[Stu Hayner]

Ryan,

I have a Coleman mini starter for sale. It currently has the MDG adjustable rolling wheel kit on it ($69.95)

$175.00 or $225 w/wheels

If interested, please email or text stuhayner@aol.com or 714 305-6123

Stu

[Stu Hayner]

Max,

I believe that anyone new to the sport should invest in a complete competitive racing kart at first.

There’s too many unidentifiable parts and pieces to assemble one from scratch.

Do your homework to make sure the kart you buy can be raced locally, (even though you may want to just drive it for a while before you jump in to racing).

Karting can be the most rewarding thing you ever do, but if you do it wrong it can be a waste of time and $$.

Start with something semi simple like a LO206, KT100 or KPV. Learn how to drive it correctly and maintain it – then learn to tune it to fit your driving – then learn how to race and learn racecraft, before you decide to buy a TAG or shifter kart

I believe that if every new karter took these simple steps, there’d be more Karters and less worthless stuff on CL.

Just my $.02

Stu

[Stu Hayner]

Craig,

After racing karts for a good part of 30 years, I was introduced to the FreeM Spiders the beginning of this year.

I was given a pair to try for the weekend, but loved them the first session out.

They come in red / blue / black (and more), but red is the most popular (the driver behind can see your hands when you signal)

They only cost $99. and are well worth it.

Give me a text or call if you can’t find them locally.

Stu 714 305-6123

[Stu Hayner]

Hi John,

Bring it down (orange) and I’ll get your old clutch off. I will check in the morning to see what KT clutches I have available. No matter what, I can get you up and running.

Give me a call or text me at 714 305-6123.

Stu
MDG KARTING
1657 N Glassell St
Orange, Ca 92867
714 928-5278 shop.

[Stu Hayner]

Glad to help.

[Stu Hayner]

FYI, I have talked with —– and I believe we are going to get everything worked out next week.

I think there was a little misunderstanding between himself and his engine builder.

I will update when everything is handled.

[Stu Hayner]

Mike,

Give me a call or text. I’m 95% sure I have what you need.

Stu 714 305-6123

[Stu Hayner]

Brian,

Did you ever get this Mychron thing taken care of? I think I may be in the same boat as you on an X30 engine that I just purchased from him.

I’m hoping it is an honest mistake.

I hope to here from him soon.

[Stu Hayner]

—–,

I purchased your engine a few days ago. Could you please contact me about this.

Stu / stuhayner@aol.com
Or 714 3056123

[Stu Hayner]

Matt,

The pictures didn’t come through on my end, but my honest opinion is that if you’re new to karting;

1) stay away from anything on CL. It’s more than likely old stuff that needs more work than a new guy like yourself can handle. If the guy selling it spells kart with a C, stay clear.

2) don’t buy a shifter kart as your first kart. Get something simple and less HP. A good LO206, KT100 or an HPV kart is best.

3) find a kart that is from a longtime karter that’s still in the sport. They will help you with problems and you have a good chance that the kart is straight and is – what they say it is.

4) if you believe you’re going to be good and will eventually race, get a late model kart that can easily be changed to an X30 so you can race TAG.

5) don’t buy from CL / did I already mention that?

Good luck!!

[Stu Hayner]

Jack,

Been away from EKN for a bit – sorry. I would think any local brake relining company could do it.

Also, just post on EKN for good used or even new clutches that someone doesn’t need, would be the best bet.

I’ve run Leopard clutches for 2-3 years w/o issues. In the long run, they aren’t THAT expensive

Stu

[Stu Hayner]

Ok, I understand. I’ve got a few of the original and aftermarket drive gears, but I’ve never heard of a aftermarket Leopard clutch. There’s been a few companies that made “aftermarket” clutches for other brands of engines in the past, but because of politics and rules, we couldn’t use them for racing.

Because the 08 Leopard has lost its popularity (read politics and rules) I’m sure anybody that did make an aftermarket clutch, would be sitting on scrap right now.

If you’re trying to save money, you may be able to get your old ones re – lined. (Too much hassle for most people).

Good luck

Stu

[Stu Hayner]

Jack,

Are you talking about the clutch itself or the three bolt drive gear? (10T / 11T, etc)

Stu

[Stu Hayner]

Robert,

Busy weekend, but I’ll try to dig out what I have and do some more measuring.

Its best to text or email me direct. I don’t get on EKN as often as I’d like.

714 305-6123 to text
stuhayner@aol.com.

Stu

[Stu Hayner]

Robert,

I have a selection of rotors, but the important part is the width and bolt pattern of your hub.

Measure how wide the rotor is
Measure between bolt holes on the hub
What size axle?

No matter what, I should be able to help.

Stu

[Stu Hayner]

I believe I have the spindles you’re looking for.

Send me a text 714 305-6123 or email me stuhayner@aol.com

Stu

[Stu Hayner]

Update;

Jerry’s service will be on Thursday, May 12 at 11:00am

Calvary Chapel
1010 N Tustin Ave
Santa Ana, CA 92705

[Stu Hayner]

Mario,

I’ve tried to email you, but couldn’t get it to go through. I’d like to buy this Mychron.

Please text / call 714 305-6123.

Thank you.

Stu

[Stu Hayner]

Paul,

A Douglas bead lock screw works great.

Stu

[Stu Hayner]

Hitchiker kart stand has been sold.

The new large Tool boxes are still available.

[Stu Hayner]

I’ve got most every piece of bodywork known to karting, and there have been some very light and flimsy plastic as well as some pretty beefy pieces in past years, but most of the newer karts have pretty lightweight plastic.

KarTechna, Birel (Riccardio) and TonyKart (FA/Kosmic) bodywork is probably the lightest (in that order), but CRG, Praga, TopKart, ItalKart (& more) are very, very close, I think it’s more about looks and durability than anything else at this point, unless you’re looking for a few ounces.

Post the brand of bodywork you currently have and what you’re looking at, and I’ll weigh them both.

[Stu Hayner]

“For those that don’t know, a blue flag is shown to slower drivers to indicate them to move off the racing line for faster drivers to overtake”

IMHO, if this is why you would want to use the blue flag – don’t use it.

A slower driver should always stay on his line, but beware of faster drivers approaching, and allow those faster drivers to pass cleanly without putting up a fight. That driver should point the direction (off the racing line) they would like to be passed on.

To me, the only time a driver should move “off line” is when there’s a mechanical problem and he’s waiving his hand like his life depended on it ASAP.

Again, JMHO

[Stu Hayner]

Wesley,

I’m in SoCal, but if you ever get down this way, I’ve got a few options for you.

I’ve got a homemade double stand that works fine, but ugly as heck – $50

A very nice Hitchhiker triple, that I can give you just the double pieces – $400. ($450 for all three pieces)

I also have a beautiful MDG by Lampe triple stand if you know anyone that can use a triple.

Email me for pictures.

Stu
stuhayner@aol.com or
text 714 305-5123

[Stu Hayner]

Hi Larry,

Larry,

MRP is still in business but I believe they are down sizing.

We have been a Birel dealer for over 10 years and will be glad to help.

Send me a list of what you need – I’ll get you a price and availability ASAP.

Text me 714 305-6123 or send me a personal email stuhayner@aol.com

Stu Hayner
MDG KARTING
ORANGE, CA 92867
714 928-kart (5278)

[Stu Hayner]

Both engines sold – thank you EKN many times over.

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