[Ted Hamilton]

SOLD.  Thanks, Carl!

[Ted Hamilton]

TJ at Oktane is a top-shelf painter….buy from him with confidence too!

[Ted Hamilton]

HJC AR-10ii, size Med., Snell SA2010 rating, clearance model, $150…. I’m a helmet painter and can add a custom touch if you’d like too.  Let me know if interested.

Just like this, only in gloss white:

[Ted Hamilton]

Eh, strip it off and run direct-drive! :)

[Ted Hamilton]

I am located near Winston-Salem, NC.   I purchased the kart from a local guy who wasn’t into karting but had traded an Arrow/Rotax and this frame for his streetbike.  I made an offer, and he took it, and I figured I’d pass it on to others in the karting community rather than see it getting hacked up into a yard kart or something.  It has had the right seatstay rewelded, but I think it was a “patch” weld rather than it snapping off.  Fresh powdercoat, and otherwise straight and very clean.  Feel free to call me at 336.692.3700 8am – 7pm for more info.  Can ship via Fastenal for around $150-200, depending on location.  I sourced the eccentric bolts yesterday and they’re now included.

[Ted Hamilton]

Crap.  Glad I didn’t buy the pipe yet!!

[Ted Hamilton]

Good value for my money — lots of track time without hidden fees, and a family-friendly environment with good food and bathrooms.

[Ted Hamilton]

Dale — thanks for the info…may try that…

Mark gave me a call and I’m going to try to source a replacement housing first, then machine mine if all else fails…

Thanks!

~Ted

[Ted Hamilton]

Are the 50mm CRG hubs a standard 3/58 pattern or are they CRG pattern?

[Ted Hamilton]

The main seals are fine, but this model has a double seal on the caliper — one main fluid seal on the piston itself, then another square “wiper” seal inside on the caliper body near the edge that appears to be intended to keep brake dust, etc. out.  It’s not designed to keep air in or out on the outer dust seal in the caliper — at least not that I can tell.   I’m going to order a new set anyhow and that should take care of the issue.

I will say that the Swiss Hutless system is the best engineered system I’ve seen — remote reservoir built into the master cyl. that allows for recirculation of the fluid when the pads retract so that it’s always self-filling and stays “full”…  It must work somewhat like a piston-port.

[Ted Hamilton]

Walt — the dust seals had gotten corrosion behind them and were binding the pistons up.  I’ll have new ones on tap shortly, but for now I cleaned the corrosion out and reinstalled the old one and the issue was fixed (mostly.)  Thanks…

~Ted

[Ted Hamilton]

Kudos to them…

[Ted Hamilton]

I have a whole set of 40mm direct mount sprockets if you’re interested.

20t, 22t, 24t, 25t, 26t, 27t, 28t, 29t

Sorry, no 23t…. but http://www.sharkshifter.com may have ’em.

[Ted Hamilton]

I’d either seal the hole or re-tap next larger size… A socket head cap screw with a rubber o-ring should work, if the proper length?

[Ted Hamilton]

From the bearing hangers and the front right spindle area, looks to be a CRG. I’d guess that it’s a late 90’s Kalifornia chassis, though I’m not an expert on them. Looks in great shape. Engine appears like the Maxter F1K engine, though I’m not an expert on that either — it just doesn’t look like a HPV/KPV, and since it has a clutch it’s not a ICA engine… The bodywork and nerfs are older, and assuming everything works, the chassis as a roller is worth around $500 imo. The engine, perhaps another $300 if it’s reasonably fresh and functional.

Great chassis to learn karting on, but kinda a red-headed stepchild without a place to run (no legal classes for it.) If I’m wrong and it’s a KPV, then there’s plenty of places for it to run, and it’s a great starter kart.

Perhaps someone with more CRG knowledge will chime in. Hope that helps…
~ted

[Ted Hamilton]

Michael — where are you located? I have a copy of a Rupp A-Bone that would be a great starter kart… I’d make you a killer deal — cheaper than the parts you’ll need to resurrect that. Plus there’s enough “tidying” up to do on mine that you could still treat it like a project although it’s a “runner” now.

Let me know if you’re interested.

[Ted Hamilton]

Just bought 2 sets from Tom today — great guy, great pricing! Buy with no worries! ~Ted

[Ted Hamilton]

You could try brake cleaner or lacquer thinner and abrade them lightly as well after they’re clean. May or may not get them clean enough, and probably won’t be like 100% virgin pads…

[Ted Hamilton]

(I answered your other post…) Neither is a true vintage kart, but seem like late 80’s / early to mid 90’s “Classic” karts. I have a couple of true vintage karts available and will make you a good deal if you’re serious about jumping in…

[Ted Hamilton]

…and FWIW, driving style plays a big part too — perhaps you’re not turning in vigorously enough, or turning in too soon and too gradually. There’s a lot of factors to get handling “right” for the kart AND you and a plethora of adjustments to try (axle flex affects it, Cg affects it, Seat and arm rigidity affect it…etc etc.)

[Ted Hamilton]

…and FWIW, neither of those is a true vintage kart… Here’s one of mine:

[Ted Hamilton]

I have a couple for sale… can ship pretty cheap too. I’d make it worth your while — I want to focus on my KT-100 program and can only drive 1 kart at a time…lol. ted@hamiltonhelmets.com or 336.692.3700 8am-8pm.

[Ted Hamilton]

Cooling your head may be more beneficial than cooling your body, though they’re related… I wonder if you could plumb a righetti ridolfi brake cooler to the inlet on a vented helmet spigot… :)

[Ted Hamilton]

Wider front increases jacking effect at rear, but narrowing increases grip (usually) so it’s a balancing act. If the rear doesn’t pick up properly you’ll feel like the front is pushing until the rear goes into a snap oversteer, so make sure you analyze what’s happening in each portion of the turn that you want to correct. If you want more grip at both ends, I’d narrow both track widths until you’re almost bicycling. Alternatively, you can leave the track widths alone and raise seat height to increase weight transfer and jacking effect — especially helpful in the rain — but hard to do quickly. Some just sit on an extra pad for rain races…

Good luck.

[Ted Hamilton]

I’m in Winston-Salem…  Do you have any metric 5″ wide x 5″ dia. rims?  I don’t need the direct-spindle-mount rims — just standard metric pattern x 5″ wide.  Let me know and maybe was can work it out.  Thanks,

~Ted

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