[Brad Nyman]

i hate to say it, but it is basically tag or nothing in the nj/pa/ny area…

I tried to get momentum going for a briggs l0206 class going a little over a year ago, but it never really took off. id love to start something with the class for next year and am trying to figure out what to do now to get it up and running. njmp used to have its own club series years ago, but management let it slip a little and numbers dwindled. Marco and the f series stepped in and created the state championship series to fill the void, but runs njmp and etown in one schedule. It is the closest you’ll get to true “club” racing in NJ.

all i know, is after a few years away from driving, I’m throwing a lo206 together for next season and hope others follow the idea and something takes off. Tag is too time consuming/expensive for me to try and race a full season at any level next year except maybe a few one off races… BRING ON THE 206!!!

[Brad Nyman]

like greg said, choosing only 3 is impossible, but ill try…

1.   I’d like to see more of a ladder present through out karting, and not a karts to cars ladder. More of a system to go from club to national, as well a ladder from simple classes like briggs all the way to KZ. I’ve always thought a licensing system would work that kept track what you race and how well you did. The better you did in regionals, the higher you can race up the ladder.

2.   less nationals, and more club/state level events. let clubs be the base, followed by a club ran state race. Then regionals, which should be just one series of 3-5 races per region. Make it so there is actually a goal to move up, but you have to get there on talent, not money. finally, a national level with only 4 rounds, kinda like skusa ProTour, one round per season.

3.    No more importers/distributers running things!!! keep all the classes the same across the country, use the same rules and make it so you can race coast to coast with out a single change in whats needed. With no distributers running things, we can get rid or these spec classes and move more to a CIK style rule book. Imagine 5-10 engine manufacturers that all make an engine that is within a tenth of each other. competition wouldn’t only be good on track, but the engines and parts would have to be priced competitively to keep sales up. only tires would be spec, but on a 4 year tender and on a class by class basis.

 

I half jokingly wrote a fictional rule book a year ago with what i think would be ideal, and as the year went on, it has started to look better and better. if only the sport can come together as a whole and look at the big picture, instead of looking at what will happen in a few months. Karting should be a sport unto itself and not a stepping stone. Clubs should have 200+ drivers and nationals only the best 60 or so from each class total, not the other way around.

[Brad Nyman]

look for a chassis with support in your area. it make it easier to be able to run at the track knowing someone will have the parts to keep you running. As far as construction, i would look for a chassis that has a proven history working at masters weights. I would stay away from anything small diameter unless it has a proven history, especially if your just starting out. Small diameter(28mm, 30mm) will work, but it may take more work to get it working properly which if your new, may take more time then you have to figure it all out. I’d say that a 32mm would be what your looking for if your going to be running club races and just getting started just because it is a little easier to use with the heavier weights.

In terms of what class, again start with whats supported in your area. Don’t force yourself into a class of 1 if you can avoid it. If there is a Rotax masters class with decent entries and you would fit into it, then go ahead and run that. but if there is not one offered, then go ahead and find a weel supported class that way you can ask others for advice and information.

[Brad Nyman]

Obviously, You do not under any circumstances change the briggs motor rules. That would almost guarantee that the class is a failure.

I was more interested in knowing what people where thinking in terms of chassis rules and tire specs. I am up for anything chassis wise. It seems the general consensus is keep it open. Is there a difference in performance though, or is it just looks and construction.  I’m a tag guy and even when I ran 4 strokes, it was conventional cik chassis so i have never ran against a laydown seat/full bodywork kart.

 

 

[Brad Nyman]

All of us club guys stay pretty well connected with each other so things don’t stay secret long. Multiple people have called and NJMP isn’t running a club series by themselves anymore it seems. And the half day practices that were cheap haven’t been around for atleast 2 years now.

I know Etown will make a class for 5 people, but it’s getting 5 interested and kicking it into gear is what I’m looking for.

Honestly, rules do not matter to me. I understand that a basic set of rules will work in the beginning for getting a filled class, but I fear in the long run it won’t work out. When I started karting, there was a youth league called hypermoto. The highest class was a outlaw/rwyb Honda gx200 class. It was great until people spent way too much money trying to be the fastest and build the best motor. It ended up being a spending war and it really killed the class and even the series.

Thats why I’m interested in hearing what rules will be best received.

[Brad Nyman]

Njmp hasn’t released anything regarding club races this year. As far as we know there aren’t any club races. But on the chance that there are club races, is like to see Lo206 on the class list. Karting in our area is starting to hurt and it would be great to see cheap competitive class running alongside our normal classes.

I started in 4 cycle karts at NJMP then progressed to rotax and now leopard/x30 with the chance of going back to rotax as well. I’m a firm believer that an accessible class is a must to keep this sport going.

[Brad Nyman]

What would be the benefit of running wka rules vs. sprint only rules? I’m just interested in hearing what other racers think is better for growing a class from the ground up.

Personally, I know of lots if sprint chassis just sitting in people’s garages waiting to be run again or sold to new people, but it’s hard to justify the cost of running tag as a newbie.

One last question, is it better to run a spec tire and try and get manufacture support and have prize packages or a discount program, or go open tire and leave it to the racers to decide what to run. Personally I’d like to see spec tire with manufactures support and maybe even a yearly limit to keep costs in check.

Everyones input would be greatly appreciated so that we can try and make something happen to grow karting again. I’m tired of going to a club race and seeing only 30 people total racing.

[Brad Nyman]

In regards to driving style, its not something you just pick and say thats what you do in terms of style. it takes years to figure out how you like to drive and what suits you. certain karts are more responsive to certain styles than others. OTK karts for example reward a smoother and more precise driving style, but thats not to say they don’t work with a more aggressive style. In terms of the ikart’s my brother and i drive, it equates to different chassis setups to make the kart work properly. My brother is way smoother and calmer vs. i like to drive more of an old school way and flicking the kart into a corner under braking then aggressively turning into the corner and holding the wheel turned keeping the inside wheel up. Both my brother and I run almost identical times, it just means our chassis are set up differently to achieve the same goal.

All chassis can work with any driving style, it just takes work to tune each chassis to suit you and the way you drive.

[Brad Nyman]

It all depends one where you are located. It’s best to get on a chassis that has support in your area. There is no best chassis that is worth seconds a lap. Are some more suited to tracks and driving styles then others? That’s the real question. I’ve found that some chassis are way easier to drive and tune for me than others. But I have never seen a kart that was not workable into a race winning kart.

[Brad Nyman]

Mick put the chassis on pole at robopong yamaha Senior and the chassis is completely compatible with any motor. The ikart with all its features can be set up very “free” which works well in low Hp classes as well as set up beautifully for Tag. We (Force.One Motorsports) have been using the chassis since last august and it has shown phenomenal pace in both tag senior and junior. We also have a customer using it in mini max with great success. I personally have been running in the GearUp F-series F125 class which is Leopard Heavy at 380lbs as well as tag senior. The chassis is fine with the weight. A little known fact is iKart has 2 frame Thicknesses. the Standard wall and “thick” tube which is a special order. I personally have been using the thick and it handles close the same as standard other than being slightly stiffer, but with the weight i have and being a higher center of gravity, it just plain works. iKarts with all the adjustment is one of the most versatile karts on the market right now.

[Brad Nyman]

Yes they are. Podiums and wins at every race we have finished in. Just had fast lap in Junior Tag at GearUp F-Series this past weekend with an end result of 3rd and a 2nd place in F125 (tag Heavy). Chassis is still great and the factory is still making improvements and working hard. there is no sign of slowing down thats for sure.

[Brad Nyman]

Edited original post. What’s listed is avalible and prices are negotiable.

[Brad Nyman]

An older kart can be just as good as a newer one if you can get it set up properly. Its just a case of is the older kart bent or cracked because if it is, then it will handle awkwardly and never feel quite right.

I would pay $4000 max with all the tools and extra motor. And thats assuming the chassis is straight and the rails aren’t worn down on bottom. If buying sight unseen (which i would never do) then max is around $3500. The one thing that worries me is that they don’t list the hours of the motors. Sure there may be a spare, but if both have over 20 hrs than that does you no good.

Heres also some questions for you…

have you driven a proper kart before?

What will be your home track?

do you plan on traveling and racing regionally?

what is your goal in karting (hobby racer, play karter, or serious racer)?

all of these things mayor may not influence if that kart is even right for you.

If you have any questions, just ask. EKN is full of knowledge and people willing to help. i’m also in NJ so if you have any NJ specific questions feel free to pm me when ever.

Brad

[Brad Nyman]

kirt – it depends on what tires and condition of the track.. If its for NJSS on Bstone YLC then start with an 11-76. If on a Bstone YLB, then go to an 11-75. If the chassis is set up right, that should be right were you want to be. If the track is like this weekend and the track is covered in pollen, go up 1 tooth. I only change gear until its within a few tenths of race pace then play with flex lengths.

That is for seniors, no idea where to start an X30 in juniors, only have had junior rotaxs. Hope that helps.

brad

[Brad Nyman]

mike,

That gearing is right around where i ran my rotaxs and the max rpm on those is 14k so that is a perfect starting point.

As for the phone number, i don’t think there is another one to call. and maybe you would be better off emailing the karting manager, Steven Hahn. he should be able to tell you which side you’ll be on.

brad

[Brad Nyman]

Mike,

it will be one of the two halfs, either liberator or avenger. I would call ahead to confirm which side it will be on.

As for gearing, on liberator I would start with a 10-84 and on avenger a 10-81 if you plan on spinning it to 17k. Not entirely sure that’s right as I run x30, but I added a few teeth to compensate. Hope that helps,

 

brad

[Brad Nyman]

Price dropped on all chassis. Everything is still available. NEED these gone asap. Also willing to ship if necessary at buyers expense.

[Brad Nyman]

When I say hard tire rule i was referring to running harder tires like MG reds and Bridgestone YLC and similar tires. It is just an idea to keep costs down and those tires are readily available in the region.

[Brad Nyman]

I hope the class happens as this is what the northeast needs right now. A cheap entry class with good racing and easy maintenance to get new people involved. Clubs are hurting with class entries dwindling and people leaving the sport due to high cost. I’m all for it and hope it works. As for including clones, it could work at first but eventually they should be fazed out as the Lo206 has steady rules and the ability to not blueprint them and to keep it simple for newbies. Using clones opens up the world of blueprinted clones for way too much money and little returns. Just run the class on a hard tire rule and open chassis and bodywork and it could take off. Would be great to see a class of 15+ racing at a time at club level again.

Brad

[Brad Nyman]

Pm sent

[Brad Nyman]

ikart does make all the components on so that they know that they are up to specs. Making the parts over seas is an option, but that is not what they want. iKart wants to be an american made kart, not american assembled, so they make it all. Also they don’s want to have the issue CRG had with their supplier of ceramic rotors stopped making them for a while and they had a shortage. It took some people months to receive their parts. As they said “if you want something done right, Do it yourself”, so that is what they do. ikart is always coming up with new solutions so that also makes it harder to spec parts made overseas if you design something new every few months.

If i break something, i know i can get it. there is no part shortages due to outside suppliers. The karts are still cheaper than all other brands and parts are significantly less than all others. Why ship orders overseas when it can be done in house and perfected for the same if not close to the same price?

[Brad Nyman]

The point of making all of the components in house is to keep quality in check and insure that all off the components are up to par. Also the point of it being cheaper if made in china or italy is a little off. iKart is one of if not the cheapest tag chassis available today. I have been using the chassis in the North east for the past 4 months and love it. So far its proven its worth with 2 poles, a win and a second. Almost had another win if a stupid chain had not blown off.  In my first race ever with it, I was 3rd with little prior testing. Next year is looking very bright and hope to see more wins by iKart.

I know first hand the quality of the kart and its capabilities. The adjustability  is insane and ease of tuning makes it one of the best chassis I’ve driven and worked on.

[Brad Nyman]

I ran my Road Rebel in sr  rotax for a year and I liked it a lot. Being a 32mm it’s was noticably stiffer than the Blackstar and KT1 chassis, but it worked well with the mojo tires and the needs of the rotax motor. It was definitely different in the way we tuned the chassis compared to others on the softer stuff, but never had an issue of the chassis being off pace, only the driver(me). Also it lasts much longer than all the soft chassis and was a little more consistent.

The only  big factor is what track your going to be running at. My home track NJMP usually has a lot of grip so the thicker frame made it easier to not get bound up and start handling weird. It was also fine at englishtown, which is a low grip track, we just had to dial in more grip for that track. If you think you will always need to find grip, go with a softer frame that’s much easier to work with  having grip right out the box and be super flexible.

The last thing is which Class will you be racing in? If its seniors or masters its probably an ok chassis, especially masters with all that weight. If juniors, forget about it as its just to hard a frame.

Sorry this post is so long, but figured I would put In my input having used the chassis in senior max on the east coast.

[Author]

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