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Ted HamiltonParticipant
I’ve been looking at the same options — our local track has eliminated the Rotax official series, but FR125 allowed in TaG class… My conclusion was ultimately to stick with KT-100 or LO206, but if I was going to with a TaG it was going to be the X30 because I’m guessing the Leopard will be slowly phased out, and the FR125 updates and spares prices were becoming absurd (IMO). I also prefer adjustable jets on track…
However, if I was doing Road Racing and lots of practice, the equation would swing toward the RMax because of its’ longevity and RR strengths. Good luck with your decision.
Ted HamiltonParticipantOh, I’m not looking to do this…just curious if anyone had seen ’em and tried. IMO, a DRACK for a kart is silly.
Ted HamiltonParticipantIf you’re serious about containing costs, form a gentleman’s agreement to limit yourself in certain areas and take it to the rules committee to be codified. National level karting is cool, and I sometimes envy those who do it, but I have no sympathy for the costs involved — they are all self-imposed.
I probably shouldn’t even chime in here, but hey, it’s a free country…. :) If I ever make it to the National level, look for the SUV with the flatbed trailer. :)
Ted HamiltonParticipantWalt —
I can see your point, but we got grouped, as ICAs, with the TaGs at BeaverRun….we staggered the start so that we were perhaps 5 sec. behind on the green. Speeds were similar, and we were experienced enough to pass the slower TaGs and not interfere with their racing unduly.
IMO, if you’re grouped in, you owe it to the other class not to interfere — either let them all by on a straight, or something similar. And if you’re being passed, hold your line, and follow a normal racing line… But courtesy is a disappearing commodity in karting, it seems.
That’s where “Open” class makes sense to me as a catch-all — it doesn’t interfere with other classes points’ battles but still lets people race who don’t fit elsewhere…
~Ted
Ted HamiltonParticipantThe real question is what advantage you think it will have for the kart engine? The only area I know that really gets deposits would be the piston crown, assuming you’re using real castor oil… Otherwise, modern synthetics and blends burn pretty clean. Auto engines see more mileage at less than optimum mixtures and build more deposits. Seafoam was good for getting the EGR port and other sensors on my Blazer clean, but otherwise, never really thought to use it for a kart engine… And I’d probably just pull the head and use a q-tip with it for cleaning carbon off piston. Or a nylon brush in a drill…or a carbon scraper.
But to answer your question, I’d just remove the airbox and drizzle it into the carb throat while running at a high idle….
Ted HamiltonParticipantEd — thanks, Stu already pm’d me. :) I found a local one, but if that doesn’t work out, I’ll get one from him. Regards,
~Ted
Ted HamiltonParticipantI’ve rebuilt frames from scratch, but it does help to know what you are dealing with originally… If you’re able, and willing, to fabricate some, it shouldn’t be too hard, but it WILL be time and money consuming. The question really is — “do I want the satisfaction of building?” or “Do I just want to drive the dang thing?” Once you answer that, a good parts source can be found in most parts of the country, and the internet makes things just a click away…
Winged outlaw karts are just overgrown Emmick’s, so I wouldn’t worry about the abuse aspect, although I’d check high stress areas for cracks regularly… And I’d think a GX390 would be plenty of power….or the new 440 big bores.
Good luck, have fun!
Ted HamiltonParticipantI would agree that new kart prices seem absurd….to those who haven’t priced out what it would cost to build their own…
Having said that, why are we pushing new karters into new packages? I started karting with a $500 Tony//Kart Esprit (1998 model) in 2002 with a 1997 $300 Haase Titan ICA. I raced club level ICA at BeaveRun at a better performance level than TaG for about $1000 once I added in the cast-off tires from the 2001 STARS event at the same track…
The NUMBER ONE factor that influenced me beyond cost was this: I had a good friend who took the time to help me go karting by pitting for me, even though he was an accomplished karter himself. He answered my (sometimes stupid) questions, made sure I was where I needed to be when I needed to be on raceday until I got used to the format, and served as a mentor.
The focus on cutthroat instead of friendly competition is what is killing karting, IMO. That, cost, and complexity. Get an air cooled Komet or KT with 2 disc low-engagement clutch, a chassis with nerfs and only numberplates, and a helping hand in the pits, and I bet you’d have a winning formula for growth.
Ted HamiltonParticipantOne make / one engine — EasyKart. Must not have been what the masses wanted.
You’ll have to solve karting’s identity crisis before you can solve its’ logistical and leadership crises. Or else figure out how to herd the cats.
Ted HamiltonParticipantMore importantly, why are they speccing a tire at a national level? Most things should be “open” at that level of racing…IMO.
Ted HamiltonParticipantPics of wildkart clutch lever / hub, please….ted at hamiltonhelmets dot com. Thanks!
Ted HamiltonParticipantIKF is “member led”, and you can’t convince me that they’re not a political quagmire….in most cases of democratic orgs, I see “many chiefs few Indians” syndrome, or the “charismatic popularity contest” winner while the more reasoned, but introverted candidate loses out because he/she is not as networked.
IMO, the solution is a benevolent dicatatorship, where someone who knows, and loves, the sport for what it is forms an org with competent staff, reasonable rules, and a focus on family fun and only tweaks the formula in very minor ways to improve the “product.” Once that formula is found, don’t change it for decades. Who cares if it’s “boring” — the people who love the sport for what it is aren’t going to leave, only the trendsters.
The chief difficulty will be finding a suitable candidate who actually wants the job, and is immune to the sway of corporate bribes.
Ted HamiltonParticipant^^ and while they make money off the sport, they also love it for what it is and are 3 generation kart shop owners and racers…
Ted HamiltonParticipantIMO, until the focus returns to growing karting instead of how to make money off of karting, the dilemma will continue. In many ways, I see it as a microcosm of the short-term-profit focus of business — instead of offering a superior product and focusing on customer satisfaction, businesses go for the maximum short-term shareholder benefit — to the detriment of the product. Never forget — it’s the product that attracts people and sells — neglect it and die.
The struggling American consumer wants, imo, something that:
1) can be raced virtually anywhere
2) is affordable
3) doesn’t take all week to prepare
4) has rules and configuration stability
Perhaps that explains why the KT-100 is surviving ( I wouldn’t call it thriving…) while everything else but the LO206 (which fits most of the above criteria too) is fading…
A domestic 2-cycle offering would be nice — a la Copperhead 820 — but the lure of exotic Italian machinery and the hollow promise of untold riches for importing them has too much hold for any real domestic success, I think. The closest would be Riley Will’s BRC150, which would be an awesome Pro class…as would the NordAm.
I’m curious to see what the WKA fallout will be….a strong, sport-driven leader could help fix things, whereas more importer and manufacturer pandering will give us a deeper quagmire. Time will tell.
Ted HamiltonParticipantI have a RM80 as well, and I called suzuki with the number on the case and they were able to tell me what year it was…Mine’s a 96, but since they’re all basically the same, doesn’t matter too much.
Have fun!
Ted HamiltonParticipantIf you’re already repairing a crack, I’d just cut out a little wedge, bend the stinger over and weld the new seam together there too.
Ted HamiltonParticipant250 pipe if you want any real performance. Pipe volume makes big difference…
Ted HamiltonParticipantCR – not sure what you mean by that last comment? It does have a kill switch button…
1996 CR80…
Ted HamiltonParticipantI have one on a 40mm hub…not sure if hole pattern is same…
Ted HamiltonParticipantdouble post….grr!
Ted HamiltonParticipantSolved the issue by buying a Hegar sprag with 4 gears. :)
Ted HamiltonParticipantPractice your starts before the first race. :)
Ted HamiltonParticipantHere’s the rear spoiler….I have a chin spoiler available too, but most blend them into the helmet pre-paint. I don’t know if it would work to glue on finished helmet or not… Rear can be added anytime.
Ted HamiltonParticipantDaniel — I’m a HJC dealer and have the add-on aero spoiler that would fix your aero issue, I think. Drop me a PM if you’re interested. Are you having issues with front end lift or buffeting? The way the spoiler is constructed, it should fit several brands and models…
Ted HamiltonParticipant
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