[Steve O’Hara]

The part with the sprocket should spin freely on the crank and slide right off if the key is removed. The picture of a replacement crank half is the other side of the crank where the ignition rotor mounts. It has a different taper and thread size than the clutch side.

If you are near Franklin take the engine there and get some good advice on the required repairs.

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Oh, one more thought on using the fuel tank… if you use the vent line for the gravity feed you will need to remove or at least loosen the cap so the tank will vent air in while pumping fuel out.

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

OK, you are making progress. The fact that the idle control problem went away with the gravity feed settles the question of an air leak in the engine…. if there was an air leak the problem would persist with the gravity feed.

You need a container of fuel big enough to run the engine until it gets warm… consider using your fuel tank and laying it on its side above the engine and run a line from the fuel tank vent to the inlet on the carb.

Leave the normal fuel line plumbed to the fuel pump and run a line from the pump to a container and leave the pulse line (vacuum as you called it) connected so the pump will still work. When you run the engine and it is cold you should need to apply some throttle every few seconds to keep the engine running… that is a normal condition. In fact the engine may be set up so it will not idle and you have to keep cracking the throttle to keep it running. From what you have described so far I think your fuel pump is not working up to par so you have to test the output to see if it is delivering the required amount of fuel.

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

When you do your gravity feed test run the line coming out of the fuel pump to a container and watch the rate of flow to verify the pump is working. Air bubbles in the outgoing line indicate a leaky gasket or a small perforation in the pump membrane but a small amount of bubbles in the fuel flow should not have much effect on a float bowl carb. It is a problem on a pumper carb because the air has to go through the system but in a float carb the air just rises to the top of the float chamber and the engine should never see the air in the venturi of the carb.  Have you tried adjusting the shutter position to see if you can settle it down? One way to clearly identify an air leak is to back the idle adjustment screw completely off so the shutter is completely closed.

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Actually, an air leak will cause the exact behavior described. It takes very little extra air to allow the engine to rev way up without load. First thing to do is pressure test the engine by sealing off the exhaust and intake and pressurizing the engine with modest pressure. No need to go over 6 psi. Ideally it will hold pressure indefinitely but in the real world if it loses 1 pound or less in 10 seconds you are in good shape as long as the leak is not the head gasket.

If the engine will hold pressure then the problem is in the fuel system and those bubbles may be a clue. It’s pretty common that a two cycle engine will rev way up if the fuel shut off valve is closed while the engine is at idle. The condition can last from just a few seconds to as much as 10 seconds or more depending on the type of carb and the amount of residual fuel laying in the case. Eventually it will die from lack of fuel but in the 5 to 10 seconds it revs way up you can do nothing about it unless you have an electric kill switch.

Your discovery that there was very little fuel in the bowl leads to the question… is the fuel system starving the engine making it act like the fuel shutoff has been closed?

Make sure your lines are all good with no holes or cracks and pressure check the pump to make sure there are no leaks. Then  test the fuel flow by installing a “T” fitting between the pump and the carb and running a line to a container to collect fuel. When you run the engine at idle the pump should be able to deliver the fuel the engine needs to the carb and also keep a steady stream of excess fuel to the container. If it won’t deliver any excess to the container you should rebuild the pump.

Good luck.

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Michael,

If you have max ackerman and toe out when the steering is centered and then you turn the steering full lock you’ll basically get the front wheels pointing radically different directions. With a bunch of ackerman the outside wheel will turn in through about 75% of the steering range and then it will reverse direction while the inside wheel will continue to turn sharper in the direction you are turning the steering wheel. The end result will be around 2 to 3 inches of toe out at full lock and no kart will roll free in that condition.

When you made all the adjustments to the front end you nullified a lot of the effect described above so the kart will roll easier. The key thing to keep in mind is that you will never use full lock turning into a corner on the track unless your front tires are bricks and you have a huge understeer condition.

Steve O’Hara

 

[Steve O’Hara]

Ray,

 

Check your PMs

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Josh,

Go see Stu Hayner at MDG in Orange.

Here’s the contact information…

MDG Karting

1657 N Glassell Ave

Orange, Ca 92867

714-928-5278

Customer support and service is above and beyond.

A full range of ready to race karts from introductory to state of the art all at good prices.

Steve O’Hara

 

[Steve O’Hara]

Richard,

I’m still thinking about your chassis and would like to come take a look at it.

I can do it tomorrow if you are available.

Call me at 949-521-2828 after 9:00 am to discuss.

Steve O’Hara (steveohara@msn.com)

[Steve O’Hara]

Where can I find a final results list for the event with driver’s age, country and chassis used???

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Here’s how I carry mine for one day outings. Plugs into hitch receiver and serves as a vertical stand when storing the kart in the shop… just plug in the wheel assembly on each side and pull it out of the receiver and roll it away.

Steve O’Hara

http://imageshack.com/a/img220/95/dsc00031cd.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img51/5506/dsc00032cw.jpg

[Steve O’Hara]

Robert,

If you are running a KT100 with the IKF/WKA required minimum 11cc in the combustion chamber and you are not worried about passing a tech inspection at a race then the best choice of gas is the lowest octane pump gas at your local service station.

Generally speaking, octane ratings are an indication of a fuel’s resistance to detonation and you’ll find that the higher octane blends need to be run very lean to perform well. If you ignore the conventional wisdom and try running the low octane gas you’ll discover that the engine will run clean and produce excellent power with a richer mixture that results in lower engine temps and longer component life. You’ll also discover that the engine is not as sensitive to the mixture settings and will run good under different weather conditions and with different drivers without as much attention to the needle settings.

It’s important to understand that the compression ratio mandated by the IKF/WKA rules is extremely low so there is virtually no chance of detonation unless the engine is run much too lean. Accordingly, there is no need for the expensive race gas with high octane ratings to protect the engine from detonation.

The KT100 is not a thoroughbred racing engine, it is an industrial engine adapted to karting with the emphasis on cheap, reliable and simple to run. It does need or benefit from expensive gas blends.

As for the oil… any of the oils mentioned above will work fine but I still prefer the castor based oils. I recommend Burris castor at 16 to 1. It is a very clean running castor and produces very little “carbon” buildup in the engines.

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Can’t tell for sure based on the view you provided but I give 95% odds that all three are DXLs of one spec or another.

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Stupid!  Can mufflers are for lawn mowers.

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Most people use a foam filter that is integral to the rubber boot that connects the box to the mount cup on the carb.

http://cometkartsales.com/RLV-Inner-Foam-Filter-for-Airbox-Angled.html

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Appears to be a very old early version of the L&T Dry, single disc.  Looks like it is falling apart and could be dangerous if the weight plates are coming loose and could fly off. I would not run the engine before servicing the clutch to fix the problems.
Here’s a link to the L&T web site. Get in touch with them and send them photos to see if they still make parts to fit yours.

Steve O’Hara

http://www.ltmfg.com/index.php?content=clutches

 

 

[Steve O’Hara]

Michael,

Part it out on ebay, some of the pieces will generate some interst.

That Margay throttle pedal will attract plenty of attention and more so if you can find the mate to it. The tanks might get some attention and the same for the spindles.

The rear axle, sprocket hub, swing mount, brakes will also sell.

You can also post information about the kart on the vintage karting sites… here are some links…

http://www.vintagekarts.com/forum/

Home

http://www.lostenduros.com/

Good luck!

Steve O’Hara

 

[Steve O’Hara]

Are you interested in a complete and virtually fresh Comer 100cc Rotary FA motor?

Here’s a photo… https://imageshack.com/i/n3dscn1256vj

The engine is very comparable to the Vortex 100 cc Rotary

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Look here…

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/62354150/HPV%20Info.zip

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Michael,

Parking lots and fields are no place to introduce a child to karting. Even seemingly well organized events can be dangerous when an inexperienced driver is involved. This link leads to a tragic story that serves as a reminder of how quickly things can go wrong.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152257776506545&set=a.76320161544.83777.55326701544&type=1&fref=nf

I’m all for introducing kids to karting but it should be done with properly designed and prepared equipment that is suitable for the age and experience of the driver and the driving should be confined to properly designed and maintained dedicated racing facilities.

The chassis you have there is designed to fit an adult laying down and will sit about 1″ off the ground if fitted with typical kart tires and wheels. The kart is intended to be used on large road racing circuits and will not turn sharp due to the long wheel base. It would be worse than starting from scratch to convert it to a machine that suits a 6 year old driver.

Hope you take the good advice offered here by several well intentioned posters and re think your plans.

Regards,

Steve O’Hara

 

 

 

 

[Steve O’Hara]

I’ll give you $100 for it. LOL

 

Of course, if you provide more info like the age, location, condition, components included and some pictures I might offer more!

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

cell foam will not help. A bottom feed tank needs a sump to trap fuel for the corners. Some builders installed a partition in the tank with a trap door that will allow the fuel to move to the rear during acceleration and trap it there when braking or turning. Others built the sump hanging out the bottom of the tank and have small holes in the floor of the tank that feed the sump. That setup required the floor of the tank to be raised up off the pan of the kart. Using a chaser line from the top is effective as long as the floor of the tank is smooth and has nothing the weighted end can hang up on.

If you have to do any welding on the tank be very careful to clean it well enough to insure there are no remaining hydrocarbons left to explode…. speaking from experience here :(

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Robert,

Nope, I’m in California and have been since day one.

Only time I’ve been to New York was to race the Atlantic at Watkins Glen.

It occurred to me that your tuning system would be a real useful tool for a good dyno setup.

Steve O’Hara

[Steve O’Hara]

Robert, Brian…

Since you guys are “vintage” you will enjoy these pictures of the artwork on the walls of my shop.  I have a couple TAG karts but they stay in the trailer LOL

http://imageshack.com/a/img856/4440/4i1j.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img404/949/dscn0458edited.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img690/478/dsc00074hd.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img214/4817/dsc00306vs0.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img824/5994/mxg8.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img62/8494/07un.jpg

[Steve O’Hara]

Guys,

Stringing a race car chassis is an effective way to align all four corners. With a kart there is no camber or toe adjustment at the rear so stringing would only be useful for the front end and there are simpler ways to set toe on a kart. To be honest all you really need is tape measure to set total toe and an angle finder to check the camber.

When I string my Formula Ford or Atlantic car I use a set of stringing bars that are built specifically for each chassis. The bars are configured to set the strings on each side parallel to and equal distant from the CL of the chassis just wide enough to clear the outside of the tires at the wider end of the car. The track widths on the race cars are much closer to equal than your typical kart so the measurements from the strings to the wheels are similar at both ends of the cars. On a kart the rear is usually much wider than the front so the string setup leaves more room for measuring error on the front end. Yes, it is a method that can be used but for general upkeep and tuning it is not practical.

Steve O’Hara

[Author]

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