[patrick hubbell]

When tuning with EGT, there is no “one” magic number.  Changes in weather, can have dramatic affects on EGT numbers. It is not the number but the trend that is most important.  What I mean by “trend” is this. You always wan the EGT to be an increasing number up to a maximum number what ever that may be for that particular day.  I like to use both an EGT and CHT gauge to best see the “trend”.

The trend: egt increasing / cht increasing.= good

egt decreasing / cht decreasing = too rich

egt decreasing / cht increasing = too lean.

EGT responds to changes much faster than CHT.  Always go richer on the mixture to be safe. If the EGT decreases with  richening the mixture, watch the gauge and try leaning the mixture 1/8 turn on the ‘L’ needle.  The EGT should increase rapidly from the moment you open the throttle. If the EGT responds slowly then you are too rich.

If you need help with this, call me at 408-569-7317

 

[patrick hubbell]

Yes, slow in and fast out.  Only if you are over driving the kart into the corners. Slow in means under control and no “sea sawing” of the steering wheel. Fast out is the result of being in control.

[patrick hubbell]

Arrow brakes are the best. Be sure you  follow the brake -in procedure.

[patrick hubbell]

Every time you heat cycle a set of tires you take some life out of them.  Take a look at the karts on the grid for qualifying.  Most will have a new set of tires.  Mid compound tires seem to be the worst. Take a Bridgestone YHC for instance. They are done after one day in my opinion. If you kart is consistent in the first several laps, then goes off, sounds like too much initial air pressure over heating  them.

[patrick hubbell]

Be sure the chain size matches both the engine sprocket and the axle sprocket( 219 or #35 ).  Does the engine sprocket spin freely with the chain removed? If the clutch sprocket dose not spin freely then check the spacer that is located between the engine and the clutch drum. They come in different thicknesses and diameters. A 10 tooth drum uses a smaller diameter spacer compared to an 11 tooth sprocket.

Be sure  the chain links move freely and do not kink.  Check the axle sprocket to clutch sprocket alignment.

[patrick hubbell]

1) Has the carburetor been rebuilt recently? If not, put a diaphragm kit in it. Remove the pump cover(aluminum) Check the fuel inlet screen for debris. check that the hose attached to the pump cover goes to the crankcase fitting.

2) set the H needle to 1/4 turn(for pipe) and the L needle to 2 turns. With these settings the engine will not idle.  You can make a KT idle by setting the L needle to 1/2 – 3/4, however there is not enough fuel at 3/4 to get out of the pits.

3) Use Race gas like VP or ERC (100 octane). and mix 8 ounces of castor oil(Blendzall green label) to 1 gallon.

4) Install a new fuel filter, watch the arrow for direction.

[patrick hubbell]

Mac 91B1 , ran Reed Jr.   next was a Yamaha KT100 piston port sr.  Honda 80cc. And Horstman HPV.  Tag Leopard.

[patrick hubbell]

Stop. never use a pipe wrench, channel locks, red locktite or an impact driver on the crank.  Use blue  Locktite and torque the nut to 300 inch pounds.  If red locktite was used on the starter nut you will have to melt it. To remove an L&T from the crank.  Remove the clutch cover. Place the special crank holding tool over the starter nut.  use a breaker bar with a 5/16″ allen and a wrench on the special tool. the starter nut is right hand thread. Counter clockwise to remove.  Using another special tool to remove the hub.  Ask some one for a manual for the L&T. send me your email address and I will send you one.

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