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    • #70384
      Bjork Denil
      Participant

      Please note that I do not feel the rear of the kart “hopping” or having too much grip – although I am not sure I can read whats happening that well yet. It just seems that it takes a while for my engine to get upto speed (i.e., past 7k rpm where the power starts coming on)

    • #45473
      Bjork Denil
      Participant

      And I forgot about alignment tools – preferably the laser kind – any brand is fine.

      Seat weights – I need 10 lbs

      2-stroke oil

      Chain lube etc

      Neck braces

    • #28497
      Bjork Denil
      Participant

      160 pounds

      5 feet 9

      It came with MG yellows and I guess I am going to use those until I know better ..

    • #28343
      Bjork Denil
      Participant

      I can see the videos fine from the vimeo link in my post. Probably someone fixed it..?

       

    • #28291
      Bjork Denil
      Participant

      Thanks guys! Blake from Top Kart responded saying they are trying to have a tuning manual out by July. And I will watch the kracer videos – i have much to learn !

    • #28229
      Bjork Denil
      Participant

      You can buy the armor only and wear a standard kart suit over it. Companies like forcefield and others make nice armor for motorcyclists that can be reused.

      Motorcycle incidents at the track also happen at higher speed, so probably the extra abrasion resistance is needed. Motorcyclists also wear mesh jackets, but these dont last after 1 high speed slide. I think these mesh jackets are similar material to our karting suits but with armor.

      You can also get custom leather suits fitted to you.

    • #28227
      Bjork Denil
      Participant

      F1 outdoors track near boston

      NHKA series in the north east utilizing new hampshire motor speedway road course and F1 outdoors.

      the winter ofcourse limits the season, but kart shops migrate down south during the winter along with the karts.

       

      other tracks much nearer to NYC are ovrp (oakland valley race park), new jersey motor speedway. There is lime rock park road and kart course in between NYC and Boston

       

       

       

       

    • #28297
      Bjork Denil
      Participant

      Top Kart replied back with a standard setup for the 32 mm Speedy chassis.

      Toe out : 2-3mm total

      Caster Top: IN (dot towards front)

      Caster Bottom: 0 eccentric

      Front ride height: big spacer on bottom with the other 3 on top

      Spindle Spacers: 1Big (10mm) 2Small(5mm) inside of Front Wheel Hub

      Axle: Blue

      Rear Hubs: 98mm

      Rear width: 45.5-55 inches

      Rear ride height: Axle 3rd hole down (chassis high)

    • #28283
      Bjork Denil
      Participant

      Hi again,

      I got a response from Mike from topkartparts.com link posted above:

       

      START OF RESPONSE ======

      As far as I know, there is not a chassis manual provided by Top Kart and I am pretty sure I would know if there was one. There really isn’t much difference in how you tune a kart regardless of the manufacturer. The difference lies in the fact that different chassis like different rates of lift depending upon the weight, track and track condition. Even different Top Kart chassis like different setups.

       

      What I have found to be most useful is a series of videos done by KRacers in Australia. They can be found at http://vimeo.com/kracer/videos and I suggest starting with the rate of lift video. It may not make total sense to you right away but as you look at the other videos, it will begin to do so.

      ============ END RESPONSE

    • #28231
      Bjork Denil
      Participant

      Paul,

      I have zero experience racing high performance karts, but I have some experience with motorcycles. What you are saying is taught there. Reasons are similar. You dont want the motorcycle leaned over through most of the turn trying to balance grip and limit acceleration.

      So the sequence looks like this on a motorcycle:

      1) traveling on the straight portion

      2) big push on the handlebars to point deep into the oncomin corner and set the braking line.

      3) reach end of braking line and another sharp input to point to acceleration line

      4) bike is still leaned, hard acceleration at this point which will automatically pick up the bike and set it on the exit/ acceleration line.

       

      in short, get the direction changed quickly, do not lean longer than you have to, so you can get the fat part of the tire working for you when the bike is upright.

       

      so for bikes there are indeed two curves that probably what Paul is talking about. Its above me to say whether it translates to karts

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