

If you are going that route with full rebuild and Evo upgrade, I would suggest you get a quote on the work and parts from Unser and then compare that to the cost of a new engine, I bet it will be close and then you would still have a senior engine you could sell.

[Steen Carstensen]

Bret, in your first post you said you need the engine rebuild and a new “junior head” installed. I think you mean a “junior cylinder”, there is a huge difference in price. Thought I would give you a heads up, cylinder heads are the same, cylinders are different, cost of cylinder around $600.00.

[Steen Carstensen]

Italian Motors have all their IAME engines and parts for sale, give them a call.

[Steen Carstensen]

Yes William, that one, the great never ending debate, but I have a funny feeling that the above mentioned ideas, may not be too far from the truth.  :-D

[Author]

Posts