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    • #59638
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      RPM is useful if you’re trying to find the gear and you need it to keep the Mychron working.  Also some times when I come out of a corner I check the rpm to see if it was a good line or corner.

      Head temp not totally necessary on the 206. You can’t remove the washer on the spark plug on a 206 so you can’t replace that with the head temp sensor. There’s no way to change the temp and from what I’ve heard most run on the colder side anyways. Might be useful on engine break in to monitor but just dont be a bone head and you’d be fine.

      You can go crazy with your data but as far as the engine, very little to monitor on the 206.

    • #58087
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      Hi Lenny,

      I sent you an email a few days ago about the Tony Kart suit. What year is it? Are there pictures? Thanks.

    • #56966
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      I think you’re talking about Bakersfield. It’s not a very long track even though it has some winding sections. I’d scrub them a bit before qualifying. I’m still debating on going down for that race. Have to OK it with the wife.

    • #56952
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      You have to take into consideration the engine/class and track surface. If you’re running tag or shifter and the track isn’t too smooth you should be fine with that amount of time. But if you’re running something lower horsepower like lo206 and the track is very smooth, probably not enough time to get full potential of them.

      In general lo206 by lap 4 or 5 my kart is fine. Tag lap 2. That’s what I’ve found. So if you scuffed them in practice you should be fine.

    • #56281
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      sold

    • #55010
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      Still available, a few nibbles but no bites.  Engine has Skusa legal Tillotson carb.  Price includes shipping.

    • #51557
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      I ran o-ring chains on a tag kart for years and didn’t think there was anything wrong with that. I’ve even run them on 4 cycle karts for enduro events and run fast times. So I don’t think it would rob too much power from the engine.

    • #49887
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      parts still available.

    • #49720
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      You need to replace the rubber seals in both the master cylinder and the caliper.  Doesn’t matter how much you bleed if those are old you wont have strong brakes.

      If the kart is from the early 2000s or earlier they used MCP brakes. Margay I think still uses them and I’ve seen the parts on Comet kart sales before.

      http://www.mcpbrake.com/

       

      If it’s newer I’m pretty sure they used righetti ridolfi brakes which parts are available for.

       

       

    • #49161
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      Rob is pretty right on, I rebuild my brakes at least once a year (all new seals etc).  If it still happens after that, could be user error like the first comment suggests.

    • #48632
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      Updated pricing.

    • #48576
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      The carb is a Tryton M1. Many other older engines used the same carb so parts are still available. I think Italian Motors has them.

      There’s also 2 versions of the TX, the older TX have an 18mm crank pin and the newer ones have a 20mm crank pin. I ran them a lot a number of years ago. I have a whole carb for sale too right now in the classifieds.

    • #48570
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      In the 90’s and early 2000’s Tony Kart and Mike Wilson karts (probably some others too) decided to make some karts with a wider spacing on those frame rails. You probably will never find a mount or find a way to get an inboard engine to work with that chassis without cutting the crossmember and seat struts (which I strongly do not recommend). It’ll work good for kt100 though if you have that option.

    • #48158
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      Hey Nick,

      I have a set of MXP front wheels for sales on another post.

      https://new.ekartingnews.com/forums/topic/otk-parts-wheels-hubs-shifter-chain-guard-etc/

      send me an email tayloryoung1984@gmail.com

    • #48078
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      updated stock list and prices.

    • #47849
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      If your kart is set up properly you will almost always be faster on newer tires. If you are faster on used tires that means the kart is over stuck and the set up is wrong. Now if you were using very very soft tires on a low horsepower class sure used might be better. But we don’t run those types of tires in the US and certainly not at club level.

      If you’re new and still learning then used tires will be okay, you really have to be right on that razor’s edge to take advantage of new tires. If I were you I would record your set up right now on those used tires, seems like it works well for you. When you get new tires if you go slower, throw a softer axle in, shorter hubs, etc.

      If you’re able to beat others at the track with those used tires, stick to it, save some money. But if you want to get the most out of the kart, tune it for the tires and you’ll be even faster.

    • #47737
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      the links aren’t working. Do you guys run the same layout each race at the fairgrounds?

    • #47622
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      It seems like it’s hard to keep track who is actually importing them now but I’ve seen Nash Karting stickers on some energy karts around and Snow Racing in Sacramento has been a dealer/importer at certain times.

    • #44345
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      I also have all of the gears and jets you would need, they come free with the kart!

    • #44214
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      What color is it?

    • #40466
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      At least Constructors Cup and Stars of Karting offered something different, direct drive/ICA european style event.

      If there is another  National Series it should be focused around KZ or something more along the lines of WSK/CIK events/classes.

    • #39593
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      I’ve been racing for 17 years, I’m 6’3″ and never had to use a special chassis or anything. You just need to know how to set up the kart. Set the peddles far back, remove the foot rest thing a lot of karts come with now. Raise the steering wheel til it’s comfortable. Make sure the seat is low.

    • #39477
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      I saw PSL state in several areas online that this was not their decision. K1 probably put up some big promises on sales and marketing of the brand. There’s been lots of changes in how companies are distributing products here in the US over the last few years. OTK distribution and dealer network, IAME East/West, Praga distribution and dealer network. The factories want more control and organization over how their products are distributed and marketed.

    • #38356
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      That was my situation for a long time and I finally turned 30 and can run masters classes in Skusa. It really sucks being tall and trying to race karts.  I ran club races and just trained for the time I could move up to masters. Shifter karts are more forgiving with weight than tag stuff if that’s any help.

    • #38241
      Taylor Young
      Participant

      I’ve seen drivers suspended from participating for at least a year for things like that. Hopefully that’s the case here too because it’s totally unacceptable in the sport.

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