[Nate Garrett]

Thanks for the link. That looks like a very useful tool, I will probably get one.

Thanks for all of the advice, I’m really enjoying all of the helpful people in this sport.

[Nate Garrett]

Thanks for the follow-up. I heard several guys say the same thing about flipping the tires. To be honest I have had a heck of a time so far removing the tires from the rims. I have just been having the supplier at the track mount new tires. I need to learn the best method for taking them off because whatever I’m doing isn’t working. I have MG Yellows on Birel mag wheels. I have a bead breaker but trying to roll the tire off the rim by hand seems to be just about impossible. I’m sure it’s my technique.

Our track (google “JRP speedway tulsa”) has 1 long left sweeper and 1 left banked NASCAR-style turn on the north end. Everything else is low speed technical turns.

I had a blast. They run all of the 4 stroke guys together and there are a wide range of engine classes within the race so the scoring is weird – “stock” clone, modified clone, LO206. I’m running mid-pack lap times with the “stock” clone (1 of 2 guys out of 12) and I knocked .4 s off my PR so I was pleased. Especially since I think there are still a few things that can be done setup-wise.

I could use about 200 more laps around the track and then I think I’ll be getting there. I’m hooked.

[Nate Garrett]

Hi Freddy,

The tires were used for 2 race days (about 60 laps total) and 2 practice days (prob another 60 laps total). I should probably have shown a photo of the tires after 1 race day instead of with them that old, but that’s what I had. When I get back home I can put up a new photo since I bought a new set of fronts at the race and they are 1 race old now.

I did manage to get the toe adjusted. It was set at about 1-1.5mm of toe in, so I adjusted the toe to 1.5mm toe out. After I made the adjustment to the toe, I checked the camber again and now it is reading -4mm on the right side and -2mm on the left for a total of -6mm. In the photo I provided it looks like the Snipers are on the tapered part of the spindle, but they are not. I checked again with the snipers moved further out on the spindle, the readings were the same.

I did determine that the Pills that I have are Birel part # 10.9747.00. They have 0 offset so if I want to adjust the camber I will have to purchase either the .5 degree or 1.5 degree offset pill.

Thanks for the advice so far, please feel free to make any other recommendations for a Birel RY-30 (2012) in the 4 stroke clone class.

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