[John Starkweather]

[quote quote=57089]While the Delorto is a better carb, I think that’s a bit too expensive a path for you to run down right now, since you’re clearly just getting your feet wet. If you are just puttering down the street you’re going to be overcarbed even with the Delorto. You need to take it out on a real track. Switch to a 52 low jet and a 172 main. That will lean you out quite a bit but still should be plenty safe. Check the plug after a few laps–black is rich but at least it won’t explode, brown is what you want, and white/chalky means too lean. Move up or down from this baseline setting as required. If you meet other drivers at your local track, they can probably help too. Incidentally, forgive my preaching but driving a shifter kart down the street is a real bad idea. Maybe its okay to make sure the brakes actually work, no parts are falling off, etc., but in addition to being dangerous and illegal, it will give you almost no useful data. My Skip Barber instructor said the next step up from a shifter is an Indy car. How much data would we get puttering a Dallera-Chevy around in the local cul-de-sac ? You’ve got a real race car and it needs a real race track. BTW, based on the photo, the vent below the carb looks like it is tapped into the crankcase and is a vent for running a fuel pump off the pulse. If your pump is running off another vent then plug it. [/quote]

 

This seems like sound advice. We have another pulse line so I will plug the vent in question. I will switch over to those jets and take it to the track to see how she does. The only question I have if we keep this carb for now is in regards to the to ports that have been filled in.. can you give some information on what they are and why they may not be needed in this setup. Also everyone talks about what position the slide is in but I don’t seem to have an adjustment on mine.

[John Starkweather]

What’s size would be good? And is there an easy formula for finding the correct jet size?

[John Starkweather]

The end goal is a sprint track but we’ve just been testing on my street before we take it out to the track. Located in houston tx and it was bought used so we’re unsure of what is correct. What do you think is a good jet size to try? The jet formulas are a bit above my head. Do you think I should get a smaller un-mutalated carb?

[John Starkweather]

Yeah that sounds right then because it’s fouling out almost immediately unless your full throttle. What’s a good size carb that is going to be relatively forgiving and can be adapted to the pump around system?

 

[John Starkweather]

Rear brakes turned out great thanks for the help. Of course we sprung another leak on one of the front calipers. Looking to go the same route and replace the front calipers with something inexpensive like we did with the rear. I measured 35mm bolt spacing but I measured them on the kart and it might be a little off. I did a search but couldn’t find something as good and cheap as the MBA rear caliper setup. 

[John Starkweather]

Thanks for the info Jim your right on point with where I am at :). I ordered the MBA caliper from ebay yesterday and they confirmed the 85mm bolt spacing. Thanks for all the help everyone!

[John Starkweather]

“Since it’s a 1999 kart with a YZ, I assume its for funzies and recreation and not serious competition”

I’m new to karting and I hope this is going to be a candidate to get started racing. I know its not up to date but is there anything that would prevent me from racing with it? I know rules are probably different depending on area and class but is there anything I need to know as far as compatibility?

“John here is the bracket you want for the RR caliper, no need to go to a 50mm axle and it’s cheaper.

http://www.accelerationkarting.com/righettirearcalipersupports.aspx”

I saw those and the measurements don’t match up to the 85mm measurement I came up with, am I missing something?

Right now I’m leaning towards the ebay caliper (http://www.ebay.com/itm/251992649509?item=251992649509&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr) because the guy told me its 84mm mounting and I’m assuming is the same as the 85mm I have. The only problem is it looks a little ‘chinese’ to me. Is there a reason I shouldn’t order that caliper?

[John Starkweather]

I measured the mounting holes for the rear brake caliper (85mm) and for the master cylinder(35mm). The master cylinder measurements matches up to what Fastech has posted but the caliper they have listed only has the specs of 10mm mounting holes which I’m assuming is the opening of the hole. Ive contacted Fastech but I probably won’t get a response until monday so I wanted to see if someone knew if this matched up.

http://www.fastech-racing.com/righetti-ridolfi-rear-caliper-brake-pads-included.html

Im not sure of the status of the master cylinders yet but I want to fix this rear caliper first and then go from there.

 

While I have yalls attention just a quick quick question about the new gas tank I just got.. Came with the option of having a vent or not, do I install one for this setup and if so do I just put it on top of the tank and loop the fuel line down?

 

And thanks for all of the quick responses this has been the best info I have found yet :).

[John Starkweather]

“If your holes have lost their coating seals won’t help it much.”

Is the anodized coating suppose to be in the bore? Heres a pictures of the caliper after cleaning, there is some minor pitting. Let me know what you think.. What would be a good cost effective replacement caliper for this chassis and what all is involved in changing the caliper to a different one?

[img]http://i.imgur.com/EqDc1F6.jpg[/img]

I will contact national kart supply tomorrow but I went out and measured 22mm which matches up to a seal on Fast tech. We did try some seals before and they wouldn’t fit well on the piston awhile back so Im trying to find out what we ordered last time.

 

 

[John Starkweather]

Ill make a trip to walmart then! Thanks for the info that helped a lot I wasn’t sure if I had to buy a any special tools or not for the bleeder screws. Ill get on that this weekend.

[John Starkweather]

[quote quote=28476]You bleed it by removing the little screw between the brake line and the return spring. There’s one on each side of the rear caliper. For the front caliper you’re on your own until I get a better pic but it might be that big screw right on top.

Then you need a way to force or gravity feed brake fluid into the master cylinders. An old mustard bottle full of DOT3 works.

The linkage to the master cylinder is a bias adjuster, it’s going to be different from one side to the other and it will flop all over the place with all that air in the system.

Please make sure the bolts holding the calipers to the frame are high tensile strength and not stove bolts and why is there an elbow coming off the rear master cylinder and not a straight fitting?

Brakes look like early righetti ridolfi?

Gif
[/quote]

Thanks for the response!
On the rear brake caliper bleeder screw I believe your speaking of I see one between the brake line and return spring I also see on below the brake line as well.. there are two on the other side as well. Is there a procedure to opening them?

Ill check on the bolts holding the calipers in, just got the kart so ill add it the list haha. As for the elbow on coming off the master cylinder I’m not sure Ill check that out tomorrow.

Once I get a response on the front Ill go ahead and give a shot at bleeding the system and see what happens. Is it possible the seals in the master cylinders have gone bad and not allowing pressure to build up? No brake fluid leaks anywhere and the master cylinders are topped up when I pulled the screws out.. just doesn’t seem that likely that air found its way into the system. Either way its going to get bled. Thanks again!

A few dark pictures of the front calipers;

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